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Help me build a lekke Hardtail


Joe Soap

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The H refers to the stack height in mm. So h12 on the bottom cup means it sits 12mm proud of the frame after it is pressed in. Same with the top that says h8. After it is all pressed an in place it will sit 8mm total above the frame. So lets say your head tube is 120mm and your bottom headset is 12mm, top is 8mm, your stem is 40mm and you want to put 40mm worth of spacers under your stem...you’ll need a fork steerer lenght of minimum 220mm long.

 

Edit: you see the slamset has a H2. Thats as flat as you’ll get...2mm

Ahhh yes, that rings a bell.

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haha.  :thumbup:

 

I have been following it.

i've posted this to death on here but i'll post it again. Here's a silly one i built not to long ago. it has a new home now...but it was hella fun.

 

 

Interestingly, out of all of the uber expensive, fancy, new bikes on here this is one of the few of them that's burned into my brain as its just so rad!

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Quick Update.

 

Parts sourcing coming on nicely.

Headset, BB, groupset, handlebars and brakes in the garage and ready to be fitted.

Wheels, stem and dropper en route from CT

 

Need the following to complete:

- 120-130 Fork

- Something to sit on

- 34.9 seat post clamp (not as common as I thought)

- Pedals (Ideally I would like a set of flats for most days and SPDs for the longer days)

- Tyres - Still undecided if I want to go 2.35 or 2.5

 

Then I can start swinging spanners and take it for a ride  :clap:

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Quick Update.

 

Parts sourcing coming on nicely.

Headset, BB, groupset, handlebars and brakes in the garage and ready to be fitted.

Wheels, stem and dropper en route from CT

 

Need the following to complete:

- 120-130 Fork

- Something to sit on

- 34.9 seat post clamp (not as common as I thought)

- Pedals (Ideally I would like a set of flats for most days and SPDs for the longer days)

- Tyres - Still undecided if I want to go 2.35 or 2.5

 

Then I can start swinging spanners and take it for a ride  :clap:

Go 2.5 on the tyres that extra meat helps alot and it feels like it can go over/through anything :thumbup:

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Quick Update.

 

Parts sourcing coming on nicely.

Headset, BB, groupset, handlebars and brakes in the garage and ready to be fitted.

Wheels, stem and dropper en route from CT

 

Need the following to complete:

- 120-130 Fork - Secondhand Pike usually best bang for buck. Don't be tempted to go with a 32mm stanchion fork even though they are far more common on the secondhand market.

- Something to sit on - Check your LBS's for test saddles. Try, try, try.

- 34.9 seat post clamp (not as common as I thought)

- Pedals (Ideally I would like a set of flats for most days and SPDs for the longer days) - Crank Bros Mallet or XT Trail give best of both worlds. Pedals do go with shoes, though, so look at the whole system. Flat flexy shoes don't go with eggbeaters, and carbon soled disco slippers don't play well with wide platforms.

- Tyres - Still undecided if I want to go 2.35 or 2.5 - Dependant on your rim width 2.5's all day. But if the rim width is too narrow, you don't get the benefit, and can cause instability.

 

Then I can start swinging spanners and take it for a ride  :clap:

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Thanks Blackheart.

Shimano trail pedals confuse me...

Are you supposed to use a flat-type shoe with a cleat hole with those or does any clipless shoe work with those.

I have normal XT SPD pedals and quite XC-ish shoes (the ones with the fixed/hard soles), will they work (and provide any benefit) with SPD trail pedals?

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I have some options for your: "something to sit on" conundrum  :thumbup:

 

I do have quite a few saddles you can test but I know you have lots of other bikes so you may want to go with whatever works for you  :D

 

Quick Update.

 

Parts sourcing coming on nicely.

Headset, BB, groupset, handlebars and brakes in the garage and ready to be fitted.

Wheels, stem and dropper en route from CT

 

Need the following to complete:

- 120-130 Fork

- Something to sit on

- 34.9 seat post clamp (not as common as I thought)

- Pedals (Ideally I would like a set of flats for most days and SPDs for the longer days)

- Tyres - Still undecided if I want to go 2.35 or 2.5

 

Then I can start swinging spanners and take it for a ride  :clap:

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Thanks Blackheart.

Shimano trail pedals confuse me...

Are you supposed to use a flat-type shoe with a cleat hole with those or does any clipless shoe work with those.

I have normal XT SPD pedals and quite XC-ish shoes (the ones with the fixed/hard soles), will they work (and provide any benefit) with SPD trail pedals?

 

I can only talk from my own experience and experimentation:

Stiff soled 'XC' type shoes pros and cons.

Don't require a large pedal platform as the sole provides the support.

They skate around on a large platform clipping in.

Missed clips are scary.

Usually the only shoe/pedal contact is at the cleat, so why carry the extra weight of a large pedal platform around.

Designed for pedalling efficiency, not trail feel. 

Generally don't clip in and out as easily as a 'trail' setup.

Clip in at the start, clip out at the end.

Flatter 'Trail' type shoes pros and cons.

Need the larger platform for support.

More trail feel when descending and working the bike around.

Clip in and out more easily.

Missed clips are not an issue.

Not as pedalling efficient.

Good for 'sessioning' where a bit of walking back up is expected.

 

I've landed on running Crank Brothers Candy 3's, they are giving me the best combo of weight, ease of in and out, and a large enough platform.

 

I have a pair of carbon soled DMT race shoes for the serious mileage days and a pair of Specialized 2F0 for trail and fun days. The DMT are ultra stiff and light and the 2FO's are at the stiffer end of the trail shoe scale, so still pedal well enough but have way more feel and connection to the trail.

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Quick Update.

 

Parts sourcing coming on nicely.

Headset, BB, groupset, handlebars and brakes in the garage and ready to be fitted.

Wheels, stem and dropper en route from CT

 

Need the following to complete:

- 120-130 Fork

- Something to sit on

- 34.9 seat post clamp (not as common as I thought)

- Pedals (Ideally I would like a set of flats for most days and SPDs for the longer days)

- Tyres - Still undecided if I want to go 2.35 or 2.5

 

Then I can start swinging spanners and take it for a ride :clap:

Seat clamp

https://www.custombikes.co.za/collections/accessories/products/seat-clamps-hope?variant=23319640375377

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Thanks a lot but blue is not going to look so lekke...

Other colours sold out

Ah i see now. Sorry bout that

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I can only talk from my own experience and experimentation:

Stiff soled 'XC' type shoes pros and cons.

Don't require a large pedal platform as the sole provides the support.

They skate around on a large platform clipping in.

Missed clips are scary.

Usually the only shoe/pedal contact is at the cleat, so why carry the extra weight of a large pedal platform around.

Designed for pedalling efficiency, not trail feel. 

Generally don't clip in and out as easily as a 'trail' setup.

Clip in at the start, clip out at the end.

Flatter 'Trail' type shoes pros and cons.

Need the larger platform for support.

More trail feel when descending and working the bike around.

Clip in and out more easily.

Missed clips are not an issue.

Not as pedalling efficient.

Good for 'sessioning' where a bit of walking back up is expected.

 

I've landed on running Crank Brothers Candy 3's, they are giving me the best combo of weight, ease of in and out, and a large enough platform.

 

I have a pair of carbon soled DMT race shoes for the serious mileage days and a pair of Specialized 2F0 for trail and fun days. The DMT are ultra stiff and light and the 2FO's are at the stiffer end of the trail shoe scale, so still pedal well enough but have way more feel and connection to the trail.

The pedal thing is giving me a headache.  Ive always used spd , but have always wondered about flats.  So i need to make a call this weekend. If i get flats do i need a specific mtn shoe or can i use an old pair of flat takkies (puma type)?  Also with flats do you guys wear shin guards?

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Go 2.5 on the tyres that extra meat helps alot and it feels like it can go over/through anything :thumbup:

Im chucking 2.6 rekon upfront with Bontranger 2.6 XR2 out back.  On paper they both very light 820g and 760g on my scale?  So TBH im a tad worried these tyres will not last on my very rocky trails, but lets see.  

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The pedal thing is giving me a headache. Ive always used spd , but have always wondered about flats. So i need to make a call this weekend. If i get flats do i need a specific mtn shoe or can i use an old pair of flat takkies (puma type)? Also with flats do you guys wear shin guards?

No shin guards ... touch wood.

 

 

Initially used tekkies ... some work better than others. The part of the shoe that will be on the pedal needs to be LEVEL .... Ideally not too hard, or the shoe slips on the spikes. Some tekkies are better at this than others ....

 

 

All have a lot of flex though, so you loose efficiency ....

 

 

Proper 2FO, 5.10, CR, etc are simply better ????

 

 

Going from tekkies to the Spez 2FO shoes was BIG improvement !!

 

 

PS ... I use Shimano flat pedals on my hardtail commuter

Edited by ChrisF
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