Sid the Sloth Posted December 2, 2020 Share Evening all. I’m thinking of doing an everesting, and I was hoping to find out if I could convert my Supersix’s 53/39 spidering on si sl2 cranks to a 1x MTB chainring, I’m thinking 30t cannondale spidering. The reason I want to do this is because I am running campy super record and my max rear cog is 29, and this seems like a cheaper option if possible than a drivetrain upgrade. If you have any knowledge on the topic, please let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted December 3, 2020 Share Evening all. I’m thinking of doing an everesting, and I was hoping to find out if I could convert my Supersix’s 53/39 spidering on si sl2 cranks to a 1x MTB chainring, I’m thinking 30t cannondale spidering. The reason I want to do this is because I am running campy super record and my max rear cog is 29, and this seems like a cheaper option if possible than a drivetrain upgrade. If you have any knowledge on the topic, please let me know! yes yo can, just change the rings. They use the same interface Sid the Sloth 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringbean Posted December 3, 2020 Share Yip as said just change the chainring.I would however consider something bigger than a 30.perhaps 32 or 34.There is a chance your chain going to be too long and too much chain slack.You don’t really want to have to shorten your chain I’m sure. Sid the Sloth 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid the Sloth Posted December 3, 2020 Share Yip as said just change the chainring.I would however consider something bigger than a 30.perhaps 32 or 34.There is a chance your chain going to be too long and too much chain slack.You don’t really want to have to shorten your chain I’m sure.I would have thought from running a 53/39 I was going to have to run a shorter chain anyway though... save some weights in links #weightweenies Pure Savage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted December 3, 2020 Share Where are you everesting? 1:1 ratio is super light. It must be a super steep hill. I have found when really tired my small/fast muscles get really tired quicker, so spinning actually gets more difficult and I land up grinding a bigger gear as my big/slow muscles aren't 100% ded yet. That being said my current road bike set up is 50?34 with an 11/32 cassette so who am I to judge! hahahahaha Sid the Sloth 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid the Sloth Posted December 3, 2020 Share Where are you everesting? 1:1 ratio is super light. It must be a super steep hill. I have found when really tired my small/fast muscles get really tired quicker, so spinning actually gets more difficult and I land up grinding a bigger gear as my big/slow muscles aren't 100% ded yet. That being said my current road bike set up is 50?34 with an 11/32 cassette so who am I to judge! hahahahahI’ve narrowed it down to three options, 1.4km @ 9.4%, 2.1km @ 8.2%, and 1,5 @ 10%. I like the idea of the 30 because I then I have some extra if I’m not feeling so hot. I’d rather over compromise for the ascent and lose out a bit on the descent. Jewbacca 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ispeed_V Posted December 3, 2020 Share I currently run a 1x11 on my Ultegra crank. Have a 38t Absolute Black Oval paired with a 11-32 rear cluster. Only thing I needed to do was shorten the chain slightly to reduce the chain slack. Sid the Sloth 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pure Savage Posted December 3, 2020 Share I’ve narrowed it down to three options, 1.4km @ 9.4%, 2.1km @ 8.2%, and 1,5 @ 10%. I like the idea of the 30 because I then I have some extra if I’m not feeling so hot. I’d rather over compromise for the ascent and lose out a bit on the descent. Not sure which one is Price drive but that 30T will be spot on. Now, where to get you that 30T for the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pure Savage Posted December 3, 2020 Share yes yo can, just change the rings. They use the same interfaceNo spacers required? DieselnDust 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted December 3, 2020 Share I’ve narrowed it down to three options, 1.4km @ 9.4%, 2.1km @ 8.2%, and 1,5 @ 10%. I like the idea of the 30 because I then I have some extra if I’m not feeling so hot. I’d rather over compromise for the ascent and lose out a bit on the descent. Ja... at 8 to 10 percent it is fair. Rad. Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtypot Posted December 3, 2020 Share My advice would be to go for the one with the most distance. Being repetitive on a short course gets really old really fast. Are those distances complete laps? None of them are particularly long... Let us know where and when you're planning on doing it - having people pop by randomly is a huge help to the morale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted December 3, 2020 Share No spacers required? Nope he's not changing the axle as far as i can tell. The Spiderring is 0mm offset so it should line up in the space inbetween where the 53 and 39 chainrings were.The Spiderring in question is also a NW design so there should be no need for a chain guide either. Should be spending most of the time in the middle sprockets anyway Pure Savage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid the Sloth Posted December 3, 2020 Share Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciate it. If anyone has a 30t spidering lying around, please let me know! I’ll create another thread with more details about the attempt closer to the time. https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/chainrings/442979/cannondale-spidering-30t Thanks again DieselnDust and Pure Savage 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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