Rear brake shudder MTB

[Sloth1987]

Its the 2018 model

[Sloth1987]

1 hour ago, droo said:

I did this to the offending frames, no difference. Worth a shot though, since it's way cheaper than rebuilding a bike.

Any advice different from the general advice given is worth a shot. I think Meezo is setting me up on the right track.

[Sloth1987]

3 hours ago, 117 said:

Meezo, I think, has the better solution above.

Face the frame posts a little, maybe give it a gentle file with an emery board or (not so coarse) file to ensure the face is flush with the caliper mounting faces - also remove any paint residue/powder coating on the caliper faces/frame faces to ensure a cleaner mate of the two surfaces. Dont take too much off as it'll change the angle of the caliper to the rotation of the disc. Also, put a little drop of thread lock on the caliper bolts, and torque to correct spec

 

 

Sound advice. Much appreciated

[Jono]

6 hours ago, Sloth1987 said:

After reading through old posts, none of them provide a solution for my problem with my Silverback MTB

Just to clarify I have already done the following:

Replaced pads twice.

Changed rotors 3 times and they run perfectly true

Changed caliper twice

Caliper is aligned in the centre of the disc.

Brakes are bled properly

No pad rub/drag

Proper bed in procedure followed

The rear of the bike vibrates and sounds like a horn when applying brakes at any speed.

Out of solutions. Is it possibly a frame issue?

 

 

 

When you say changed rotors, have you tried different types/brands? 

[Sloth1987]

8 minutes ago, Jono said:

When you say changed rotors, have you tried different types/brands? 

Yeah. Different brands. Same sizes

[Jono]

Just now, Sloth1987 said:

Yeah. Different brands. Same sizes

👍

[splat]

3 hours ago, dasilvarsa said:

Try to borrow a Wheel.

I was going to blame the bearings in the rear hub.

Mine were cup and cone type and were slightly loose. A bit more attention on the preload sorted that out. But this was back in the days of 26" wheels are QR skewers...

[dasilvarsa]

11 hours ago, splat said:

I was going to blame the bearings in the rear hub.

Mine were cup and cone type and were slightly loose. A bit more attention on the preload sorted that out. But this was back in the days of 26" wheels are QR skewers...

Cup and Cone is Still Widely Used Today on 29er Wheels

[Piernas Flacas]

Have had this issue since you got the bike or only recently? I have a 2013 Silverback Slade 2 and recently I've been also experiencing a shudder on the rear brake but not all the time. I have Shimano SLX (about 2 years old) with the original Deore rotors. Pads are Jagwire (3 months old), which in the past never gave a problem. The hub is original cup and cone Deore which I think it could be the problem due to age.

[The Ouzo]

maybe I'm stating the obvious, but do you bed in the brakes when you change pads and or rotors?

[Newbie321]

Those sola 1 frames are just very susceptible from my experience. As others have stated here, different rotors, brakes etc doesn't matter.

One thing I do remember is that the silverback employee that did the warranty claim for me, put some small weights on the chain stays which apparently helped.

[117]

That makes no sense to add weights to dampen a vibration or frequency on the frame. You'd have to put a fair amount as a thumb suck, or dial it in specifically and be super accurate on the weight and position. 

Excitor beam 1 0 1

How much did he add? 

 

 

 

[Newbie321]

14 minutes ago, 117 said:

That makes no sense to add weights to dampen a vibration or frequency on the frame. You'd have to put a fair amount as a thumb suck, or dial it in specifically and be super accurate on the weight and position. 

Excitor beam 1 0 1

How much did he add? 

 

 

 

Your guess is as good as mine. That's what he said, but he did say a lot of things that never turned out true

Edited April 26, 2023 by Newbie321

[117]

1 minute ago, Newbie321 said:

Your guess is as good as mine. That's what he said, but he did say a lot of things that never turned out true

Then I'd hazard a guess he was trying to bullsh!t you 

[Dicky DQ]

Rear brakes should not be use so hard. Lay off the power and you don't have to do anything. Use the front brakes as you are supposed to.

[dasilvarsa]

12 hours ago, Dicky DQ said:

Rear brakes should not be use so hard. Lay off the power and you don't have to do anything. Use the front brakes as you are supposed to.

Specially When Cornering at high speed on loose over hard.