How to know what cycling shoes to buy?

[Jannes Strydom]

I want to buy a pair of cycling shoes, but really don't know what to look for.

I mostly do gravel cycling/ mtb

Don't want something really expensive

Can you buy second hand?

And how do you figure out the sizing?

Any advice would really be appreciated.

[Zebra]

I want to buy a pair of cycling shoes, but really don't know what to look for.

Comfort, and durability. They MUST fit you well, or you will be miserable.

I mostly do gravel cycling/ mtb

Don't want something really expensive

There ARE affordable options, some with VELCRO closure tabs, some with LACES (and lace-keeper), and these are usually MORE AFFORDABLE than the 'BOA' locking system. If looking 2nd hand, you would have more success with VELCRO-type and LACE-type, than the more-expensive BOA type, my 5c!

Can you buy second hand?

Yes, others will reply here, etc.

And how do you figure out the sizing?

Well, you know your SHOE size, not that much different, b-u-t they MUST fit you well, or you will be miserable. DEF need to be tried on, maybe even a light spin (2nd hand) to CHECK fit/no pinching, etc.

Any advice would really be appreciated.

Lake - and other companies - are finally making shoes for a BROADER foot - make sure your foot is comfortable - cycling shoes are - by design - 'stiff', but should not be uncomfortable.

[Ruben_ van _Niekerk]

I use temu cleats as a racer

5 times cheaper but ig does need some getting used to

[michaelbiker]

2 hours ago, Jannes Strydom said:

I want to buy a pair of cycling shoes, but really don't know what to look for.

I mostly do gravel cycling/ mtb

Don't want something really expensive

Can you buy second hand?

And how do you figure out the sizing?

Any advice would really be appreciated.

Don't buy online, don't buy second hand, go to a proper bicycle shop. Try them on. Make sure they aren't too tight anywhere on the foot - tightness leads to numbness and hot toes. Don't buy the most expensive pair – you will likely hate them and need to switch.

Good luck!

[Max Headroom]

If I can add here... Whatever shoes you look at, a HARD sole is critical in my opinion. Try to bend them, i.e. the toe end up and backwards towards the heel section. If you perceive any 'give' by the sole, walk away.

A bendable shoe is a killer on a bike.  It kills your feet when you apply power, going uphill or when standing;- the back sags down, (heel-end bends down.) 

(the laced shoes are normally 'touring' shoes, i.e. softer sole so that walking isn't a problem... so in my experience, unlikely to be suitable)

I presume you have flat pedals (if you don't have cycle shoes yet)

If you are going to do MTB and Gravel as you say, you must obviously get MTB shoes - and then also going clipless is best - shimano pedals are standard with other cheaper brands and cleats, and often second hand on this bikehub 

Edited January 26 by Max Headroom

[DieselnDust]

On 1/20/2026 at 1:07 PM, Jannes Strydom said:

I want to buy a pair of cycling shoes, but really don't know what to look for.

I mostly do gravel cycling/ mtb

Don't want something really expensive

Can you buy second hand?

And how do you figure out the sizing?

Any advice would really be appreciated.

Measure your foot length (both left and right) and the width. 
 

place a sheet of paper against a wall in your home. 
stsnd on the sheet of paper with your heel against the wall and the paper edge also against the wall. 
drawn an outline of your feet left and right trying to trace the outline as close to your feet as possible. 
measure the length of your feet from the heel to The longest toe and record the measurements for both feet.

measure the width of your feet across the boney outside of the little toe to the outside of the knuckle of your large toe above the ball of your foot. 
 

post the data here 

[Jannes Strydom]

On 1/26/2026 at 2:42 PM, DieselnDust said:

Measure your foot length (both left and right) and the width. 
 

place a sheet of paper against a wall in your home. 
stsnd on the sheet of paper with your heel against the wall and the paper edge also against the wall. 
drawn an outline of your feet left and right trying to trace the outline as close to your feet as possible. 
measure the length of your feet from the heel to The longest toe and record the measurements for both feet.

measure the width of your feet across the boney outside of the little toe to the outside of the knuckle of your large toe above the ball of your foot. 
 

post the data here 

Left: with=102mm, length=267mm

Right: with=101mm, length=273

[Jensie]

I personally like carbon sole shoes cause of the stiffness. Riding spezialise MTB at the moment and don't have any issues with them, sometimes they have nice specials. FWIW, cycling shoes last long and in my opinion invest in a good pair, my Road Sidi Wire 2 is going strong bought Dec 2015. 

[DieselnDust]

On 1/28/2026 at 8:19 AM, Jannes Strydom said:

Left: with=102mm, length=267mm

Right: with=101mm, length=273

Sounds like you’re a regular ; “E”width last (sole) and EU 43 (UK 8,5 left & 9,5 right depending on shoe brand)

this is generally wide fit for both sides 

show brands like Lake cycling or Bint can cater for the size discrepancy between your feet through custom order 

Edited January 31 by DieselnDust

[betaboy]

In terms of sizing, some brands have a chart you can download and printout to get an accurate measurement. As you doing mtb/ gravel, ensure you have a decent size toe box so on long rides if your feet do inflate, the shoes can accommodate this. I’ve found some shoes are amazing and after 4 hours they no longer friends with you. So it might take a few try’s. If you are unsure, but a good used pair and see if that brand works for. Because this is such an important content post don’t cut corners, get the best you can afford and stay away from Chinese Fake promises and don’t be a Temu sucker! There is a reason some brands have been making shoes for close on a 100 years! ✅👍🏻