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Whats the best lube for your shock


JPW#

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Im not sure this is a topic for thehub.  If you go to your local pharmacy you will probably find a selection of lubes for your shock and then you could try a couple and see what works best for youWink

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Stanchions are honed like an engine's cycliners sleeves. This means the surface is not entirely smooth but full of fine, very fine, lines. This retains some lubrication as the seal wipes past it. Therefore, stanchions are lubricated by the fork oil that escapes past the wipers.

 

Riding in the dust leaves you with enough evidence that this is indeed the case, as you can see dust clinging to the oily stanchions.

 

Some of this dust escapes past the seals and enter the fork cavity and floats around in the oil bath. Hence the need for frequent oil changes.

 

Better forks have a foam ring just below the top seals and this catches most of the dust. Unfortunately this dust can damage a fork by abrading the coating and polishing the stanchions - something you don't want, because then they cant oil themselves.

 

As discussed frequently when talking about hubs, a seal that doesn't leak, leaks. Therefore top seals leak a little  bit, with the help of the surface irregularities on the stanchions. A seal that leaks and allows no lube to move past its lips soon burns away and stops making contact with the stanchions.

 

In some low-end shocks, the stanchions don't move in an oil bath and here grease does the job. These forks don't last.

 

Most fork seals are supplied pre-greased and if not, we put a little bit of grease on there before fitting the stanchions.

 

There is a myth, perpetuated by Rock Shox nogal, that Lithium grease should never be used on forks. Lithium, in the form used in most greases, is completely inert and this myth therefore remains a myth.

 

The claim is that "certain" greases will affect the teflon lining on the internal fork bushes.  I've seen no grease that does that. It is also claimed that some oils contain seal expanders that damage seals. Again, these seals and o-rings are pretty intert and nothing other than an acetylene torch at full bore seems to affect them. I think this is a ploy to make us by certain brands of oil.

 

Where grease is required, I used automotive Lithium grease.

 

In my own low-tech forks I use the same low viscocity engine oil I use in my turbo-diesel car. In ten years of servicing them with just about any old oil I can find, there is no adverse effect on seal, bushing or o-ring. The experiment continues.

 

In customer forks I use motorcycle fork oil of the required weight. I'm fond of coloured oils so that I can quickly see if it is contaminated.

 

Most people don't change the oil in their forks often enough. Perhaps because it is such a messy job.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Johan Bornman2008-08-22 02:22:36
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How about never ? Maybe I am vey lucky but my Rock Shock SL has never been opened and it is going on 5 years now . I firmly believe that if you keep you stancions clean , i.e after every single ride your seals will do their job for years .

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How about never ? Maybe I am vey lucky but my Rock Shock SL has never been opened and it is going on 5 years now . I firmly believe that if you keep you stancions clean ' date=' i.e after every single ride your seals will do their job for years . [/quote']

 

 

With the amount you ride since you've become a dad again probably .......
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Nicely put.

 

I've been using automatic transmission fluid (the red stuff) on my foam rings AND in my dampening chamber for how long...

 

2003 RockShox SID SL with Ti cartridge.

 

Cheap and I always have 'slippery' stanchoins... feels like I AM actually floating on air... 

 

 

 
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Most people don't change the oil in their forks often enough.

 

How often is often enough?

 

Your fork manual will give you a ballpark indication - 85 hours is the latest I saw. My fork manual says every 60 hours of riding.

 

This is a thumbsuck. However, just one muddy weekend can contaminate the fork with water. Remember, the seal doesn't seal, so water can also get in. Water in the oil makes an emulsion - milky oil, and is easily spotted by opening the sump plug and letting a little bit of oil out. If it doesn't run clear, change it.

 

I don't go for the "once a year" philosophy since that's meaningless in terms of time in the saddle. The more you ride the more often you should look after your fork.

 

 

 

 
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i have a Trek XTR hardtail which i bought 2nd hand and have noticed that i really have to push down heavily to get the shock to move. turning the lockout in both directions has no effect to the performance iow the shocks don't lock out. can you drip a lube onto the shocks by lifting up the booties?

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.

  

The claim is that "certain" greases will affect the teflon lining on the internal fork bushes.  I've seen no grease that does that. It is also claimed that some oils contain seal expanders that damage seals. Again' date=' these seals and o-rings are pretty intert and nothing other than an acetylene torch and full bore seems to affect them. I think this is a ploy to make us by certain brands of oil.

  
[/quote']

 

ClapClapClapClapClapClap

 

Thanks Johan....gets my vote for the best comment on the hub for '08....
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i have a Trek XTR hardtail which i bought 2nd hand and have noticed that?i really have to push down heavily to get the shock to move. turning the lockout in both directions has no effect to the performance iow the shocks don't lock out. can you drip a lube onto the shocks by lifting up?the booties?

 

 

 

what shock is it because if the trek you talking about is a trek 8900 with full shimano xtr it has a fox terralogic shock which you wont be able to push down from the top because it only really acts as a shock when it feels impact from the bottom

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