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Posted

 

Ok' date=' so kind of on topic, what is the diffs between 2.2 and 2.4 is that the width of the tyre? also is one more suited to a use then the other. eg, why would you take a 2.4 over a 2.2?[/quote']

Tyre width is measured in inches.

2.4 inch = 6.09600 centimeters

2.2 inch = 5.58800 centimeters

 

Basically, you have more volume with the 2.4, so you can run lower pressure giving you more traction and handling without pinching. The wider footprint gives you more grip. Most cross country style bikes can't run 2.4's though because there is not enough clearance between the frame and the tyre.

 

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Posted
Ok' date=' so kind of on topic, what is the diffs between 2.2 and 2.4 is that the width of the tyre? also is one more suited to a use then the other. eg, why would you take a 2.4 over a 2.2?[/quote']
Tyre width is measured in inches.

2.4 inch = 6.09600 centimeters

2.2 inch = 5.58800 centimeters

Basically, you have more volume with the 2.4, so you can run lower pressure giving you more traction and handling without pinching. The wider footprint gives you more grip. Most cross country style bikes can't run 2.4's though because there is not enough clearance between the frame and the tyre.

 

That would be 2.4's on the back though.

Contis historically run small for their published size.

Just to make it more confusing, manufacturers marked sizes are often not accurate.
Posted

 

Ok' date=' so kind of on topic, what is the diffs between 2.2 and 2.4 is that the width of the tyre? also is one more suited to a use then the other. eg, why would you take a 2.4 over a 2.2?[/quote']

Tyre width is measured in inches.

 

2.4 inch = 6.09600 centimeters

2.2 inch = 5.58800 centimeters

 

Basically, you have more volume with the 2.4, so you can run lower pressure giving you more traction and handling without pinching. The wider footprint gives you more grip. Most cross country style bikes can't run 2.4's though because there is not enough clearance between the frame and the tyre.

 

That would be 2.4's on the back though.

Contis historically run small for their published size.

Just to make it more confusing, manufacturers marked sizes are often not accurate.

 

True, the Conti's look more like 2.3's. Actually I have a Tioga Yellow Kirin that looks wider than the 2.4 Conti, and it's a 2.3!

 

and yeah, Normally frame/tyre clearance refers to the rear.

 

Posted

I have only recently started mountain biking again after taking a break for a few years and to me it seems like madness to put the same tire on front and back. Guess I need to get used to it though.

 

I can remember in the 90's all the best tyres were front and back specific and you bought them in sets.

 

I am thinking of:

IRC Mythos

WTB Velociraptor

Panaracer Fire XC (Think that was the name. Could be wrong though)

 

Posted

 

Panaracer Smoke and Dart.

But also elastomer forks' date=' disc wheels, tri bars and thumb shifters on top of the handlebar.
[/quote']

 

Yes that was it. I remember you could get them in a beige colour which was supposed to be more grippier but wore out quicker.

 

Those were the days.

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a Kenda Small Block Eight 2.1 and a Kenda Blue Groove 2.0.

 

 

 

A pic of the Kenda Small Block Eight:

 

http://www.ykkbikes.com/files/SB8.jpg

 

 

 

A pic of the Kenda Blue Groove:

 

http://www.ykkbikes.com/files/BlueGroove.jpg

 

 

 

Which one would you guys recommend using on the front and which one on the rear? And why?

 

 

 

SeanGT2009-02-27 06:36:53

Posted

seanGT' date=' put the small block on the rear. it is a much faster tyre, less rolling resistance...[/quote']

 

 

 

I was actually thinking the Small Block 8 in the front because it will have better corner traction and the Blue Groove at the back because it still has fairly low rolling resistance but will be the better one in mud?

Posted

 

seanGT' date=' put the small block on the rear. it is a much faster tyre, less rolling resistance...[/quote']

 

Your problem then is that your back wheel moves faster than your front causing your back end to overtake you which results in you losing control. Unless you have an articulated frame. Then you're OK.

 

Posted
seanGT' date=' put the small block on the rear. it is a much faster tyre, less rolling resistance...[/quote']

Your problem then is that your back wheel moves faster than your front causing your back end to overtake you which results in you losing control. Unless you have an articulated frame. Then you're OK.

 

The back wheel overtaking the front?? You are saying it tongue in the cheek. Right?
Posted

 

seanGT' date=' put the small block on the rear. it is a much faster tyre, less rolling resistance...[/quote']

 

Your problem then is that your back wheel moves faster than your front causing your back end to overtake you which results in you losing control. Unless you have an articulated frame. Then you're OK.

 

The back wheel overtaking the front?? You are saying it tongue in the cheek. Right?

 

So firmly that my cheek hurts.

 

Posted

Selling a different front and back tire is a concept. Many riders buy into it. I have tried a few combo's.

-Crossmark at the back. Monorail front.

-Killerbee/SB8 back. Nobby Nick front.

-Intense systems2 back. Monorail/Nobby Nic front.

-Race king back. Mountain king front.

-Speed king back. Mountain king front.

I cannot say that one of these combos are vastly superior to another. At the moment I have chosen the Monorail as a front and back tire. The reason? It seems to me that a skittish tire at the front will also break away more easily at the back. Most of our riding in RSA is XC/trail.

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