Fleming

Glad it worked out. Any pics of the finished product?

To be honest the sun reflecting off the top tube was a bit of a problem but only because this bike has a relatively flat surface on top. On bikes with round top tubes it isnt a problem.

My main reason is that I felt sand blasting would leave a satin finish which would mean extra effort in polishing. From pervious experience doing this I know most of the tubes are relatively shiny from the manufacturer so this made the polishing easy. Also, to have it sand blasted would have cost more than the cost for the paint stripper. Unfortunately, I cant recall the brand. I think it was Alcolin but cant be sure.

Looks good. Always liked those old Volcans. Have you checked that the back wheel doesnt hit the back of the seat tube when the rear shock fully compresses? It looks very close considering the wheel is gonna move up and forward as the suspension compresses.

Its a 2 in 1 sensor. We just ignoring the wheel sensor. https://online-bicycle-shop.co.za/products/giantant2in1speedcadencesensor

Its possible. I didnt write the app myself. Ive spoken to the guy who wrote the app for me and he is confidant he is doing it correctly. The sensor only reports 3 things, wheel rotation, crank rotation and battery life.

I honestly have no idea. Im a mechanical person, my knowledge of such things is quite limited but I wouldnt expect the level to reach 100% after so much use.

The machine is such that the shaft we want to monitor is mounted to a assembly that rotates around a second shaft. As such the sensor will be rotating around a different center to that of the shaft we want to measure. Im pretty sure a accelerometer based sensor would get confused. Im pretty happy with the performance of the reed switch sensor, just confused by the battery life it reports.

Does anyone know the ins and outs on how these sensors work? Specifically the reed switch based units with a magnet on the crank and how their battery systems work? The reason I ask is the company I work for builds automated machines and we have a need for a compact wireless sensor to monitor rotation. We couldnt find a industrial sensor small enough but being a cyclist I had the idea to use a cadence sensor. The battery life was a concern so we went and bought one and set up a test with a motor and the sensor and have had it running at 120rpm 24/7 for around 3 weeks now. We wrote a basic app on a PC to log the the signal and battery life. We are a little confused as the battery life the sensor reports seems to fluctuate a lot. It sometimes drops as low as 37% but then goes back to 100% later. Mostly it sits between 80% and 100%. The sensor uses a standard CR2032 coin cell that isnt rechargeable. My theory is the sensor has a coil that generates a current each time the magnet passes and this charges a small internal battery. During use the sensor uses this battery and this is the battery level that is reported. The CR2023 battery is only there to power the sensor during sleep mode when not in use. Can anyone confirm this? The sensor we bought is a Giant 2 in one unit.

Made this yesterday to remind me whats waiting when I get back from my ride.

Mr Min is great for giving your bike that shiny look but dont under any circumstances use it to polish you saddle.

Did you come right? I think I have one that I pulled from a used frame I was given a while ago.

Haha, Hadn't seen that yet. Actually sent that a few weeks ago.

Yeah, Its essentially that, just a larger diameter.

I have a Trek with their stupid knock block headset. If you don't know what this is, your headset only has limited rotation to prevent the fork hitting the frame. Your headset is keyed to your stem via special spacers that lock the top race of the headset to the fork. If you want to run a non knock block compatible stem you need a special adapter which is essentially a collar that replaces one of your spacers and has the correct slots to key into the headset. When I enquired about the price of this adapter I was told, with a straight face, its R750 sir. There is no way Im paying that. I found an old BBB seat collar with a internal diameter of 28.6mm, the same as a steerer tube and spent 45 minutes with a file. Voila, DIY Knock block adapter.

Quite a few things: 2 different seal press tools for my forks Custom valve caps Shimano pedal service tool Handlebar end caps Banana holder that bolts to the water bottle bosses. Hanging tool to dry out my camelbak bladder

As a teenager in the 90 I desperately wanted of these. I think was called the side winder.

Check the seat post clamp on the frame. If its too tight it can compress the bushing inside the post making it stick. Ive made this mistake in the past.

This was popular in 90/early 2000s but haven't seen it in many years. I generally service my own bikes but every now and again I take them in to get something done. I think if I saw a sticker Id ask for a discount in lei of advertising fees.

Thanks. Its actually a 2018. I got bored of the original black color so stripped it down to bare metal and polished it up with updated decals. Ive also upgraded a few parts.

My Trek Roscoe:

You can but its hard work. I used brasso many years ago on a previous bike. Autosol is so much better.

I did this to my Trek Roscoe about 8 months ago. Used the Duram paint stripper mentioned above and autosol polish. All in it was about 16 hours of labour. Definitely worth it. Before and after pics, with a few components changes.

Radial lacing was pretty common on the front in the late 90 when we used rim brakes. With rim brakes the spokes feel very little of the braking forces. With discs, its a different story, they feel all of it. That is definitely not safe.

I see their stuff is specced on a few Signal bikes but Id be curious to know if spares are available in SA.