ridr Posted February 19, 2009 Share How long can a Rockshox SID be expected to last before it becomes pointless to service it anymore? When do I know it has reached that stage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrorider Posted February 19, 2009 Share The upper- and lower bushings of the old SIDs (with thin stanchions) were not far enough apart. As a result the coating on the stanchions tend to wear out fast. Typically just above upper bushing. Once the coating is gone, its going to wear, and deteriorate steadily. New stanchions too expensive to make it worthwhile replacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridr Posted February 20, 2009 Share Oh well, think it's time for a new shock! Found a new Manitou R7 MRD Absolute 2008 80mm fork for $299! Even with shipping and vat, it's cheaper than anything I can find here 2nd hand http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/FK301A01-Manitou+R7+Mrd+08.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighter-Lights Posted February 20, 2009 Share Have you actually bought one and weighed it? I heard those are a heavy batch and they just wanna get rid of them... Apparently, the new MRDs range from 1220g to over 1.4kg for the same fork... I've considered getting one, but I have 2 Sid's of which one is a brand new 2007 Race (1269g) which I've only started using in December...(24hrs of Omni-Motion was it's first ride) Back to topic... Old type Sid's can last a very long time if taken care of... new ones will last even longer...if taken care of.. My 2002 Sid SL : Bought used from Europe in 2005. Replaced uppers in 2006 (was the original 2002 uppers) since replaced 3 sets of wipers. Machined new vesconite air piston (better design, piston springpin can't wear out shaft - old air piston started moving on shaft) I do +- 800 to 1200km offroad per month and slip the lowers off once a month for a cleaning/relube of the foam rings and cleaning of the wipers... Every second ride I lube the stanchoins to get some oil past the wipers... Enduro wipers are much better than stock... will keep dirt out far better and longer than stock ones... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted February 20, 2009 Share I just bought a 2008 Manitou MRD 100mm with V-Brake and Disc bosses. Had it on the digital scale at work, comes to: 1408grams.It's still lighter than the new 100mm Sid's and 80mm are for pansies. Have not ridden it yet, getting my Mtb this weekend.Marius2009-02-20 01:14:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridr Posted February 20, 2009 Share Need the 80mm for my Extralite F1 geometry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azonic Posted February 20, 2009 Share I've got a Judy SL (1999 model) which was converted to Englund TotalAir cartridges mid 2005, so it was turned into a SID as such. I've always used boots on this fork, and today still it is as new. Also got a proper 2002 SID Race Carbon (similar to previous generation World Cups), bought it in 2005. Used to use Lizard Skinz velcro boots on it but have gotten lazy. Both forks still working very nicely. A good idea to wipe/floss the sliders with a rag after every ride to keep them clean. Otherwise keep your eyes open for a set of old Rock Shox boots, very scarse. If you protect the sliders, the forks can last 10 years like my converted Judy SL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissVan Posted February 20, 2009 Share I just bought a 2008 Manitou MRD 100mm with V-Brake and Disc bosses. Had it on the digital scale at work' date=' comes to: 1408grams.It's still lighter than the new 100mm Sid's and 80mm are for pansies. Have not ridden it yet, getting my Mtb this weekend.[/quote'] 80mm and HT for those who ride with eyes wide open I got a Trek 8500 (2000 model i think) still got its original 80mm SID Race, changed the seals and serviced a few times and it still works 100%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtbreath Posted February 20, 2009 Share Why do fork manufacturers not use boots anymore? Apart from the looks (cooler without) it just makes sense to keep those stanchions clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissVan Posted February 20, 2009 Share Cause they just hide the dirt, dust n sh*t still gets in there.Easier to clean and maintain without a fork boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighter-Lights Posted February 20, 2009 Share A boot only hides dirt if dirt can get in.... a good boot design ie. Cannondale doesn't let any crap in... as for the boots on your car's CV joints, Ball joints, Steering rack etc... My guess is that forks come without boots simply because it accelerates wear... Lizzard skins does a good job if you fit them properly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azonic Posted February 20, 2009 Share Beg to differ. Allot less dirt gets in there. If you bomb through a muddy water crossing, most of it will just hit the boot and never get to the seals. Some will, yes, but the most won't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissVan Posted February 20, 2009 Share Beg to differ. Allot less dirt gets in there. If you bomb through a muddy water crossing' date=' most of it will just hit the boot and never get to the seals. Some will, yes, but the most won't. [/quote'] Thats obvious, BUT stuff still gets in and a fork boot is a good trap for moisture and dust which you wont see untill the seal starts leaking oil.... And then of course there is the weight weenie factor, do u know how many grams 2 x fork boots, 4 x straps (to clamp each end) adds in extra weight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighter-Lights Posted February 20, 2009 Share Boots just make sense... just thinking CV Joint boots - they last for years and wont let anything in or out... The mounting ring system on old forks/boots were not very friendly + older boots had little holes for breathing with the compression stroke. Some boots (still see it on entry level forks) use rubber that reacts with the oil and soon keeps coming off the ratainer ring (rubber kinda swells and get bigger) There's a zillion materials and methods to make a fork completely water proof and dust proof today... but why would they... ? pffftt On Sid's... the upper bush is much thinner/narrower than the lower bush.... has anyone ever fitted a lower bush at the top? My duke had such a wide bushing on top too... I think it would make the uppers last longer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azonic Posted February 20, 2009 Share The mounting ring system on old forks/boots were not very friendly + older boots had little holes for breathing with the compression stroke. Correct. The boots I have on my Judy is still the stock ones I got with it 10 years ago. They just about click over the dust wipers, and sit snugly around the sliders. You are going to have to submerge it to get allot of moisture in there. Any nothing stops you from just lifting it up and running a rag over the inside of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted February 20, 2009 Share You can't really measure a fork's lifespan in man-years. Some people ride a lot, others just go to church on their bikes. Some live in dust, others ride tar etc etc. Those forks can be reconditioned ad-infinitum. The only time you should consider throwing them out is for economical reasons and when the stanchions are damaged. New bushes are available and can be fitted at relatively low cost. The top bush is narrower than the lower one for good reason. It receives less splash oil from the bath and it makes sense to thus give it less surface area. If you service your fork regularly and watch out for telltale signs of a contaminated or damaged top seal, it'll last forever. On boots: I think they make sense and should be brought back. The biggest damage to forks comes from dust intrusion. Dust is carried inside via the film of oil that resides on the stanchions and boots can minimise or even eliminate it. Boot breathers are a problem but I think there is an engineering route around it. I like those neoprene socks for rear shocks. When I open shocks I can see whether the shock had a sock or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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