racman Posted April 8, 2009 Share no one seems to want to answer the gripshift vs trigger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrackmind Posted April 8, 2009 Share gripshift, i just prefer it, and so do most of the top riders, watch the WC this weekend and see what people are using. Was my idea in the 1st place though so my opinion shouldnt be counted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreZA Posted April 8, 2009 Share It's personal choice between gripshifts and triggers. GS are lighter and very easy to work. you will need special grips and the rubber on the dials wear out. I had a problem with them when I wanted to jump I use to change gears without intending to. With triggers the shifters are out of the way. Talk to Kiwi again and buy a set of his Microshift grips. They are cheap and compatible with Shimano. If you do not like, it was not such an expensive exercise. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racman Posted April 8, 2009 Share gripshift' date=' i just prefer it, and so do most of the top riders, watch the WC this weekend and see what people are using. Was my idea in the 1st place though so my opinion shouldnt be counted[/quote'] you have a point STM Are replacement grips easily available for grip shifts? What is the size FD clamp needed for teh Commencal STM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bos Posted April 8, 2009 Share I just recomended it for someone els. But unless you have lots of bucks to waist, just get a SLX grouppo, and spend the bucks you save on nice wheels and a good fork, cause they are expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreZA Posted April 8, 2009 Share What is the size FD clamp needed for teh Commencal STM? the same as the seat post clamp. But I got alot of shims with my XT derailleur so it does not matter. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathrix Posted April 8, 2009 Share I replaced my sram grips with the ritchey foam grips. Had to trim the foam grips a bit. Works perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bos Posted April 8, 2009 Share http://www.jensonusa.com/store/build_kit/check out this link.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racman Posted April 9, 2009 Share Ok, I have the following now: 1) Juicy 3 with rotors.(160mm )2) SRAM x7 twists, rd(medium cage), fd, cassette 950-11-32, chainpg971 with powerlink.3) Truvativ stylo 3.3 GXP crank with BB. Thx orbearoca And from singletrackmind: Easton EA70 Seatpost - thx guys. Need to recover a bit and will be looking at a decent fork in a two weeks time - 100mm etc. as well as making a decision about wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoLefty!! Posted April 9, 2009 Share Fpr decent fork that won;t break the bank, get a Marzocchi MX Comp or Pro.Superb value for money at arounf R3000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racman Posted April 9, 2009 Share What are the makes of fork that are easily and speedily serviced in SA? Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwan Kemp Posted April 9, 2009 Share 1) Front derailleurs: a) Shimano seems to ave two types - Conventional and Top Swing. What are the different applications and what do I go for.Commencal's website will tell you. But top pull, top clamp most likely.SRAM seems to only have one type - why?This will change soon. They have more available, just not locally yet. b) Some reccomend a Shimano XT FD with SRAM rear Der - Why?Shimano has a bigger range. And most of the time people spec front der to go wit cranks. I have been running SRAM front der with Shimano cranks since forever and have never had a single issue. 2) Rear Derailleurs - Medium cage, Long cage and then also Rapid rise from Shimano - what goes with what and what should I get?Med Cage. SRAM's rear der works crisper for longer through mud and muck. 3) Crank - I use 172.5mm for road - which size do I get for MTBSame. 4) Stem - Road I use 100mm stem but it seems that most people use very short MTB stems - why etcThis is a tricky one. A lot of factors will influence this. PM me your email ad then I will email you a full article on stem lenghts. Bike fit and use will determine stem lenght. 5) SRAM seems to far simpler design than Shimano but yet far more expensive if you compare top of range items. I would consider SLX in Shimano and X7 in SRAM - which do I go for or are they not similar? (Opens can of worms gently .....)Again, SRAM will work trhough winter better and keep going for longer. Sure you can keep readjusting your Shimano's, but it does become quite a shlep. If you can afford it go with SRAM.I'm riding a SLX crank on my Mbuzi. It is ons of the best value for money and performance for money dual cranks on the market. Nothing wrong with SLX or X7. 6) Discs - what size rotors for fron & back?What are you planning to do? Type of riding? How aggressive do you ride? Where do you ride?160 / 160 should do. Depending on use and the brand you buy. 7) Wheels - I see centerlock hubs and 6-bolts hubs - what gives, why and what should I buy.6-bolt is std, or should I say common. Centre-lock is Shimano attempt at forcing the market in a direction. It's suppose o be lighter when weighing hub with rotor compared to 6-bolt hub with rotor, but what the hell ever. Go 6-bolt. Lastly, my idea of the build - please feel free to comment (although the hub has never needed an invite before but I just thought ....) 1) FD, RD, Shifters - Shimano SLX or SRAM X7/(or X9) - both Trigger shifters2) Brakes - Avid Juicy 7's or ?3) Wheels - What cheapish wheels - need to be tubeless I am told4) any reccomendations on cranks ?5) Shock/fork - thinking of 100mm and possibly the RST that kiwi brings in - comments Please assist as it will be a while before I win the Treads MAg IBIS Mojo so I need to build the HT to last, and plan to do short and stage races (more like tours for me but..). I wait with baited breath ..... Of course any bargain, good quality parts etc available please pm me. Nothing wrong with your build idea. Option could be to run full SLX. Brakes, cranks the works. I would go X7 (or X9 if finances allow) with a SLX crank. Brakes...Juicy's or Formula K18. Formula's will give you MUCH better stopping power. Wheels and fork is where you need to spend your money. SPEND AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE HERE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLDAM Posted April 9, 2009 Share Hi Racman, Congrats on your purchase. A few more info to add to the list already given. The front derailleur is a bottom pull. Your seatpost tube is 27.2. We normally cross our derailleurs' cables to keep them from rubbing on the frame. Enjoy.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwan Kemp Posted April 9, 2009 Share Bottom pull, top clamp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLDAM Posted April 9, 2009 Share Yes, bottom pull, top clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racman Posted April 10, 2009 Share Ok a few more questions here:1) Fork - I have identified the following options: From CRC Rock Shox Sid Race Dual Air Forks - Poploc 2009Genuine Performance in a Light Weight World! Motion Control allows the rider the ability to tune their fork with the desired level of efficiency, yet retain small bump performance. Besides being light, durable, consistent, and easy to service, t ....In Stock Now: 100mm Black - Post Mount3896.28 ZARhttp://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Interface/Offers/Sale.gifRRP 5617.66 ZARSave 20%http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/120/31685.jpgand compared to the RST F1rst from kiwi which also seems a good buy.Are Marzocchi's a good buy in SA - who services? 2) Pedals - what are the suggestions. Was thinking of eggbeaters - any comments? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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