Rear Derailuer Help

[DomJBo]

Hi guys.

 

last week Sunday i fell off the bike a bent my rear deraileur hanger, dad attempted to bend i back and it snapped. So eventually got a new one that fits perfectly and put all the parts back on the bike but now i am not able to shift into my smallest cog.

 

Have fiddled with the High and Low setting but doesn't seem to help.

 

 

 

Please help?

[David Marshall]

Johan Bornman posted the following recently.  Can't find the original post but I did copy it for my info.  Works for me!

 

 

1) Remove the chain.

2) Loosen the cables from anchor bolt on the RD.

3) Screw the barrel adjuster all the way in.

4) Set the Limit screws.

5) Put the shifter in the most relaxed position i.e. shift to the high gear.

6) Replace the chain

7) Re-anchor the cable to the RD but put VERY LITTLE tension in the cable. For a SRAM system you actually have to feed the cable back 3mm or so so that there is ZERO tension in that cable.

8) With your right hand, pedal the bike and get up to a brisk pace. The rear sprocket should make the minimum noise now since the limit screw is perfect.

9)Keep the pace on the pedal and shift up one gear. If the chain now jumps, you had too much tension in the cable to start off with. Stop and redo the cable so that there is less tension.

10) Start with the lowest gear again, pedal briskly with your right hand.

11) Shift one gear up. The chain should now not be on the second-last sprocket but stay on the smallest one.

12) With your left hand start turning the barrel adjuster out (whilst pedalling briskly) until the chain jumps into the next gear. Fine tune it there until it is quiet.

13) Test that the bike shifts into every gear up and down.

 

Job done.  4 minutes flat.

 

 

[INDABUSCHE]

All sounds good, however no need to remove the chain particularly if you are not technically inclined. If there is a speed link then of course - no problem

[Johan Bornman]

All sounds good' date=' however no need to remove the chain particularly if you are not technically inclined. If there is a speed link then of course - no problem[/quote']

 

How are you going to set the limit screws with the chain still on?

[Jules]

All sounds good' date=' however no need to remove the chain particularly if you are not technically inclined. If there is a speed link then of course - no problem[/quote']

 

?

 

How are you going to set the limit screws with the chain still on?

 

 

 

I set the limit screws with the chain on all the time...

[Johan Bornman]

Hi guys.
last week Sunday i fell off the bike a bent my rear deraileur hanger' date=' dad attempted to bend i back and it snapped. So eventually got a new one that fits perfectly and put all the parts back on the bike but now i am not able to shift into my smallest cog.
Have fiddled with the High and Low setting but doesn't seem to help.

Please help?[/quote']

 

The reason could be two-fold.

 

1) The cable is too tight and limits the travel of the jockey to the small-sprocket position.

2) The H limit screw is in too far and lilmits the jockey's travel down to that sprocket.

 

I suggest you follow the list of steps above. If you are a novice, the one point (Adjust the limit screws) is too brief. Let me expand.

 

With the cable and chain off, the derailer will default to the left or right. Usually to the right but it could be to the left. If it defaulted to the right, line up the smallest sprocket with the jockey's top pulley wheel. They should be exactly in line. Even if they are, still fiddle with the H limit screw so that you can see what it does.

 

Now move the derailer by hand, against its spring tension, to the opposite side and make sure it stops exactly underneath the opposite sprocket. Usually the largest one on the left.

 

Now go back to the step-by step instructions. It is easy. do it.

 

PS - I'm flattered that someone copied my text for later use. Thank you.

 

[Johan Bornman]

All sounds good' date=' however no need to remove the chain particularly if you are not technically inclined. If there is a speed link then of course - no problem[/quote']

 

How are you going to set the limit screws with the chain still on?

I set the limit screws with the chain on all the time...

 

Aag nee man Jules! You can't do it properly like that and you need too many hands. Besides, you don't have X-ray eyes to see through the chain to do a proper line-up. Take it off and make perfect.

 

 

[DomJBo]

Thanks guys awesome response, now just need to borrow a few tools. And i'm back to a 10 speed

[Christopher Brunsdon]

 

Johan Bornman posted the following recently.  Can't find the original post but I did copy it for my info.  Works for me!

 

 

1) Remove the chain.

2) Loosen the cables from anchor bolt on the RD.

3) Screw the barrel adjuster all the way in.

4) Set the Limit screws.

5) Put the shifter in the most relaxed position i.e. shift to the high gear.

6) Replace the chain

7) Re-anchor the cable to the RD but put VERY LITTLE tension in the cable. For a SRAM system you actually have to feed the cable back 3mm or so so that there is ZERO tension in that cable.

8) With your right hand' date=' pedal the bike and get up to a brisk pace. The rear sprocket should make the minimum noise now since the limit screw is perfect.

9)Keep the pace on the pedal and shift up one gear. If the chain now jumps, you had too much tension in the cable to start off with. Stop and redo the cable so that there is less tension.

10) Start with the lowest gear again, pedal briskly with your right hand.

11) Shift one gear up. The chain should now not be on the second-last sprocket but stay on the smallest one.

12) With your left hand start turning the barrel adjuster out (whilst pedalling briskly) until the chain jumps into the next gear. Fine tune it there until it is quiet.

13) Test that the bike shifts into every gear up and down.

 

Job done.  4 minutes flat.

 

[/quote']

 

x 1000

 

This post just saved me cash I do not have right now ... could not shift into middle gears the past few weeks. Followed the above and shifting is the best since I bought it.

 

I also discovered the reason for the poor shifting, well actually two. Cable resistance due to dirt - wiped it off clean (remember JB posting the do's & don'ts) and a kink in the cable near the RD.

 

I managed to gently bend the kink. Lesson learn't from my motorbike. If you discover a kink, no matter how harmless it may seem, replace by first pay check. Else you will be stranded 30km from home.

 

 

This was just too easy. Ironically my neighbour dropped off his road bike to have the same done. The time it took him to drive to the LBS and back (1km) was how long it took me to do this.