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Does 2 x 10 = 3 x 9 or even more on a MTB?


George Nel

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Anyone using a 2*10 crank with their 3*d drivetrain? So what I'm asking is can you just change to a 2*10 crank and keep everything else, change the limits on the FD and use just one 'shift on the triple front ....

 

It is a SRAM X9 drivetrain but with an XT FD ....

 

Yes, you can

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Yes, you can

 

Thanks man! just wondering if you have done it yourself? If so what is needed? Is it just

 

1) Fit new crank

2) adjust limits on existing FD (I assume they have sufficient 'reach')

3) Use 1-2 on triple shifter or 2-3 .... does it matter

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Just my 2cents worth.

 

I changed to 2x10 just before the magalies monster. I love the gearing and i am riding a 29er, the "granny" is just right for me. (not the strongest climber) That being said if i were a stronger climber i could always run 3rd or 4th from the top (dont ask me gear ratios/teeth)

 

Would like to change to an 11 at the btoom though as i do find that when things get fast i peddle my mielie off and i did not attend the same school as SwissVan. Spinning seems to push my heart rate through the roof.

Edited by specializedfan
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Thanks man! just wondering if you have done it yourself? If so what is needed? Is it just

 

1) Fit new crank

2) adjust limits on existing FD (I assume they have sufficient 'reach')

3) Use 1-2 on triple shifter or 2-3 .... does it matter

 

Have not done it myself, do have a 2 x 9 setup using an jones modded XTR 960 crankset.

 

1) yes

2) yes

3) yes, doesn't matter

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Flowta - What chainrings are you using for your M960? I'm battling to find anything with a 102 BCD?

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OK so maybe this is just stating it too simply but surely the question for the 'weekend warrior' such as myself is :-

 

Does a 2*10 give me the same 'smallest' and 'biggest' gear as my 3*9 did but with more usable gears in between?

 

On a clown bike with the already bigger wheels I would then ask is this not even more unlikely at least on the 'easiest' gear ;)

 

What TitusTi says seems to make sense to me, that if your riding is pretty varied it may be better to just stay with the 3*9 (hope I interpreted that correctly)

 

#justwondering :rolleyes:

 

I guessthe next question is what are the advantages if any of 3*10 :unsure:

 

 

You got it pretty much spot on, there is nothing wrong with a 3X9 setup, with an 11-32 cassette it gives you a reasonably close ratio cassette as well, so the changes are less abrasive to the legs.

 

3X10 smacks of alot of complication, I can't think that much when I'm riding.

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Flowta - What chainrings are you using for your M960? I'm battling to find anything with a 102 BCD?

 

Got a set made up by these guys

http://www.zorlonisnc.191.it/prodotti.htm

 

Like this but black outer ring and red inner ring.

 

had a 38t-24t set made but ended up replacing the 24t with a steel 26t that I got from CRC and spaced out to the correct spacing with washers.

 

FYI, you can get a 12-36 tooth 9 speed cassette of CRC :D

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Got a set made up by these guys

http://www.zorlonisnc.191.it/prodotti.htm

 

Like this but black outer ring and red inner ring.

 

had a 38t-24t set made but ended up replacing the 24t with a steel 26t that I got from CRC and spaced out to the correct spacing with washers.

 

FYI, you can get a 12-36 tooth 9 speed cassette of CRC :D

 

hmmm photo didn't attach

post-3441-0-57607100-1312188601.jpg

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Dammit!, I've been looking for something like this for a while! Do you speak Italian? How much did they rush you for them?

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Dammit!, I've been looking for something like this for a while! Do you speak Italian? How much did they rush you for them?

 

All communication was in English, spent a bit of time in Italy but can't speak it, but can decipher some things written.

 

The 38t ring cost 36 Euro and the 24t 28 Euro.

 

It cost 10 Euro to post.

 

Next time I order I will order a couple.

 

I think there are some guys in Sweden that can make a Titanium set for you too. Will look for my previous correspondence with them.

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So tonight the tinkering/testing begins :) - so by my non engineering background I calculated that a 39*11 on a 29r is the same as a 44*11 on a 26r .... I would lose possibly 1.5 of the easiest gears ...... Oh well :lol:

 

post-271-0-36882500-1312365071.jpg

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Eldron's advice.

 

Open your Excel spreadsheet. Put together a list of your existing ratios (it's big ring x little ring). Now put together of available 2x10 ratios.

 

Now sit down and design your gearing (limited by what gears are available of course).

 

My short advice:

 

Standard 2x10 that comes OEM seems to nick a little bottom and top end and smooths out the middle. Great if your riding courses without huge climbs and long flowing downhills.

 

Personally I think it's a bit silly. I have a 3x10 set up and have never had issues with the triple.

 

That said - if you currently have 3x10 and you're only changing to 2x10 for fashion, weight or reliability then you're a gubbins. If your 3x10 is worn stukkend and you are forced to buy new and have designed your ratios then there is some logic in it. Still silly I reckon.

 

Knowledge is power - don't rely on "I battled at this really hard race with my 2x10 so I don't recommend you buy it" or "I can like fully turn my 2x10 and it made me 3 minutes faster" style reviews. Rather bang out the spreadsheet and see if the numbers make sense.

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Eldron's advice.

 

Open your Excel spreadsheet. Put together a list of your existing ratios (it's big ring x little ring). Now put together of available 2x10 ratios.

 

Now sit down and design your gearing (limited by what gears are available of course).

 

My short advice:

 

Standard 2x10 that comes OEM seems to nick a little bottom and top end and smooths out the middle. Great if your riding courses without huge climbs and long flowing downhills.

 

Personally I think it's a bit silly. I have a 3x10 set up and have never had issues with the triple.

 

That said - if you currently have 3x10 and you're only changing to 2x10 for fashion, weight or reliability then you're a gubbins. If your 3x10 is worn stukkend and you are forced to buy new and have designed your ratios then there is some logic in it. Still silly I reckon.

 

Knowledge is power - don't rely on "I battled at this really hard race with my 2x10 so I don't recommend you buy it" or "I can like fully turn my 2x10 and it made me 3 minutes faster" style reviews. Rather bang out the spreadsheet and see if the numbers make sense.

 

Jeez just burst my bubble now why don't you :angry:

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Flippen heck okes, just ride the bloomin thing.

2x10

3x10

1x10

3x9

2x9

1x9

what difference does it make, some SS bikes will still out climb all the above.

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Flippen heck okes, just ride the bloomin thing.

2x10

3x10

1x10

3x9

2x9

1x9

what difference does it make, some SS bikes will still out climb all the above.

 

With your legs ja ;)

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Jeez just burst my bubble now why don't you :angry:

 

My bad. I'm just a big fan of logic over fashion!

 

Thats not to say you shouldn't buy it. If you like the look of 2x10 and it makes you feel good then buy it. It's like a lightweight seat post or carbon stem - silly and *** value for money but it makes you feel good.

 

Here's a silly example of 3x10 versus 2x10:

 

I rode the full MTN XC National Series in 2010. I hardly ever used the big ring - the courses are technical and tough. A 2x10 using the middle and granny rings would have been perfect.

 

I also rode SabieX in 2010 - I didn't use the granny ring there at all - a 2x10 using the middle and big ring would have been perfect.

 

Instead I kept my 3x10 on all year long and didn't bother with all the fidlly *** around changing them.

 

A 2x10 set up is great - until you wished you had a longer/shorter gear.

 

Edit: All the roadies are going compact or triple and all the mtbers are going double. WTF? I'm with Dangle - just ride the damn thing.

Edited by Eldron
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