Marius Posted May 25, 2006 Share Oij, I'm having a real hard time setting up my gears. Only a few are working. The problem is I don't know which screw to turn so that I can reach my small geartjie, look at the pic. It's on it's Big gear now, if I turn "C" I think the chain jumps into the spokes, so I can't turn that one. As far as I can tell "B" does f*k-all and "A" seems to be stripped. As for D and E, yesss, I screwed them all the why in and all the way out and they also do nothing.. So all I want to know is which one should I turn so I can reach my "hardest" gear, the one that's the smallest on the cog-thing-y? uploads/Marius/images/2006-05-25_120110_05-25-06_0642.jpg uploads/Marius/images/2006-05-25_120124_2.jpg uploads/Marius/images/2006-05-25_120138_3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatcyclist Posted May 25, 2006 Share Pay your LBS for a decent service to do it smileys/smiley2.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted May 25, 2006 Share sooooo fatty I take it you also don't knowsmileys/smiley36.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatcyclist Posted May 25, 2006 Share I take it to my LBS and let them worry about it smileys/smiley2.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted May 25, 2006 Share I normally do that fatty but I can't this week since I'm not coming in with my Car, just tell me which screw to turn 4f'sake!!!! ps. are you checking how clean my chain is???smileys/smiley4.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbp2007 Posted May 25, 2006 Share http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.htmlWorked for me.B and C seem to be your limit stops for the rear. D/E you can forget for the moment, as long as the chain is able to move to smallest/biggest sprocket without hindrance. Ensure before you jump to conclusions that You haven't bent the RD or its hanger;Your cables are tight when they should be and slack when they should be;Your FD hasn't slipped and changed position, making it hard for the chain to reach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velouria Posted May 25, 2006 Share hehehehehe Don't be so cheap Marius - take it to the LBS, or buy a book. Ideally - A is the one you want, but if you have stripped it, then you are going to have adjust the cable on the shifters. B, C, D, E limit the deraleurs on the top and bottom so that the chain doesn't come off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linnega Posted May 25, 2006 Share Marius - B and C are you limit stops. The one stops the chain from jumping into the spokes, the other from jumping of the smallest cog onto your frame.Adjusting the settings is done by either tightening the cables, or by turning the adjustment barrel. This effectively lengthens/shortens the cable housing (the plastic and metal around the cable). Use the Sheldon Brown method - it is pretty straightforward. Don't worry if you don't get it right at first, it takes a little practice and patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted May 25, 2006 Share A, I did not strip the damn thing, I've never touched the damn thing, it was stripped when I saw it for the first time this morning!!!smileys/smiley18.gifThx php and Linnega, will print the Sheldon Brown method outsmileys/smiley4.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted May 25, 2006 Share think this is the problem: Difficulty in upshifting to the smallest rear sprocket is rarely caused by misadjustment of the high-gear limit screw. More often it results from the derailer being bent, or from excess friction in the cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudsimus Posted May 25, 2006 Share Upgrade to SRAM and you'll never have any sh*t! Much less maintanance needed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irishj9 Posted May 25, 2006 Share So all I want to know is which one should I turn so I can reach my "hardest" gear' date=' the one that's the smallest on the cog-thing-y?[/quote'] smileys/smiley4.gif Are you guys SURE you want Marius to have access to his 11 on Sunday?.....Just a thoughtsmileys/smiley2.gif..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted May 25, 2006 Share mmm, nice on Irish. I've not had that 11 for a very long time, but I'll make sure it's working on Saturdaysmileys/smiley36.gif SRAM sounds nice Mud-e, will have to find out were and how much first and then save up and wait for Chris to Undercut the pricesmileys/smiley9.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatcyclist Posted May 25, 2006 Share Marius: due to limited budget I just put SRAM X.7 shifters and rear mech on my bike, and must say it's been a pleasure!! Front I use a universal mount black Deore mech and chain and cluster is SRAM. Only had to have it adjusted once since the bike was built in December, when the cables stretched in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted May 25, 2006 Share Got both. Specialized FSR XC - SRAM X9 triggers / X7 RD, XT FD (only because my Specialized FS frame can't take the SRAM FD) - works like a charm, no adjusting necessaryFuji Mt Fuji Pro - Shimano XT triggers / XT RD, SRAM FD (bought the wrong friggin thing for the Specialized so decided to use it anyway!) - works like a charm, little adjusting necessaryLike I think I have stated before, look after it and most things will do the job they were intended for. Couldn't get used to that friggin Rapid Rise XTR RD though so went back to the 'normal' XT RD and now I am happy as the proverbial 'pig in ....' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWdeJager Posted May 25, 2006 Share Fatty, how much (approx) is an SRAM 8speed jockey? Mine is bent and I am probably going to have to get it replaced soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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