Which MTB drive train?

[mountain_lion]

 

 

When I bought my Giant Anthem beginning of the season, budget did not allow the Anthem 1, so I went for the Anthem 2, reasoning that  I can upgrade components with time as needed.

 

Well, 850km later the chain is almost 1% worn and I damaged 2 teeth on the big chain ring. (muddy cape winter, doing most of the long route PPA MTB events).

 

Bike came with Race Face Ride XC cranks on Race Face SRX BB.

Derailleurs & shifters are Deore LX.

 

So what do I do?

Replace chain and big ring and see if cassette is still OK?

or replace complete crank set?

or replace complete drive train?

 

At 90kg, I exert considerable force on a drive train and am more concerned about durability of my bicycle components than their weight.

I ride MTB for fun rather than competition (usually finish middle of the field).

Budget is still not unlimited, but I will look at the longer term economics rather than the cheapest quick fix.

 

Thank you for your recommendations!

 

mountain_lion2007-08-06 16:52:27

[dirtrider]

Stay with LX . It is durable and "cheaper" . Normally I would say replace the lot but with only 800km on you should run out and get all you measuring tools to check the blades . You most probably find you granny looks almost brand new . I have read your other posting and would like to know how do you blokes get the DT in that state after only 800km . Maybe I am just lazy and don't pump the pedals hard enough !?

[Dicky DQ]

DR it is the Weight, the bloody weight man. you have no idea what force needs to go through the drivetrain when you are 90Kg+. Then you add a bit of mud and grit and there you have it. somtimes only 300km is all you caqn expect in muddy conditions.

 

I see you are in GT, come spend some time down in good old wet CT sometime and see how long your DT lasts.

[dirtrider]

That is where I started my cycling ! Been up in Gangsters paradise bout 2 - 3 years now . It is also because I don't really change gears that often !

[Tumbleweed]

sound advice, dr

[Ivanb]

I would say of course look at the Rotor Agilis Cranks, SABB and q rings. www.impressions.co.za

[mountain_lion]

 

 

Stay with LX . It is durable and "cheaper" . Normally I would say replace the lot but with only 800km on you should run out and get all you measuring tools to check the blades . You most probably find you granny looks almost brand new . I have read your other posting and would like to know how do you blokes get the DT in that state after only 800km . Maybe I am just lazy and don't pump the pedals hard enough !?

 

As Dick said: heavy rider, huge power, steep gradients + mud = short DT life.

 

LX was my thinking too. There is nothing wrong with the derailleurs & shifters anyway. Used LX on my previous bike too. No problems.

 

But what about the crank set?

I have damaged the big chain ring on a rock. It is still working after I straightened the 2 teeth, but not a good idea to keep using as is.

I am not very impressed with the BB (cartridge type) - already has some stiff spots, but will still be good for a while; as you say 850km is not a lot.

 

So do I replace big ring and chain only now and look at crank set when BB is worn?

 

mountain_lion2007-08-07 01:46:00

[mountain_lion]

Oh, and regarding the chain: any specific type / brand to get?

 

 

[dirtrider]

The BB must be treated seperate from the rest of the DT . There also stick with LX . SRAM chains will do .

[Willehond]

Mountain lion,

 

OK, you asked for my 2cents, so here goes.  I don't have as much experience as some of the spanner heads on here, but here is my LX experience:

 

My bike is just over two years old wth LX components and I have gone through two cassettes and four chains.  Both times the chain was still below 1%, but the cassette was gone!  Believe me, an LX cassette (or similar SRAM or even Deore) is a lot cheaper than the higher end ones and with us big boys, it does not make sens to save a couple of grams as you will be killing it sooner than the anorexics!!!

 

I suggested to my LBS that I might need to change my front chain rings as well, but my ignorance was met with blank stares of "What do you know?"  Anyway, it seems that you don't really kill your front blades that easily.  My BB did die however and after the Krakadouw fall my headset was also mothered, but the bill was a lot smaller than what it would have been with XTR!  The  original BB did not have sealed bearings which I think contributed to its downfall, so I upgraded that, but for the rest of my components; no complaints!  Can't think why you would want to replace you crankset (despite what the salesman like IvanB says - he is trying hard to sell his stuff)

 

I have decided that the best place for me to spend money on is a good wheelset.  In fact, I wish I had your frame and wheels!  I want a light tubeless wheelset with Stans.  THAT will make my ride a lot sweeter!

[wonduhboy]

so how exactly do you know when your cassette and chain rings are worn? I know you can measure the chain, but the rest...?

[Willehond]

so how exactly do you know when your cassette and chain rings are worn? I know you can measure the chain' date=' but the rest...?[/quote']

 

When you put on a new chain and the gears jump when you put power into the stroke, your cluster is gone! Been there done that...

 

Just make sure it's not your gear indexing first.

 

 

[mountain_lion]

Yip, chain rings do not wear as fast as cassette, but because of my riding style I did go through a few on my previous bike over the years.

 

I am not falling for the Q-ring marketing story! Will not make a difference on my level of riding in any case; my money is better spent elsewhere.

 

My thinking is that the BB must be subject to enormous forces from a 90kg rider. Might be worth it to go for quality there.

Unfortunately with cycling components higher price does not always buy "better quality". It might buy lighter weight, but we all know lighter weight is usually traded off against strength and durability.

 

Will speak to my LBS as well and see what they say (and the other expert Hubbers who are still to add their opinions here), but it seems like new big blade and chain is the solution for now.  Change BB later when shot.

 

 

[Johan Bornman]

My thinking is that the BB must be subject to enormous forces from a 90kg rider. Might be worth it to go for quality there.
Unfortunately with cycling components higher price does not always buy "better quality". It might buy lighter weight' date=' but we all know lighter weight is usually traded off against strength and durability.

Will speak to my LBS as well and see what they say (and the other expert Hubbers who are still to add their opinions here), but it seems like new big blade and chain is the solution for now.  Change BB later when shot.

[/quote']

 

Just fit a new chain. If the chain skips over the sprockets, replace those. Your big blade sounds fine and will be good for many thousands of kilometers to come.  You'll know when the big blade needs replacement - when the chain either just slides over it or it chainsucks even when clean and lubricated.

 

BBs don't destruct from strong riders, they destruct from dirt ingression. If the bearing is well lubricated and sealed, it'll last far longer than you think, no matter what you weigh.

 

 

 

[mountain_lion]

 

 

 

 Just fit a new chain. If the chain skips over the sprockets' date=' replace those. Your big blade sounds fine and will be good for many thousands of kilometers to come.  You'll know when the big blade needs replacement - when the chain either just slides over it or it chainsucks even when clean and lubricated.

 

BBs don't destruct from strong riders, they destruct from dirt ingression. If the bearing is well lubricated and sealed, it'll last far longer than you think, no matter what you weigh.

 

 

[/quote']

 

OK, so JB says chain only & DR recommends SRAM chain.

 

 

 

Will try that. Perhaps get a power link for the chain as well.

 

 

 

Will have another look at the 2 damaged teeth on the big ring to make

sure they are OK. Guess that as long as the edges that engage the chain

are smooth, chain wear will not be accelerated.

 

Wonder if light filing will be in order if there are burs / rough edges?

 

I agree that dirt is a BB's worst enemy, but I opened up the old style BB on my communting bike used as a student (on road only) a few times to find the axle running on disintegrated pieces of bearings.

 

The Race Face SRX BB I have now is a sealed cartridge type, which means I just have to trust the design. Can't even open and clean after a particular muddy ride or deep river crossing. I took out the BB recently just to see what was happening in there, but this seems to be a waste of time. Found almost no dirt inside the BB housing (between frame and cartridge) and there is a hole in the frame for water to drain.

 

Are these use and dispose BBs the way to go these days?

 

mountain_lion2007-08-07 04:04:29

[Tumbleweed]

mountain lion, i've heard that water can work it's way into the bb threads, which can cause a creaking noise under heavy pedalling. been told that plumbing tape can stop this.