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Posted

Hi all

 

In my stupid search for bling and lightweight I used A2Z Ti disk rotor bolts on my AC hub and Formula rotor(rear wheel) and I see that one is missing after the Beast of the East race.

 

Was it just not fastened correctly or is this something that happens with Ti bolts.

Guessing I should have had the mechanic put loctite on ?

 

Thanks,

WW.

Posted

why you worrying: it's lighter!!!

 

Coz the bolts arent cheap !

Well IMO there are 6 bolts for a reason, unlike Suzi that uses 3, but if they start falling out we have a bit of a problem ,no matter how many bolts I have.

Posted

those bolts should have loctite or thread lock on them for sure.

 

you will notice OEM bolts normally have some blue substance on the thread, this is not stop them from rattling loose and making you take another trip to your LBS.

 

i lost an A2Z chain ring bolt on a ride this am. so irritating.

Posted

Coz the bolts arent cheap !

Well IMO there are 6 bolts for a reason, unlike Suzi that uses 3, but if they start falling out we have a bit of a problem ,no matter how many bolts I have.

 

I have seen a few guys use 3 bolts...@#$%^& stupid if you ask me.

Do the Ti bolts not have the blue rubber like standard bolts do?

 

Like this

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Original/46286.jpg

Posted

I have used only 3 bolts for as long as I can remember. Geoff Kabush uses 3 bolts, as does Ned Overend.

 

"Those replacement rotor bolts may be steel, but there are still only three of them per rotor. "Yeah, just three rotor bolts; I mean, Eric Carter runs three bolts. I figured if it's good for those guys, it's no problem."

 

http://autobus.cycli...cialized_epic07

 

http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/photos/2007/tech/probikes/ned_overend_specialized_epic07/Ned_Overends_Specialized_S-Works_Epic_Iceman_rear_rotor.jpg

Posted

i run 4, because i had 4. i would stop at 3. lowest. dont strictly speaking need 6, unless u dont know hwo to torque thema nd lose them like breadcrumbs along in a race :P

WW: u check the other bolts for torque and whether there is some loctite on them?

Posted

I'm freethinking here, but the reason I ask for the material is the following figures for coefficient of expansion of various metals generally used in brake components:

Material: coef of thermal expansion [10-6 in./in.*/°F]

Aluminium: 12,3

Steel: 7.3

Titanium: 4.8

Aluminium and it's allows: 13.7 - 11.7

alloy steels: 8.6 - 6.3

Titanium and it's alloys: 7.1 - 4.9

 

Generally means that titanium expands less than steel, and much less than aluminium. The source of the heat to the bolts and hub would come from the rotor (thinking extended braking conditions, long descent maybe). So the holes in the hub get a bit big as the hub material expands more than the bolts. Bolts may then rattle loose. As I said, just freethinking.

Posted

I know my normal bolts come with loctite, the Ti does not.

I had the lbs fit them, unsure if they put loctite on but seeing as it fell out I doubt it.

Will have to fit loctite and check torque.

 

Cap: American classic hub and formula lightweight rotor, so afik alu both alu.

Posted

hmm, both alu.. but check for the loctite first. LBS should have put some on even if they didnt ship precoated. Norty LBS if they didnt..

just reread the thread title: just one bolt. might be the one someone forgot to tighten a bit. Hope it's as simple as that.

 

 

NB: there seems to be some debate around using loctite or antiseize with Ti bolts into aluminum, and items you will service often. Maybe that's why the dont ship them with blue loctite to begin with. Apparently, some concern when using loctite is that it's not effective combating galvanic corrosion or galling between Ti and AL, making it painful to remove the item later as the bolt may have seized.

 

Not sure of J Bornman has more practical experience in these matters.

Posted

Oh and I see the Ti bolts are shorter than the normal bolts so they dont come out of the hub at the back, but as long as they are tight that should not be an issue ?

 

Kom ons wag en kyk wat sê Johan B)

Posted

hmm, both alu.. but check for the loctite first. LBS should have put some on even if they didnt ship precoated. Norty LBS if they didnt..

 

They do tend to screw up, even certain trained mechanics that one pays a few K does not do a proper job and then does not reply to mails after the service.

Yes the onus is on me to check things, but whats the point of paying them then ?

 

Any way this isnt a lbs rant thread so back to the topic.

I just need to start buying tools and a book and do stuff myself, thats all there is to it.

as the saying goes, if you want something done right....

Posted

They do tend to screw up, even certain trained mechanics that one pays a few K does not do a proper job and then does not reply to mails after the service.

Yes the onus is on me to check things, but whats the point of paying them then ?

 

Any way this isnt a lbs rant thread so back to the topic.

I just need to start buying tools and a book and do stuff myself, thats all there is to it.

as the saying goes, if you want something done right....

 

I bought that brand X tool kit from CRC,been waiting months for it.Stripped and cleaned my Mtb this morning.Greased it all up to.

I need loads of practise with the gear setting though.Some good videos arround and easier to learn from than a book.

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