Shimano Xt hub parts

[marshace]

Hi

 

Where can I get Shimano Xt hub parts ?

Most bike shops say they will find out but never get back to you.

 

Looking for FH-M775 rear hub " Lefy Hand Lock nut (M14) & Cone (M14) with dust cover" - part number Y-3D0 98060

 

Mine is pitted and you can feels it's rough as you rotate it. Not sure how this happened.

 

Is it same as the other side ? Not indicated as spare part on attached spares list.

Are they interchangeable ?

 

Refer Item no 6 on attached parts listing.

Seem crazy to have to rplace a hub just becuase of this !!

 

Can anybody out there help ? PLEASE !!!

 

thx

Eric

EV-FH-M775-2700A_v1_m56577569830646671.pdf

[AndreZA]

I'm so peed off with Coolheat. They don't stock small parts. After I've mailed them and they sayed it's comming in two weeks they sayed no sorry, they are not gonna stock it anymore. Okay I'm talking about other small parts, not the cone and nut you are looking for.

[BenDL]

I also needed this for my XT factory wheelset.

 

I managed to buy this part from an LBS.

Was about R130. (that is not a typo!)

 

Alternative buy the whole hub, aprox R600. Then you have all the other seals and stuff as well...

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=20800

[Carrot]

I messed up the bearings in my XT rear hub and they told me i had to replace the whole thing for R600 + labour which i did, but i'm sure i could have just bought the bearings and replace them for a tenth the price...

[Johan Bornman]

A couple of issues are at play here.

 

Firstly, those parts are in short supply from Shimano. I mean Shimano Japan, not Coolheat. Coolheat has had them on order since June and have been messed around by Shimano month after month. The latest arrival date is December.

 

I'll say this for Coolheat, they do stock small parts. If you look at their small parts list, it is HUGE. Further they receive stuff from Shimano almost every week, so it is not a case of waiting for a container to fill up etc.

 

I suspect there was a problem at the Shimano Cone Plant (if there is such a thing).

 

Secondly, yes, these things are expensive and sometimes a supplier blushes when he has to say the price out loud. I know I do. Other times little parts like these are cheap (I bought something udner R15 from Campag today which is somewhat of a world record), but the shipping of anything between R60 and R100 seems to spoil the initial pleasure of hearing that part is only R15-00.

 

You can mess up a Shimano hub. That's the downside of an otherwise fine design. If you neglect it too much, you damage the cups and then the hub is kaput. Shimano hubs are not for mechanical klutzes.

 

I suspect Shimano will soon either offer replaceable cups or move to cartridge bearings. I hope not the latter.

 

Some of the newer Shimano hubs don't offer the cone as a separate spare part, you have to buy the entire axle assembly. This sucks. The M775 in question is such a model. If you eventually overhaul your 775, asio replace the seal ring (part 11). It has a tiny lip that wears and then allows water in.

 

 

I suggest you simply make sure the balls are good and then perform a service and ride it. You won't damage the cups if the cones are pitted, but if the balls are square, you may.

 

Dont complain too much, GT has some lower-end bikes specc'd with Novatech hubs for which you cannot get parts in ZA. Omnico wiped its arse on those customers and simply shrugs. At least Coolheat tries.

[bikemonster]

 

I suspect Shimano will soon either offer replaceable cups or move to cartridge bearings. I hope not the latter.

 

 

As ever, an interesting quote from you, Johan, and almost as ever, one that contains something that yells for a question: why?

 

I don't have a fierce opinion backed up waiting for your response, I'm just interested to know why you hope Shimano do not move to cartridge bearings?

[Johan Bornman]

As ever, an interesting quote from you, Johan, and almost as ever, one that contains something that yells for a question: why?

 

I don't have a fierce opinion backed up waiting for your response, I'm just interested to know why you hope Shimano do not move to cartridge bearings?

 

I have no insider information, I just think that the tidal wave of fancy after-arket cartridge hubs must hurt its business and there comes a time, even in a behemoth's life, where going with the flow is the only option.

 

Why do I hope they don't do it? I like cup-and-cone hubs and the fact that they can be serviced using two cone spanners and a bit of lard.

 

Perhaps I'm just nostalgic, old fashioned or retarded, but I think it will be sad to see the last bastion of cup-and-cone succumb to satan. Campag still does cup-and-cone but I suspect it is on its last legs too, with Fulcrum in the stable, on cartridge bearings.

[javadude]

I'd also like to know why for interest sake. Both Campag and Shimano use cup/cone bearing on their better quality hubs, so there must be some merit to these as opposed to cartridge bearings.

[Zeps]

 

Some of the newer Shimano hubs don't offer the cone as a separate spare part, you have to buy the entire axle assembly. This sucks. The M775 in question is such a model.

 

Is the same true for M756?

[marshace]

I'd also like to know why for interest sake. Both Campag and Shimano use cup/cone bearing on their better quality hubs, so there must be some merit to these as opposed to cartridge bearings.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Seems like I am not the only one to battle with this.

I do like the cones and bearings as they are easy to service and you can replace balls for a very small cost.

For now I just service regularly, ride with the cones slightly looser than normal.

 

I will keep on looking for spares, any contacts in the UK ?

[Johan Bornman]

Is the same true for M756?

 

Dunno, go to the link above, search for that model and see if it has a separate part number in the exploded view.

[Johan Bornman]

Thanks for all the replies. Seems like I am not the only one to battle with this.

I do like the cones and bearings as they are easy to service and you can replace balls for a very small cost.

For now I just service regularly, ride with the cones slightly looser than normal.

 

I will keep on looking for spares, any contacts in the UK ?

 

 

If you find an online source that has stock, let us know. I have many of these wheels waiting for their cones. However, the issue is worldwide so I'm not holding my breath.

 

For those of you who are interested, I have a small stock of Grade 5 balls for these wheels. I'll only install them with good cones though, otherwise you're putting caviar sauce on boiled cabbage.

 

Grade 5 steel balls are as round as ceramic balls but without the super hardness that damages steel races.

 

Standard Shimano balls are Grade 20 and the stuff you buy at Bearing Man is Grade 100.

 

The "grade" is simply the maximum error on the ball expressed in microns. In other words, a grade 5 ball has an error of no more than 5 millionth of an inch. Grade 100 balls by comparison are rough.

[marshace]

If you find an online source that has stock, let us know. I have many of these wheels waiting for their cones. However, the issue is worldwide so I'm not holding my breath.

 

For those of you who are interested, I have a small stock of Grade 5 balls for these wheels. I'll only install them with good cones though, otherwise you're putting caviar sauce on boiled cabbage.

 

Grade 5 steel balls are as round as ceramic balls but without the super hardness that damages steel races.

 

Standard Shimano balls are Grade 20 and the stuff you buy at Bearing Man is Grade 100.

 

The "grade" is simply the maximum error on the ball expressed in microns. In other words, a grade 5 ball has an error of no more than 5 millionth of an inch. Grade 100 balls by comparison are rough.

 

Thanks Johan

Your replies are always very informative and usefull.

Regards

Eric

Edited October 14, 2010 by marshace

[CaptainDura]

If you find an online source that has stock, let us know. I have many of these wheels waiting for their cones. However, the issue is worldwide so I'm not holding my breath.

 

For those of you who are interested, I have a small stock of Grade 5 balls for these wheels. I'll only install them with good cones though, otherwise you're putting caviar sauce on boiled cabbage.

 

Grade 5 steel balls are as round as ceramic balls but without the super hardness that damages steel races.

 

Standard Shimano balls are Grade 20 and the stuff you buy at Bearing Man is Grade 100.

 

The "grade" is simply the maximum error on the ball expressed in microns. In other words, a grade 5 ball has an error of no more than 5 millionth of an inch. Grade 100 balls by comparison are rough.

 

 

Johan

 

How do you know your cones/cups are damaged and know not to just replace the bearings but the cones/cups as well.

 

if i know this i will know whether or not i need to order some grade 5 balls from you ?

[marshace]

Johan

 

How do you know your cones/cups are damaged and know not to just replace the bearings but the cones/cups as well.

 

if i know this i will know whether or not i need to order some grade 5 balls from you ?

 

Hi hubbers

 

Found what I need and plenty more Shimano parts on UK website SJScycles.

Dave was great and replied to a query about cone within minutes.

Found other stuff like freebody etc..I also need.

Yes getting it from UK is an issue but I will make a plan.

 

Go chech it out.

[Johan Bornman]

Johan

 

How do you know your cones/cups are damaged and know not to just replace the bearings but the cones/cups as well.

 

if i know this i will know whether or not i need to order some grade 5 balls from you ?

 

Sorry for the late reply. I've been meaning to scratch through my scrap to find a suitable example. Here it is.

 

What you see here are two cones, one new, one bad, clamped face-to-face.

 

 

The old one (top)has mild but clear pitting, which can be seen as a ring of white right around the track where the balls make contact. These are high-quality cones which were hardened and then ground. Lower quality is ground and then hardened and appears black and much rougher. The magnification here exaggerates the roughness of these cones.

 

Often the pitting is really difficult to see and it helps to feel for them. I use a pencil or ballpoint pen or scribe and run the tip in the track of the balls. You'll feel any roughness very quickly, even if you cannot see it.

 

If the cones are pitted right round like this one, the assembly was too tight and all the balls were overloaded. If the cone is pitted on one side only, the assembly was too loose and only the bottom balls were overloaded.

 

If the cones are rusted, they present with the same roughness but in large rusty rings. Large is relative to this little ring of pits. I really mean that you'll see a rusty imprint of each ball. The rust damage happens when the wheel is resting in your garage after a day's river crossings

 

The cups also pit and rust but not that easily. Usually it is rust damage that gets to them. This has to do, I suspect, with the depth of case hardening possible on thin cups vs thick cones.

Edited October 16, 2010 by Johan Bornman