Shimano Xt hub parts

[kosmonooit]

The "grade" is simply the maximum error on the ball expressed in microns ... a grade 5 ball has an error of no more than 5 millionth of an inch

 

You mean 5 millionths on a meter there JB surely, measurable my a micrometer ... the smallest fraction of an inch measurable was a 'thou' - a thousandth of an inch, not that I miss them

[Johan Bornman]

You mean 5 millionths on a meter there JB surely, measurable my a micrometer ... the smallest fraction of an inch measurable was a 'thou' - a thousandth of an inch, not that I miss them

 

 

Nope, no error there. Inches. You cannot measure the out-of-roundess on bearing balls on a micrometer.

 

For those of you who don't understand the Imperial measurement system, an inch is about forty gallons.

[Zaskar09]

Sorry for the partial hijack but can anyone tell me how tight the locknuts on the rear hub should be?

[Johan Bornman]

Sorry for the partial hijack but can anyone tell me how tight the locknuts on the rear hub should be?

 

They should be the same on all cones. Not so tight that you hurt your hands or damage the thin spanner when having to take them off again. I'd say, 12-15NM. How tight the cones should be is another story altogether.

[rock]

 

For those of you who don't understand the Imperial measurement system, an inch is about forty gallons.

 

quote of the year!

[deanbean]

Hi Johan I was browsing through my copy of Barnett's and read the following;

CONE INTERCHANGEABILITY

In every possible case, replace a worn cone with an identical cone. There will be many times when this will not be possible so it becomes necessary to know how to pick a correct substitute cone. For this there are some general guidelines and testing procedures that can be used to determine compatibility. These general guidelines are based on certain tendencies that are common to certain brands. Shimano has made more models of hubs over the years than anyone could possibly keep track of. Many of these models are externally different only. It is quite common that the cones in one model are identical to another model. Even when not identical, the cones may differ only in ways such as quality, finish, design of seal, or overall length. If seal differences exist, then the quality of the seal may be compromised but not the functionality of the hub. If only a length difference exists, it can often be made up for with a spacer change. The Shimano Parts Dealer Parts Catalog has excellent descriptive information about cones. If the dimensions for two different cones match, they are usually interchangeable with few critical complications.

Wheels Mfg. makes duplicates of certain Shimano cones. Some distributors (including United Bicycle Parts and Quality Bicycle Products) have created compatibility charts or systems to make it easier to determine which Shimano cone substitutes for another Shimano cone.

 

The test to determine cone compatibility has a number of steps that originally test for a likely replacement cone, and then empirically tests for compatibility.

1. Hold the old cone and possible substitute together small end to small end.Check whether the small-end diameters match.

2. Check whether the curves of the two cones appear symmetrical.

3. Check whether the overall cone length of the possible replacement is equal or longer (replacement can't be shorter).

4. Check whether replacement's overall diameter is equal to or less than original (replacement diameter cannot be larger unless hole in dustcap can be enlarged).

5. Test-mate the replacement cone against the balls in place in the hub cup and see if the grease print on the cone indicates that the balls will be rolling on the middle of the cone race (balls cannot roll on either end of the cone race).

If everything is acceptable except that the thread descriptions don't match, replace the axle and hardware as well.

Edited October 17, 2010 by deanbean

[Johan Bornman]

Hi Johan I was browsing through my copy of Barnett's and read the following;

CONE INTERCHANGEABILITY

In every possible case, replace a worn cone with an identical cone. There will be many times when this will not be possible so it becomes necessary to know how to pick a correct substitute cone. For this there are some general guidelines and testing procedures that can be used to determine compatibility. These general guidelines are based on certain tendencies that are common to certain brands. Shimano has made more models of hubs over the years than anyone could possibly keep track of. Many of these models are externally different only. It is quite common that the cones in one model are identical to another model. Even when not identical, the cones may differ only in ways such as quality, finish, design of seal, or overall length. If seal differences exist, then the quality of the seal may be compromised but not the functionality of the hub. If only a length difference exists, it can often be made up for with a spacer change. The Shimano Parts Dealer Parts Catalog has excellent descriptive information about cones. If the dimensions for two different cones match, they are usually interchangeable with few critical complications.

Wheels Mfg. makes duplicates of certain Shimano cones. Some distributors (including United Bicycle Parts and Quality Bicycle Products) have created compatibility charts or systems to make it easier to determine which Shimano cone substitutes for another Shimano cone.

 

The test to determine cone compatibility has a number of steps that originally test for a likely replacement cone, and then empirically tests for compatibility.

1. Hold the old cone and possible substitute together small end to small end.Check whether the small-end diameters match.

2. Check whether the curves of the two cones appear symmetrical.

3. Check whether the overall cone length of the possible replacement is equal or longer (replacement can't be shorter).

4. Check whether replacement's overall diameter is equal to or less than original (replacement diameter cannot be larger unless hole in dustcap can be enlarged).

5. Test-mate the replacement cone against the balls in place in the hub cup and see if the grease print on the cone indicates that the balls will be rolling on the middle of the cone race (balls cannot roll on either end of the cone race).

If everything is acceptable except that the thread descriptions don't match, replace the axle and hardware as well.

 

Nice post. It sounds like the story of my life. I stock, 760, the customer wants a 460. I stock 460 and suddenly there's a run on 6450 etc etc.

 

I'd like to add one more point to the last 5. Once you've installed the substitute cone, check if the hub=s over locknut dimension (OLD) is still what it is supposed to be. ie 135mm for MTB or 130mm for RB. This is the final confirmation that everyting's gonna be OK.

[kosmonooit]

Nope, no error there. Inches.

 

Definition of a micron according to Wiki:

 

"A micrometre (British English) or micrometer (American English) is one-millionth of a metre. Its official abbreviation is μm.

 

The term micron and its abbreviation μ (which were official between 1879 and 1967[1]) are still used to denote a micrometre, especially in American English, astronomy, and the semiconductor industry. Use of the term "micron" also helps differentiate the unit from the measuring device of the same name; however, it is no longer an official SI unit."

[Zaskar09]

They should be the same on all cones. Not so tight that you hurt your hands or damage the thin spanner when having to take them off again. I'd say, 12-15NM. How tight the cones should be is another story altogether.

 

When I tighten them anymore than about 5NM (according to torque wrench) the wheel seriously resists turning on the axle, I take it my cones are too tight then?

[Johan Bornman]

Definition of a micron according to Wiki:

 

"A micrometre (British English) or micrometer (American English) is one-millionth of a metre. Its official abbreviation is μm.

 

The term micron and its abbreviation μ (which were official between 1879 and 1967[1]) are still used to denote a micrometre, especially in American English, astronomy, and the semiconductor industry. Use of the term "micron" also helps differentiate the unit from the measuring device of the same name; however, it is no longer an official SI unit."

 

I learn something new every day. Thanks. I'll have to re-wire my brain now.

[Johan Bornman]

When I tighten them anymore than about 5NM (according to torque wrench) the wheel seriously resists turning on the axle, I take it my cones are too tight then?

 

You are confusing locknuts (actually jamb nuts) with cones. Completely different issue as I said in my reply.

 

Cones go as tight as they have to be to disply just a perceptible bit of play off the bike, and no play on the bike when the QR has been tightened.

 

I can feel a wheel service workshop coming up.

[kosmonooit]

I learn something new every day. Thanks. I'll have to re-wire my brain now.

 

Pleasure. Anything else I can help you with?

[TNOSE_E]

You are confusing locknuts (actually jamb nuts) with cones. Completely different issue as I said in my reply.

 

Cones go as tight as they have to be to disply just a perceptible bit of play off the bike, and no play on the bike when the QR has been tightened.

I can feel a wheel service workshop coming up.

 

Please!

[Monark]

So, after reading all of this I must ask if XT wheels worth buying? I am looking at upgrading and they are one of my options.

 

I want a wheel for XC racing that has sealed bearings and dont weigh a ton...

[Johan Bornman]

So, after reading all of this I must ask if XT wheels worth buying? I am looking at upgrading and they are one of my options.

 

I want a wheel for XC racing that has sealed bearings and dont weigh a ton...

 

All high-end bicycle hubs I know of have sealed bearings, and that includes Shimano.

 

Further, most weigh much less, whether that is a metric (Kosmonooit!)or imperial ton.

 

 

Don't confuse cartridge bearings with bearings with seals.