Capcha Posted November 5, 2010 Posted November 5, 2010 Being new to the whole disk brake thing I need a few questions answered. I bought a Bianchi around 8months ago. Since then I have maybe done +- 1600km. I noticed on todays ride that the rear brakes are not braking aswell as they should be. They are making a heck of a noise almost like when they get wet. So my question is:Are the pads finished? What is the km you get off a set of pads?How do you adjust the pads? as the brake lever seems to almost touch the handle bar now
AdriaanT Posted November 5, 2010 Posted November 5, 2010 Buy a can of brake cleaner ( aerosol can ) and spray into the caliper, that should sort the noise out. I'm going for 2200 Km's on my pads front and back, maybe the system needs to be bled again. The life time also depends on the type of pad, organic, semi metallic or metallic, most are semi metallic witch should last a while.
JohannSnyman Posted November 6, 2010 Posted November 6, 2010 >How do you adjust the pads? as the brake lever seems to almost touch the handle bar now Take the wheel out.Squeeze brake lever exactly once. Replace wheel.Repeat as needed. Works for me.
Wannabe Posted November 6, 2010 Posted November 6, 2010 (edited) >How do you adjust the pads? as the brake lever seems to almost touch the handle bar now Take the wheel out.Squeeze brake lever exactly once. Replace wheel.Repeat as needed. Works for me.Why don't you take your bike to him, take out your back wheel and show him how to perform the operation you described. After that you can show him to repair the damage/trouble caused by your silly and irresponsible "advice". I hope your "advice"was given in jest, but I do not think so. Edited November 6, 2010 by Wannabe
Capcha Posted November 6, 2010 Author Posted November 6, 2010 Why don't you take your bike to him, take out your back wheel and show him how to perform the operation you described. After that you can show him to repair the damage/trouble caused by your silly and irresponsible "advice". I hope your "advice"was given in jest, but I do not think so. Yeah OK. Dont feel like damaging my disks. I could always take it to my LBS, but would like to work on it myself so I know what to do for the future.
Wannabe Posted November 6, 2010 Posted November 6, 2010 I'm no expert on disc brakes, but what I know is this. Should you remove the wheel and not put in a spacer between the two/one caliper piston, the following happens when you pull the brake lever. The piston/s moves out further than is necessary and can even push out all the way. You then struggle to get the piston/s back, and your pads into place.You might even need to re-bleed the system.Best is to take bike to LBS, ask them to look at system and watch what they do. Best way to learn without paying too much school fees.
Capcha Posted November 7, 2010 Author Posted November 7, 2010 Well OK then. Will take it to them. Just thought there would be a nut or screw where I could adjust it.
Cassie Posted November 7, 2010 Posted November 7, 2010 No nut or screw... Best will be to re-bleed your system.this in itself is a fairly easy job!! Just google / you tube etc. for some instructional videos...a\mazing what one can learn from them.Alternatively. try a search on thsi site here...this topic has been described mant times over... Good luck - and ask if you do not know....many heads are better than one!!
JohannSnyman Posted November 7, 2010 Posted November 7, 2010 Why don't you take your bike to him, take out your back wheel and show him how to perform the operation you described. After that you can show him to repair the damage/trouble caused by your silly and irresponsible "advice". I hope your "advice"was given in jest, but I do not think so. Well, actually it does work for me. Notice I said "Exactly once". If it is not enough, you do it again. If it is too much, you wedge them apart and start over. No big deal. Disc brakes is not rocket science. :shrug:
Musashi Posted November 9, 2010 Posted November 9, 2010 Brake pads can last very long, but wet/ muddy conditions can chow them up in a few km's. I can easily adjust my Elixir's. Right behind the brake lever is a very small screw. Using an allen key, I turn the screw in a little bit to make the brakes take quicker. Easy DIY fix.
covie Posted November 9, 2010 Posted November 9, 2010 first thing i would do is simply to clean and realign the calipers. That in itself is very easy process. If that makes no difference take it to your LBS
Wyatt Earp Posted November 9, 2010 Posted November 9, 2010 Well, actually it does work for me. Notice I said "Exactly once". If it is not enough, you do it again. If it is too much, you wedge them apart and start over. No big deal. Disc brakes is not rocket science. :shrug:Clearly, a rocket scientist would have done the following, look for pad wear, if the pads are worn he would get a big flat screwdriver and with the pads still in the caliper he will pry them apart pushing the pistons all the way, flush with the caliper.He will then install new pads loosen the caliper and align the brakes.He will then see if the lever still comes close to the handlebar, this is when he realises that the brake needs to be bled.
Tieffels Posted November 9, 2010 Posted November 9, 2010 (edited) Someone please explain what is the obsession with bleeding brakes? Disk squeals: Bleed the brakes Disk binds: Bleed the brakesDodgy shifting: Bleed the brakes..Tyre sealant not working: Bleed the brakes... EVERYTHING on my MTB has broken at some point in time after years of constant abuse and I've NEVER had to bleed my brakes, and they've given me plenty hassles over the years.. Do you people even understand how the system works? What problem would exist that bleeding the brakes would solve? There can be only 2 in my mind: 1: Air in the system leading to spongy braking (Unlikely to ever happen unless you cock something up big time) 2: Not enough brake fluid so pumping and pumping has no effect (Unlikely to ever happen unless you've cocked up even bigger than in 1, or your seal went, which I've never heard of...) EDIT: My bad, this would actually only require you to top up the resivoir and with a bit of luck not require bleeding... Edited November 9, 2010 by chickenrun4me
Wyatt Earp Posted November 9, 2010 Posted November 9, 2010 Someone please explain what is the obsession with bleeding brakes? Disk squeals: Bleed the brakes Disk binds: Bleed the brakesDodgy shifting: Bleed the brakes..Tyre sealant not working: Bleed the brakes... EVERYTHING on my MTB has broken at some point in time after years of constant abuse and I've NEVER had to bleed my brakes, and they've given me plenty hassles over the years.. Do you people even understand how the system works? What problem would exist that bleeding the brakes would solve? There can be only 2 in my mind: 1: Air in the system leading to spongy braking (Unlikely to ever happen unless you cock something up big time) 2: Not enough brake fluid so pumping and pumping has no effect (Unlikely to ever happen unless you've cocked up even bigger than in 1, or your seal went, which I've never heard of...) No we don't , it would be fantastic if you could enlighten us. Ps: Did you even read the original post ? How do you adjust the pads? as the brake lever seems to almost touch the handle bar now
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now