Sammajoor Posted October 11, 2007 Share A few weeks ago went riding with Telkom on a mtb ride had 3 flats in 4 kays, not good i tell you Petri @karstens did a tubeless conversion with LarsenTT's with northern farm i had 4 thorns inthe rear wheel simply pulled them out and spun the wheel, cost me R 280 for both won't go tubes ever againsammajoor2007-10-11 04:58:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casspir Posted October 11, 2007 Share Johan Bornman's posts tend to focus on the basics. Cut out the hype and bling, straight to the bone!Regards,casspir Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#Pete# Posted October 11, 2007 Share I'd agree with Johan that most tyres can be succesfully converted, but I disagree that a R220 tyre is just fine. I've ridden tubeless conversion for 6 years now. When living in the Scotland I was fine with normal tyres, but when riding in Spain and here I'm not, and neither are many others (just ask the leaders in the Epic that kept ouncturing what they were on). The reason - rocks! We just have too many rocks at least here in the WC on our trails to run normal tyres. I have had several side wall tears from rock damage on Schwalbe's RR and NN and others before it got too expensive and I switched to UST - no problems anymore. Anecdotal evidence is still evidence if we all have the same anecdoets to tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted October 12, 2007 Share I think Johann is quite sensible .......... others not so 2 weeks ago I went tubeless with Stans and Maxxis Crossmark. Then, thinking about the puncture issue I carefully filled a tube with slime and put it away in my tubby bag .................... today I was boasting about this at my LBS (luverly bike shop - Finish Line) until someone asked if the tube had a narrow valve like the Stans kit ...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trackz Posted October 12, 2007 Share 1. It's called "slim vang sy baas". You can also fill a narrow valve tube with slime - little trick to "force" the knobbly valve nut out, then hold onto the valve shaft, fill up with Joe's and then reverse the valve shaft/nut process. Works very well other than the Joes/Stans makes rubber ball after a few months and you chuck the tube ... but its's cheaper than buying a slimed tube.2. As for JB - one of the few posters who talks sense rather than dump their blabber all over the forum! Please keep posting Johan - many of us appreciate your sense. 3 As for UST vs non-UST on a non-tubeless rim with Joes conversion. I have had acceptable results with the Crossmark non-UST on Joes but have to admit I cut a sidewall on the Epic (JB: on a rocky section and I don't ride carefully) - was lucky it sealed with a plug. Fritz advised me the Crossmark non-UST (or foldable) is one of the few I should use in this way as it had a slightly thicker sidewall than most non-UST tyres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky DQ Posted October 12, 2007 Share To add to the Captain's statements Had sidewall issues with non-tubeless and have moved to proper tubeless for that reason Love the Maxxis Crossmark LUSTS but they aint great in mud! Please explain what you mean by "sidewall issues." JB Side walls being cut on rocks etc of you ride like a Dutchman........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky DQ Posted October 12, 2007 Share Tubeless tyres are heavy (a big issue with the weight weenies here) and are impossibly difficult to remove' date=' especially in the field with gorilla snot leaking everywhere. People often break tyre levers trying to get a tubeless tyre off. It is easy to see why - the bead has a thick layer of gooey rubber on it for sealing against the rim. This soft rubber doesn't glide over the tyre lever. In my view, these tyres increase your chances of walking home instead of the other way around. Besides, they're ridiculously expensive. You needn't pay more than R200 for a perfectly good MTB tyre. JB[/quote'] JB, how else do you, with you wide knowledge of all things round, do you get sidewall damadge??? By riding like a dork over sharp objects, I head everyone cry out. MTB tyres need to be able to stand up to this abuse and tubeless tyres do this. this is the one instance that weight is not the primary issue. Regarding removal of tyres etc. on both my MTB's (one with Stans conversion on el cheapo Alex rims and the other with ZTR olympic rims) I have never had an issue getting the tyres off. in fact I have never even had to use a tyre lever. Easy peasy with proper "heavy weight" tubelss tyres. Go for a proper tubless tyre and be done. Never look back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted October 20, 2007 Share Another useless tubeless convertion I did today . After my Stans rim strip got a tear I went down to Bruce in centurion to buy a new one . Well unfortunately they did not have loose strips and I was not gonna waste my beer money on the full kit . The as I was about to leave when mechanic said he may have a very cheap solution for me . This is how it goes : Take out your role of insulation tape (the stuff your wife/Gf uses when she rewires the house) and stick this stuff around the side of the rim (inside) . One on the left and one on the right . Now stick one around the centre of the rim . Go and look at old your old tunes and if you lucky like me you will find a tube with a removable valve . Cut out this valve and after making a hole into the insulation tape fit valve . Put your R200 non-UST tyre that you took of your pick and pay Raleigh and fit it on rim . Inflate with your compresser (we all got one !) and let the tyre seat properly . Deflate , add your sealant of choice and re-inflate . Very important , ride around for a bit . Go for a tubeless tyre if you want the sidewall support otherwise grab any tyre you can find . If the tyre does not seal on the first go do not even bother putting sealant in you gonna waste money . Will have to see how well this works after a few rides but for about R20 it's worth a try . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky DQ Posted October 20, 2007 Share No problems with this plan, I have done this as well, way, way, way lighter than any other option. I jist went for the UST option fot safty on the thorny rides.!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martelpypie Posted October 20, 2007 Share I have used Maxiss Mimo's 1.9 non-tubeless tyres with a wirebead on tubeless rims for about 2,5 yrs now. The tyres weigh about 400g each, making the wheels very light. Its a very fast tyre but you have to be careful over rocks as it can cut, and you can also damage the rim with such as narrow tyre. My 2 boys do XC and half marathons and they love them. Genuine tubeless tyres are probably the best but they weigh on average about 750-900g per tyre, and also cost about R300 more per tyre. I dont think its worth it. We are currently testing the Maxiss Crossmark non-tubeless with a wire bead and its definitely a good tyre, little bit heavy,attracts mud like magnet, but fast with little resistance on hard gravel roads. Johan B, keep it up and keep on posting your comments. Tyres generally cut when you take chances or do not concentrate when riding, or if you ride at the wrong pressure. I know of many of my friends that have also cut their sidewalls of brand new UST tubeless tyres. It can happen to any one. I love tubeless and will convince any one to use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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