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Me Nervous Of Going Tubular For Racing...


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Posted

Been dreaming about those lekka race wheels.

Only race currently with my normal training wheels - a mid-range quality. Not tubeless or tubular.

 

Got a lekka deal for Tubular carbon hoops weighing in the region of 1200 grams.

I hear such varying reports on tubbies.

 

Those who stand for tubular when they race, how has it been? :whistling:

Those who won't go the tubby route, what's your reason? :blush:

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Posted

Quick question: Have you or anybody you know ;) ever punctured while on a ride when there was no team car with spare wheels in attendance?

 

If you answer "yes" to this question, then you prolly don't want tubbies.

 

My Ksyrium SL's are up for sale, with new bearings and serviceable GP3000 tyres...

Posted

I have a friend who owns a bike shop and he told me about this special slime for higher pressures that you put in tubulars. So normal punctures would get sealed whereas with clinchers you would have to stop and change the tube. Of course if you get a big hole then your ride/race would be over with both tubulars and clinchers. I think for the normal small holes with a bit of slime you should be fine.

Posted

Problem is that tubbies have latex tubes inside them which are air permeable (that's why tubbie pressures go down slowly & you have to pump them up each ride), so your Stan's or Slime dries quite quickly and you end up with a lump of latex in your wheel and the resultant imbalance can be quite noticeable in a light wheel.

Posted

It depends on how you ride.....

Last year I rode in the league with clinchers and only complete 2 out of 5 races.

This year I completed all the league races with tubbies.

It is strange, but I just make sure I stay away from edge of road and pump more than 9bar on tubbies.

Posted (edited)

If you want a similar ride feel to tubbies using clinchers, then use a high tpi lightweight foldable clincher racing tyre that can pump up to around +8.5 bar or so, and use a latex tube inside. Latex tubes are expensive though at around R160ea for the Michelin brand, and they do lose air pressure slowly. Also add some talc or baby powder on the inside of the tyre casing, and on the rim tape side to reduce tube/tyre/rim friction. Make sure the rim tape is seated properly as this will cause punctures otherwise.

Edited by SeanMort
Posted

I like tyre/tubes because of the hassle factor.

 

My days of sewing tubbies, glueing tubbies and having 10 tubbies curing in my basement are over.

 

HPs are easy, clean and the latest technology puts them almost on par with tubbies.

 

If I were a sponsored pro with a back up vehicle and a mechanic then it would be tubbies all the way!

Posted (edited)

I'm not a pro.

And will not lose prize money... and hence my sponsorship.

 

Guess there's arguments either way.

 

 

THANX FOR THE VIEWS THUS FAR, RIDERS! :thumbup:

Edited by AirBender
Posted

I like tyre/tubes because of the hassle factor.

 

My days of sewing tubbies, glueing tubbies and having 10 tubbies curing in my basement are over.

 

HPs are easy, clean and the latest technology puts them almost on par with tubbies.

 

If I were a sponsored pro with a back up vehicle and a mechanic then it would be tubbies all the way!

That would be High Pressure, Eldron?

MariusL also uses that on his Cosmics, me think.

 

Hmmm... :huh:

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