jatho Posted December 3, 2010 Share I made the move from tubbies to clinchers and am going back to tubbies! Lighter, lower rolling resistance, rubber compound is generally better than clincher equivalent. Use slime and if you do puncture you'll probably be back on the road quicker than if you had Clinchers, for me, if I'm racing without a backup vehicle, I'm out of contention either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted December 3, 2010 Share That would be High Pressure, Eldron?MariusL also uses that on his Cosmics, me think. Hmmm... HP is a generic name for clincher. Perhaps the tubeless road system that is semi in vogue at the moment is the answer... Anyone try any? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'Dale Posted December 3, 2010 Share I made the move from tubbies to clinchers and am going back to tubbies! Lighter, lower rolling resistance, rubber compound is generally better than clincher equivalent. Use slime and if you do puncture you'll probably be back on the road quicker than if you had Clinchers, for me, if I'm racing without a backup vehicle, I'm out of contention either way.Good point.Even with clinchers and a puncture, it is a finish but no flight up the seeding ladder! It seems that tubbies are tougher to puncture or break than clinchers, thereby less chance. Hmm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiny K Posted December 3, 2010 Share It's up to you boet..... I always thought that you had to replace the tubbie after a puncture (and would require gluing?) I dunno, but what I do know is that, I want lighter wheels too - and tubbies are lighter than the exact same wheelset in clinchers. Edited December 3, 2010 by SirK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gummibear Posted December 3, 2010 Share At what level are you racing....top 3.... 5....10....? If you have someone to trail you on a race and hand you a spare wheel then fine go for it.Otherwise stick with clinchers and a spare tube. As SeanMort said the new clinchers have similar feel as tubbies try Conti Attack/force tyres When i rode with tubbies the problem wasn't really punctures it was the tyre bursting and no tyre sealant will help for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariusL Posted December 3, 2010 Share When i rode with tubbies the problem wasn't really punctures it was the tyre bursting and no tyre sealant will help for that. how hard did you pump your tubbies? In all my years of racing (since the age of 12), I only punctured 4 times in my first Argus (rim tape issues), and twice this year (snake bites)... I'd take the chance with tubbies if i had the option now... I rode tubbies on the track, and you just can't explain the difference to someone who hasn't tried it... it's just so "aaaaaaaaaaaaaah" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'Dale Posted December 3, 2010 Share At what level are you racing....top 3.... 5....10....? If you have someone to trail you on a race and hand you a spare wheel then fine go for it.Otherwise stick with clinchers and a spare tube. As SeanMort said the new clinchers have similar feel as tubbies try Conti Attack/force tyres When i rode with tubbies the problem wasn't really punctures it was the tyre bursting and no tyre sealant will help for that.My level of racing has little to do with my choice of wheel.Is what experience do I want from my racing ride. Whether I am in SV, I bunch or XX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david16v Posted December 3, 2010 Share Have been riding with tubuless rims and UST tyres for two years now.I use the same rims for race/training. I have only had two problems, which has luckily been in my training rides.First occasion the tyre got a cut.Second occasion very similar but more my own fault by running on very smooth-ish tyres! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gummibear Posted December 3, 2010 Share how hard did you pump your tubbies? For triathlons 9.5 bars as the bike stood in the sun for a while and for the road 10.5 bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'Dale Posted December 3, 2010 Share I don't do my own repairs. Use the service of the LBS. Are tubbies more expensive to maintain, repair, etc.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gummibear Posted December 3, 2010 Share I don't do my own repairs. Use the service of the LBS. Are tubbies more expensive to maintain, repair, etc.? Yes they need to be glued on and it's a hassle to get all that glue off again and they need to be taken apart to fix a puncture.Ask your lbs what they will charge for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tankman Posted December 3, 2010 Share When do you have most of your punctures?While out training! Use your tubbies for racing and you "should" have less chance of puncturing theoretically. Puncturing on tubbies or clinchers in a race doesnt matter because you will not see your bunch again! I believe tubbies are less prone to punctures due to the high pressure you are able to maintain.Your pressures might have been a bit low gummybear, I run them around 11 - 12bar normally. 9.5 bar is almost clincher pressure. I dont like the idea of adding slime, that defeats the purpose of getting light wheels and then adding weight to it again. I am not convinced that the slime will be able to plug a hole under that extreme pressure anyway. Then there are all the stories about the slime eating away at the latex etc. If you puncture you puncture. Every cyclist should try tubbies at least once! The aerodynamics, energy efficiency and rolling resistance just makes sense when you experience that feeling for the first time! (and many times there after) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariusL Posted December 3, 2010 Share When do you have most of your punctures?While out training! Use your tubbies for racing and you "should" have less chance of puncturing theoretically. Puncturing on tubbies or clinchers in a race doesnt matter because you will not see your bunch again! I believe tubbies are less prone to punctures due to the high pressure you are able to maintain.Your pressures might have been a bit low gummybear, I run them around 11 - 12bar normally. 9.5 bar is almost clincher pressure. I dont like the idea of adding slime, that defeats the purpose of getting light wheels and then adding weight to it again. I am not convinced that the slime will be able to plug a hole under that extreme pressure anyway. Then there are all the stories about the slime eating away at the latex etc. If you puncture you puncture. Every cyclist should try tubbies at least once! The aerodynamics, energy efficiency and rolling resistance just makes sense when you experience that feeling for the first time! (and many times there after) I was waiting for your response TankMan here's someone who knows firsthand what he is talking about Oh and did i mention that he is a legend DC team captain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gummibear Posted December 3, 2010 Share Your pressures might have been a bit low gummybear, I run them around 11 - 12bar normally. 9.5 bar is almost clincher pressure. Max pressure on the Conti's was 10.5 but found that if they stood in the sun they would burst and nothing worse than getting to your bike to find your wheel flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liebenw Posted December 3, 2010 Share I don't do my own repairs. Use the service of the LBS. Are tubbies more expensive to maintain, repair, etc.? yes they are, I only ride with vittoria cx and if you puncture, that's R700 bucks bye bye. They just not the same after fixing them. As for racing, hey your race is done once you puncture anyway, you can still ride to the end or be like me, hike and catch a lift back yo your car. Believe me, once you have raced on a set of good wheels with dood tubbies it is very hard going back to HP's. Been riding them since 1999. No way I'm changing to HP's again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tankman Posted December 3, 2010 Share I don't do my own repairs. Use the service of the LBS.Are tubbies more expensive to maintain, repair, etc.? Fixing a puncture is a mission, I havent attempted this myself but it requires loosening the stitching, fixing the latex tube and the sowing it back up again. Would rather have someone with experience do it or buy a new one. Gluing the tubbies on is straight forward, I do this myself. Some patients are required because the whole process can take up to 3 days if you do it properly (some even say a week!) One thing I am still keeping a close eye one, is the life expectancy of the tubbies in terms of mileage. Not sure what millage is realistic for tubbies. Some clinchers will go for 7000km. Dont recon you will get that much on tubbies, depending on what type you are using of course.I have 1700km on my set now, with some wear visible on the rear but it still looks good for many miles. Will keep you posted on this! I was waiting for your response TankMan here's someone who knows firsthand what he is talking about Oh and did i mention that he is a legend DC team captain Thanks bud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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