Grease Advice

[Swift01]

While your at it can I send my GF's hubs around.... Damn XT hubs the worst ever for water. They should put a warning label on them when you buy their wheels. Please service once a month or every time you go through lots of water (which these days is often). One day they will put decent seals in.

 

As you can tell I have to clean those hubs out tonight. Been 3 weeks and 2 rides in the mud/water :-(

[I-FELT-the-FORCE]

While your at it can I send my GF's hubs around.... Damn XT hubs the worst ever for water. They should put a warning label on them when you buy their wheels. Please service once a month or every time you go through lots of water (which these days is often). One day they will put decent seals in.

 

As you can tell I have to clean those hubs out tonight. Been 3 weeks and 2 rides in the mud/water :-(

 

So I am not the only one , it is a k*k dirty job. by the end of this thread, I am going to be a champion Hub Mechanic, so of course, send it on down to me and I will sort it out for you ........

Seems like I should be doing this often, just looking for that little bit more out of my bike

[AndreZA]

While your at it can I send my GF's hubs around.... Damn XT hubs the worst ever for water. They should put a warning label on them when you buy their wheels. Please service once a month or every time you go through lots of water (which these days is often). One day they will put decent seals in.

 

As you can tell I have to clean those hubs out tonight. Been 3 weeks and 2 rides in the mud/water :-(

 

Are you talking about the hubs on the XT wheels or the standalone hubs that you build custom wheels with? If the latter then you are doing something wrong. The last time (two weeks ago) I removed the seals on my hubs it was still perfectly clean underneath them.

[Swift01]

It's the XT wheels that come as one package. Something like a model M775 hubs. Awesome wheels just bad seals. Suppose I am just used to having sealed bearings that don't require too much maintenance.

[The Drongo]

yip, serviced the Freebody as well. So now I hear VERY little. Think I am going to remove just a touch of the grease.

 

SR

 

Too much grease in there and over time with it collecting muck your pawl springs are going to operate ineffectively and you wont get decent takeup on the ratchets.

A really light greasing is better.

Its the bearings in the hub you need to keep greased

Edited February 15, 2011 by The Drongo

[I-FELT-the-FORCE]

SR

 

Too much grease in there and over time with it collecting muck your pawl springs are going to operate ineffectively and you wont get decent takeup on the ratchets.

A really light greasing is better.

Its the bearings in the hub you need to keep greased

 

 

Thanks a mil for the advice, so I will be removing the majority of the grease and go back to the "Hey, its that guy with the Merida again - from 100meters away"

Dont want to botch it up, so rather get the advice from people who know what they are doing, Drongo, thanks for the heads up and saving me some cash in the future, much appreciated.

[chris_w_65]

Should I smear a light film of grease on the freehub body splines before I slip the casette on or stick it on dry?

[LeTurbo]

For what it's worth, as though anyone cares except maybe RodTi and me, a lithium grease isn't good for titanium frames and parts. You that's RodTi and me) want a copper-based grease.

[Johan Bornman]

For what it's worth, as though anyone cares except maybe RodTi and me, a lithium grease isn't good for titanium frames and parts. You that's RodTi and me) want a copper-based grease.

 

Your bike doesn't have any titanium parts that require lubrication and therefore no grease ever need to come close to the non-rolling titanium bits and pieces on your bike.

 

Bearings and bushes are never made from titanium. Your bike is safe with any grease.

 

I am not aware of a copper-based grease. Copper compound is not a lubricant. It is a greasy base witha actual metal (copper) particles in. Metal particles are not great for lubrication, as you can imagine.

 

The lithium and calcium and molybdenum in those greases is actually salts of lithium, calcium and molybdenum, commonly called soap. Not washing soap, just chemical nomenclature for those compounds.

[LeTurbo]

Ah! Thanks JB. See, this is what comes of finding odd bits and pieces on the 'net - I usually get the wrong end of the stick when I try to get the bit between my teeth (and other mixed metaphors). I'll stick with my Castrol LM then, seeing as I've had the tub for about 20 years and only used 1cm or so. A penny saved is a penny earned.

[I-FELT-the-FORCE]

Must just add to this....

On my re-build of my new frame... I used Exus E-G01 Blue Teflon grease. Used this for my BB, Headset and other moving parts. Seems to have worked the trick. Nice grease, not too sticky and goes on a treat.. Happy with the results

[Johan Bornman]

Should I smear a light film of grease on the freehub body splines before I slip the casette on or stick it on dry?

 

Dont grease non-moving parts. Period.

 

And in case anyone imagines movement in there. There is none. Don't put grease on cassette splines, fork steerers, BB plastic pipes or anywhere else where it can annoy me when I take those parts off.

 

Grease goes in bearings and bearings only.

[AndreZA]

Dont grease non-moving parts. Period.

 

And in case anyone imagines movement in there. There is none. Don't put grease on cassette splines, fork steerers, BB plastic pipes or anywhere else where it can annoy me when I take those parts off.

 

Grease goes in bearings and bearings only.

 

What about where the seat rails get clamped?

[chris_w_65]

What about where the seat rails get clamped?

 

I wouldn't have put there

Edited March 1, 2011 by chris_w_65

[chris_w_65]

Dont grease non-moving parts. Period.

 

And in case anyone imagines movement in there. There is none. Don't put grease on cassette splines, fork steerers, BB plastic pipes or anywhere else where it can annoy me when I take those parts off.

 

Grease goes in bearings and bearings only.

 

Thanks JB

 

What about on threads like on BB cups? (gets flame suit on)

Edited March 1, 2011 by chris_w_65

[Guest Big H]

Somebody said I must cook my chain in grease on the stove. We have a gas stove and I used an old teflon pan. The grease got very hot and caught fire. The roof of the kitchen is now burnt black and there are grease spots verywhere. I tried to kill the flames by using Em's dishcloths. It also gaught fire and in my process of trying to kill the fire I used a fire extinguisher and the pressure blasted the burning grease everywhere with grease spot all over the kitchen. I now have bruises all over my body where Em blixemed me. Even my coffee tastes like burnt grease.

 

What type of grease must I use to cook my chain in and what is the maximum temperature allowed. Will the chain now stretch with normal use and can I still measure the stretch with a chain guage. Which guage is the best.... Park tools?