Lotus

I got it about two or three years ago from a friend' date=' in perfect condition at the time. I re-fitted it about 18 months ago, after rebuilding the bike. It was resprayed, but not heavily sanded for preparation. The lacquer overcoat may have hidden signs of cracking. The stem bolts aren't really rusted, that's more like oxidation (yes, I know that's really rust by another name ). I checked the stem today, and there are no signs of protrusions on it, and no scars on the bar where it clamped in. No, that's just the original anodizing peeking out from under the lacquer overpaint. I did go down once before - a wet road and the front washed out in a corner. Only apparent damage was to ego' date=' the bike was fine (I broke it's fall). I can't say I've ever seen such a recommendation, TBH. Wasn't creaking at all (although I wish I could say the same for myself after that!). I keep the bike well serviced and tuned, and as noise-free as possible, and I notice things creeping up (well, most of the time). I think the lesson from this (and the great comments) is that this area and the seat post should be treated with care. Treat scratches with HUGE suspicion, and replace if you're in any way nervous about the integrity of the part. I've ordered the new bar and stem with oversize (38.1mm) centre section and a 4 bolt stem. The thing that really annoys me now is not the cost of the new bits, but having to buy new bar tape again, because I did this 3 months ago. I'm partial to the Fizik tape, and the price we pay here is ridiculous (compared to CRC). However, I plan to be riding again this weekend, so no time to waste.

Okay' date=' here's an interesting one. You've all had a chain-ring tattoo by now, but how about a chainring snakebite? http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1069v2.jpg I'm still trying to figure out how that one got there. Sure - hope these help. Below the stem, from the side http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1064v2.jpg Behind and slightly above the stem, looking forward http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1067v2.jpg Straight ahead http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1066v2.jpg The broken off bar http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1065v2.jpg

Roasties - nah, I bet you guys have much better ones in your collections! Besides, once it's under Tegaderm there's not much to see (until the plasma builds up - bwahaha). Here's a pics of the bars http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1059_2.jpg Mud Dee - you're right. You know there's something wrong as you see the road change it's angle towards you (and your one hand can now touch the front skewer quite easily), but for a moment it doesn't make sense. Big H - that figures. He had a really good looking bike hanging off the back there (I must have been a bit dopey though, because I can't tell you what kind it was!). Lotus2010-01-10 07:22:26

Went for an easy 70km ride through the Cradle via Muldersdrift today. Right at the Protech truck yard, on the incline going up to the stop street, I stood to keep my momentum going at about 30km/h, when suddenly something felt very wrong. As I hit the road I thought the fork had snapped, but then it got a bit painful so I decided to just lie still and stop thinking about that for a while, before I lifted the bike off me. I called my wife (she hates these calls from the bike phone) to come and pick me up. Lots of roasties and a badly cut elbow, but nothing that Tegaderm can't handle. My main concern, after the bike, was keeping the interior of the car clean! The cause of the crash - the aluminium handlebar had snapped clean off next to the stem clamp, without warning. I suspect the clamp may have been at fault, as one of the screws wasn't quite tight. I've always been wary of carbon handlebars which (it is claimed) can snap without warning. It seems aluminium can do the same. Thanks to all the roadies and MTBers who stopped and offered assistance. You folks were all very considerate, and I thank you. There was even a guy in a black Merc 4X4 who stopped (and I'm pretty sure it was Raymond Hack, formerly of SAFA. As he drove off I noticed a MTB on the back of the car. Good on you Raymond, I hope your break from football will give you more time for riding.). Now, what kind of handlebar to replace this with, carbon or aluminium again? I wonder if I need a new stem....

At least they could see their enemy coming - safest way to cycle on the roads in my often not so humble opinion. Riding on the pavements where permitting is a bonus' date=' and we always give pedestrians right of way. [/quote'] I saw a report of cycling accident statistics a few months ago (it may have been on roadbikerider.com, I think) which listed the various accident scenarios. What stood out were (highest likelihood) being hit from front by vehicles turning across you in an intersection, followed by being hit from ahead while cycling on wrong side of road (it has something to do with the motorist not expecting to see you there and reacting incorrectly as a result).

Then one has to ask why they aren't out there looking for them. Are they waiting for a tragedy to happen, or are they out of fuel for the patrol cars again? I'm getting so fed up with this situation and it reinforces my decision to leave. Thanks to the apathy of the SAPS and the outright corruption of Metro police, we're being driven indoors and away from the pursuits we enjoy. Damn them all to hell! Boats - I'm glad you guys are okay, and I hope that that your son isn't traumatised.

Sandblasting the paint to leave a shiny finish is, unfortunately, going to look wrong and will expose the frame to corrosion. A better approach, if you want to create a metallic finish, is to mask the area off and spray with a Duco aluminium paint (having first prepped the area). I used this paint on my rebuild (https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=69502). The best approach, if you have the money and can part with the frame for a period, is to have one of the professionals (see under "Photos" section of this forum) do the job. You'll fall in love with your bike all over again. The DIY route is quite likely to start a chain of events that you can't stop, while the "Pro" route has a logical (and satisfactory) end. Lotus2009-12-08 09:42:12

And to think we normally go racing by in our little metal boxes thinking "I wish I was already in (Colesberg/Richmond/Leeu Gamka/ Beaufort West/Touws River) - what boring countryside - what do they do here for fun?".

As promised - sorry I couldn't get to this sooner. Stem (before) http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/stem.jpg Stem (after) http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1005.jpg Top tube (before) http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/toptube.jpg Top tube (after) - shows tapering tube and joints faired in http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/newtop.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1001.jpg Another top tube view, showing re-profiled seat tube joint http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1002.jpg Stem area showing new graphics (compare to first and third pic) and tapered top tube http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/stem2.jpg

I agree with you - Edman's levers are brilliant. And being chrome they'll be ultra durable. Nice work with the Duplicolor though - that was a good save. Where did you get that done Edman?

I'm not sure I'd do that on the frame - I think it's better for a smaller and contained area like a component. I think decals (or airbrushing) are a far better way to go. Do you have the decals, or is that a problem? BTW - if you clearcoat the permament marker ink, be sure to apply a couple of "mist" coats before you lay it on thickly, or else the marker ink will dissolve under the "hot" solvent and run. Mist coats are applied lightly and from a bigger distance to allow the lacquer to partially dry before it hits the surface. Build this up in layers, allowing enough drying time between coats (usually 15 minutes). Lotus2009-12-06 10:20:44

Wax polish on STIs would be a big no-no. Like the advice on sunscreen, just trust me on this! STI levers A better bet would be a clear lacquer, like a Dulux rattle-can. If you don't want the shiny metal look then add a small amount of black (or blue) lacquer to the clear lacquer and shoot it through an airbrush. Alternatively, for that "anodized" look, try coating the shiny parts with a red, or blue (or whatever colour you like) permanent marker. You'll have to practice a bit to get the coverage even - a rag dipped in thinners will get you back to square one, until you're happy. Finish off with a couple of coats of clear to seal and protect. Frame Clear lacquers are really not tough enough to protect your frame. The only thing that really does the job is automotive 2K clear coat. If you don't have a spray gun handy, then your best bet is to take the frame (stripped and masked) to a panel beater and ask them to shoot it in their spray booth next time they have a job in there (and that's usually every day). It shouldn't cost more than a couple of hundred (maybe even free, if you're lucky). Make sure to mask threaded areas carefully, such as BB apertures as well as top and bottom of the stem. I use Prestik in the bottle cage screw holes, seat screw, drop out holes, etc.

I'll take some tomorrow and post.

I bought my Cadex CFR2 a couple of years ago when I wanted to get back into riding. I didn't have the money for a new bike with the specs I wanted (carbon basically), so I bought this through Junkmail for R3000. After riding it for a while I decided that I liked the bike's handling and weight, but not the looks. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/HPIM0695.jpg I re-profiled the top, steerer and front tubes with very light aluminium fairings (Gillette shaving cream can) and epoxy glue, because these areas looked old-fashioned and anaemic. The edges between the carbon tubes and aluminium joints were also faired in. The top tube now has a taper, flaring slightly at the seatpost and more noticeably towards the steerer tube. I also recast the cable guides along the top tube, as the originals had broken off before I got the bike. I did this by taking a foil pressing of the remaining original, then pouring Pratley epoxy glue into the mold with a small piece of curved wire to provide reinforcing. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/HPIM1562.jpg I resprayed it, keeping some carbon areas of the fork and tubes exposed (the masked areas in the photo below), and clear coated with tough auto 2K to protect the custom made decals safely underneath. You have to be really careful sanding back carbon fibre. There's a real risk of damaging the structural integrity if you're too rough with it, and you can't use chemical strippers. And don't get one of those splinters in your finger - it's a lot like a sea urchin spine! Burns like crazy and you can't grip it with tweezers like an ordinary splinter. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/HPIM1568.jpg The quill steerer was replaced with a headset converter, so that I could use a conventional stem. The upgrade was completed with a Fizik saddle (best I've ever used) and Shimano 560 wheels (I'm not light and these can stand the strain). The new Shimano 105 10speed groupset is nearly as good as the Dura Ace I used to have, just not as light (especially the cassette). Like the Dura Ace the shifting is flawless, and it takes a couple of minutes every other week to keep it that way. Despite the frame mods (which added no weight worth mentioning - hold an empty Coke can and you'll see), the bike is significantly lighter thanks to the new groupset (especially because the BB is no longer a metal cartridge) and the somewhat lighter saddle. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_0991.jpg Overall it was an interesting exercise in fabricating, graphic and decal design, painting and "wrenching". Would I do it again? No (the short answer). The long answer - it's extremely time-intensive (my job is in consulting, and so I'm rather aware of what time costs), and it's not really cheap. The bike didn't cost much to buy, but the upgrades added a bit. The painting had to be done twice because I wasn't happy with the first design (there's a heck of a lot of visualisation involved , and only the pros get it right the first time). The paints are pretty toxic, and you need ideal weather conditions and proper equipment to get a good finish. There are a couple of bike refinishers on the forum here. Do yourself a favour and call them. Their prices are very reasonable, compared to DIY.

Two ways: 1. Get off and run next to it 2. Diet/train hard and lose 2 kgs - it will be the cheapest way to get lighter

I saw something similar happen two Sundays ago here at the Cradle. The construction vehicles are picking up/dumping ground next to the Elandsdrift road, just off the R512. After the rain the truck tyres are coated with mud when they get back on the road, which shakes off in big clumps on the shoulder of the road. One of the riders in a group hit a clump of this mud and went down hard, at the bottom of the downhill section. He was lying down when I went by, but well attended (still there when I came back nearly an hour later!).

The only threat to MTB'ers when it comes to Land Rovers is riding into the back of a broken down one Or going down on the oil they drop. And it's called a Defender because that what you end up doing when your friends can't believe you bought one of those instead of a decent bike.

Just a thought - how about the clubs sponsoring cycling-specific road signs on the Cradle route, along the lines of reminders to keep left, be nice/considerate, contact numbers for club enquiries, emergencies numbers, etc. Not all of that info on one board - have many boards which each have a message. The signs should also have a cycling motif which will draw motorists and bikers attention to the fact that there are cyclists in the area (yes I know there are some cyclist signs out there, but this is different because the target is the cyclist AND the motorist). Lotus2009-11-12 12:11:20

It seems his previous brushes with cyclists finally caught up with him. HOWEVER, consider what provoked this incident and remember it next time you're tempted to flip a sign at a motorist that hoots at you (and before you think I'm being sanctimonious let me tell you I have a real problem in that area). I really struggle with my temper out there some days, and I have no problem in hauling up the motorist who is unlucky to get caught up at the lights by the time I catch up with him. But when I calm down afterward and have a quiet word with myself I always think about my family and ask "Was that worth it?". Too many psychos in this town nowadays - I'm not a psychiatrist, so there's no sense in finding them, is there?

Looks like a bunch of dogs at the door wanting to go for walkies! Maybe they saw you pick up your helmet? Lotus2009-11-11 00:50:13

If it's a small cut that does not look as though it will weaken the structure of the tyre then maybe a gaiter (a large patch applied to the inside of the tyre casing) would work. The problem here is that the new tyre compounds are less rubber and more synthetic material, which makes bonding the gaiter quite difficult. I took a cut on one of my new tyres, but I decided (after inflating it harder than I would normally ride it) that the tube was not causing an outward bulge (so structurally okay) and I left it as is. Consider this carefully though. Charging downhill at 70 km/h, you don't want to be thinking "I hope that patch holds!".

@ Slave - The way things stand right now, cyclists will always be in the wrong, thanks to the inconsiderate acts of a few foolish cyclists. I thought they only demonstrated their stupidity out on the roads, but I'm disappointed to see that they trumpet their stupidity on this forum too, like a bunch of lycraed Julius Malemas! Another thread mentions a serious accident in the Cape yesterday (https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=66822). A mention is made of one of the vehicles attempting to overtake a group of cyclists when the accident took place. While the facts are unclear, who do you think is going to be seen as the cause of that accident? I previously suggested that the relevant cycling organisations should patrol selected routes from time to time, and "educate" transgressors. Here's another idea. How about cyclists signing a Code of Conduct and wearing a visible symbol (a la Think Bike) proclaiming their allegiance to safer and considerate cycling? It's an initiative that would be more visible than merely "asking our members to observe the rules" and it would show other road users that we're cleaning up our act.