Lotus

Good point _ I should have remembered that. Also, you can wrap the bladder in newspaper as well. It all helps to keep it cool longer. Generally the camelback stays very cool for at least an hour, so use the caged bottles first. But remember, sunblock only helps against the sun. The only things that protect you against sunstroke are cool fluids and common sense.

Another thing to bear in mind is that when your "core" temperature goes out of bounds it's too late to drink and heatstroke is likely. For that reason I would suggest keeping your drinks as cool as possible. A good trick is to freeze your camelback bladder overnight. I've also found that wrapping drinks bottles (and camelback bladder) in heavy duty aluminum foil and plastic packaging tape provides a certain measure of insulation (and freezing again helps them to stay cool longer).

I've heard a couple of Engen commercials on the radio (702) over the last couple of days, asking motorists to be more aware and tolerant of cyclists. I can't help thinking that this is what CSA (as a governing body) should be promoting, but if a fuel company gets the ball rolling then good for them (and us!). This kind of initiative is commendable. I don't go out of my way for petrol brands, but I'll give more support in future to Engen for this.

There are other types of members? Oh of course there are, how could I miss that? Let's see, we have male members...

I think that's where the last screen in that series comes in..

Don't miss the (Friday race) Senior TT - features the most heart-stopping moment I've ever seen in bike racing.

Is this not the mythical and mysterious place known to roadies as "The Zone"?

http://www.news24.com/SciTech/News/Nasa-shuttle-crew-woes-20110119 I imagine a lot of training money went down the tubes when he did.

If I may add something here (I've sprayed my own frames FWIW): The easiest and most effective way to protect threads is to put Prestik into the smaller holes, such as brake mounts, dropout hanger, etc. Don't forget the holes for the bottle cages! Regarding the BB area, I first take the frame to my LBS and have the frame refaced, then while it's nice and clean I put masking tape on and cut it clean around the frame (less chance for it to be dragged off). For the head tube I put tape around the inside top and bottom, same for the seat tube. That way the spray doesn't build up a ridge around the edges. As Johan says, don't leave it all up to the painter. And remember, the best paint job can't hide bad preparation. Make sure all scratches (including sanding marks) are completely removed. Wet the area and hold it up to the light to make sure.

Sportmans Warehouse cricket department - I think you ask for a "box". Why'd you paint them anyway?

The hardest working part on my bike is lubed with beer!

Nah, we're too busy riding. We've outsourced complaining to the local residents (I think you know who I mean ). It's not our core competency.

On a slightly more serious note - if you flatten one of these bastards you're not going to be happy for even 5 minutes. Once the shock wears off you'll realise (or the very unsympathetic previously disadvantaged constable/whatever will make you realise) that you're in for a rough time. You see, it seems these bastards (and now I'm talking about the mugger again) have more rights than you, even when they're dead or doing something that will shortly result in that condition. Now, assuming that all goes well in court (because that's where you're headed), there will remain a criminal judgment on your name. And even if it says that you were found "not guilty", it's there. So when you're applying for that dream job in Silicon Valley, and the friendly (not!) consular official looks at your visa application reference checks - guess what? I can't offer any better advice on protecting yourself apart from backing what others have said about riding in a group. Pepper spray? Make sure it's a good one. I've got a Police issue version - it's brutal. Just make sure you're upwind if you use it. The person that gave it to me said it's the business. He was a previously advantaged cop who's since quit. He said there's nothing like it for quieting a cell full of drunks in Cape Town on a Friday night. In fact you only have to show it to them - they know what it does!

Not really - else they wouldn't use it on the Airbus A380 and Boeing's Dreamliner (which is why, incidentally, CF is so expensive these days - they've got quite a demand for the stuff!). Carbon withstanding impact - depends. It is designed to take stress in a particular direction, and bike frames are designed with that in mind. Truth be told they can take a licking and still be good. On the other hand I've had aluminium fail without warning and dump me on the road. Not funny! I think certain types of crack can be fixed by an expert, but only if it is limited to the gel coat. On the whole I would say CF is as durable as aluminium. I had a Trek aluminium frame replaced under warranty years ago when the bottle cage mounting lugs tore out leaving hairline cracks which couldn't be fixed.

And there are great used bikes on this site as well as www.bikebay.co.za. I'd personally go for a good used carbon frame (inspected carefully, of course) and put the rest of my budget into good spec components.

For what it's worth I switched to the Fizik Arione some time ago after struggling for a year to get used to a Selle Italia- instant relief! As a previous post noted, everyone's' different and it may not work for you. It is a long saddle, but I find that gives me a lot of room to move and change positions for climbing or hammering along on the flat. The important thing with any saddle is to check the setup properly. Even a great saddle won't work if it's off from level, or too far forward or back.

This thread has been an interesting one to follow. The OP came online to let the cycling community know what had befallen him and his friends, and many others (including the residents) have, unsurprisingly, responded with (some) acrimonious justifications for their thoughts and actions. Sadly, though, the thread has evolved in a direction that will not yield any real and lasting benefits unless we make a conscious effort right now to change things. We have heard that meetings have been held, but as yet there is no improvement to the situation. I, for one, would like to thank everyone involved for at least making the effort to organise and attend those meetings. What I would like to suggest is the following - can everyone interested in seeing a resolution make at least 1 constructive suggestion to help resolve the dispute over road use in the Cradle? Perhaps input from this can be used by the good people at the meetings to drive a plan using contributions from the cyclists and residents. Here's my thought - can Central Gauteng Cycling make the Cradle issue a priority for cycling advocacy, and assist in turning it into a win-win for cyclists and residents alike? How? Set cycling safety and advocacy as a high priority. Engage proactively with the community, cyclists and law enforcement to ensure that road safety is practiced by all parties, and transgressors are educated. More signage and visible safety patrols (CGC marshals?). Now, before the flamers get going and criticize CGC for other unrelated issues, or me for saying that they're not involved - the idea here is to demonstrate cycling advocacy. I've looked at the CGC website (Vision, Mission etc) and there's no mention of safety or advocacy. I find that quite disconcerting, and I wonder why I have to give them R75 every year if they can't act on my behalf to keep my recreational riding safe. Please try and make some suggestions that can perhaps assist the folks at these meetings, and show some good faith in resolving the impasse. Keep it clean (slagging off just goes nowhere, but humour is always welcome!).

Truth be told, I was the one who painted the bars to improve their appearance after refinishing the bike. The bars were in pristine condition when I got them, but I felt they could look better by respraying a deep gloss black. There were no blemishes or scratches on them at the time. As far as claiming against the manufacturer goes, I don't believe you can do that once you've substantially altered the component (and respraying certainly counts in that direction). Fact of the matter is, I have to take responsibility for this. Either the respray contributed to the failure (unlikely in my opinion) or I failed to foresee that a failing component would have a potentially serious result. That bar gave a number of years of good service, and I don't think Ritchey can be held accountable after that. You live (if you're lucky) and learn. Ain't gonna make that mistake again!

I got it about two or three years ago from a friend' date=' in perfect condition at the time. I re-fitted it about 18 months ago, after rebuilding the bike. It was resprayed, but not heavily sanded for preparation. The lacquer overcoat may have hidden signs of cracking. The stem bolts aren't really rusted, that's more like oxidation (yes, I know that's really rust by another name ). I checked the stem today, and there are no signs of protrusions on it, and no scars on the bar where it clamped in. No, that's just the original anodizing peeking out from under the lacquer overpaint. I did go down once before - a wet road and the front washed out in a corner. Only apparent damage was to ego' date=' the bike was fine (I broke it's fall). I can't say I've ever seen such a recommendation, TBH. Wasn't creaking at all (although I wish I could say the same for myself after that!). I keep the bike well serviced and tuned, and as noise-free as possible, and I notice things creeping up (well, most of the time). I think the lesson from this (and the great comments) is that this area and the seat post should be treated with care. Treat scratches with HUGE suspicion, and replace if you're in any way nervous about the integrity of the part. I've ordered the new bar and stem with oversize (38.1mm) centre section and a 4 bolt stem. The thing that really annoys me now is not the cost of the new bits, but having to buy new bar tape again, because I did this 3 months ago. I'm partial to the Fizik tape, and the price we pay here is ridiculous (compared to CRC). However, I plan to be riding again this weekend, so no time to waste.

Okay' date=' here's an interesting one. You've all had a chain-ring tattoo by now, but how about a chainring snakebite? http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1069v2.jpg I'm still trying to figure out how that one got there. Sure - hope these help. Below the stem, from the side http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1064v2.jpg Behind and slightly above the stem, looking forward http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1067v2.jpg Straight ahead http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1066v2.jpg The broken off bar http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/grahamr_photo/F430/IMG_1065v2.jpg