Zebra

…still angry at at the b@stards for over-painting the BEAUTIFUL mural of Dennis H.; …they ‘tolerated’ it - possibly - for around 30 days, then took grey paint and painted over his face, rather than admit they have a problem… B@stards. I will confront Alan W. on this when next we meet.

I will call it in, esp. since I commute past that very bush. I did once call in even-worse bush ‘jutting out massively’ on Ou Kaapse Weg, as did one or 2 other Hubbers, and a week or 10 day later some brush cutting well into yellow line space did occur, so maybe there is hope… Chris

Excellent, will investigate solution #2 first, and report back, Dankie!

Hi, my Magene Radar rear light, as well as my Garmin Edge both have TETHERS, for backup secure-ness. For added safety; i wish to ADD a tether to my un-tethered (particularly heavy) Ravemen PR1200 light - it IS heavy, and has come off -just the once - crossing exposed (in-tar, but beeeg gaps) railway lines - at speed - in the working harbour. I have an idea on how to mcgyver a leash ATTACHMENT POINT, but a few questions arise: 1. Other than Takealot, do any Cycle Shops sell (just) a leash? 2. is there any way to convert/adapt a keel-type attachment (see photo) mechanism to a Quarter-turn mount? 3. Any ideas on how to attach a leash, since no provision exists? My idea is to place a washer under the Micro bolt, and attach the leash to the washer… (I have been using the light UPSIDE down, due to space constraints; the buttons are then HIDDEN from my view… but this light only needed next AUTUM for early morning commutes, but am looking for an elegant solution!) All suggestions considered! Thanks, Chris

Popped around to see a mate with an Engineering workshop, here in Paarden Eiland, who is also an avid cyclist/downhiller, etc, somhe could make up some ‘spacers’ for me, to ‘space out’ round clamps on an ovalized bar… He simply SWITCHED the clamps from the ‘regular’ outside position, where the handlebar is indeed Oval, to INSIDE the tri-bars, where the bars are - briefly - round before quickly ovalizing… Et Voila! Problem solved with a simple positional switch, and he is now machining (or, rather, 3D printing…) a spacer to enable fitment of my Garmin bracket, so an easy (and safe…) win! b8209e50-e9a7-4965-953d-5d376d7bcde2.mov

Hmm, was hoping Tri-Bars saved me more that 40-bloody seconds on a 30km ride in to work! (back to the drawing board!). And, whilst I could 'hold' a 40km time-trial 'Tri-position easily when I was 35 years old, at 60+, them bones and that back FELT the ride in, had to 'untangle' my shoulders a good few times - ouch! But, hopefully, the 2nd time is easier! Chris

Can confirm that the (basic) Giant Revolt is pretty capable on the road - I am a 2x fan, so there is that, and then it has near road bike-like handling, obviously a touch heavier, then 38mm tyres, and a more relaxed geometry, but it has nice road manners, and is obviously pretty good on gravel, etc, too! My bike was a new-old-stock 22/23 model, so came in at R25k, so well below your R40k budget - yet I feel it offers a lot for that money - YMMV, but am happy with my choice! Chris

I am in the fortunate position of being able to commute EARLY morning, so hardly a car to concern me, and then get a lift home with Wife (we work together), thus avoiding CRAZY afternoon traffic… But, OBSERVING traffic in my neighborhood (Houties), whilst me behind the wheel, I live at the very top of a 1km hill, and said hill has a DOWNHILL IMPEDENCE, but even if i have right of way (technically), the bakkies and 4x4’s will force their way through; same when they overtake early-morning domestic workers and gardeners; ZERO thought that the ‘obstacle’ (!) is on their side, rather BLAST through, and put my car off the side of a VERY narrow road… The bigger/fancier the car, the more ‘on the phone’, the worse the problem.. (a BIT of stereotyping, here!)

Not what you asked, but some years back i have done multiple-day races in Assos, and i NOW cannot speak highly-enough of Ciovita; a great price-point, and supremely comfortable - YMMV. Chris

Test fitted the tri-bars on the Revolt last nite, they work fairly well, better than i was expecting, and this weekend will make some adjustments to increase the safety of a round clamp on an (slightly ovalized) bar, and report back here…

I have 2x on my Revolt, but am unsure how LARGE you can go? @ChrisF What i FEEL you have wrong-way-round, it that ALLOY Revolt’s PRE-DATE full-carbon Revolts; of that i am pretty sure. …unless you are asking if an older Carbon is a better bet than a newer Aluminium? Unsure! Cheers Chris

Appreciated, and I travel thru Atlantic Seaboard daily... this is the charging cable 'end' I am looking for...

Hi - anyone in the Cape that can do a Garmin SWIM 2 battery replacement? (was gifted a well-working watch, with a tired battery!) If anyone has a spare/not-being-used CHARGER, (the one for Swim 2,I will happily buy it off of you - many, many Garmin's do share the SAME charger, but not my old Forerunner 35, which has the 'clip-on' charger type...! I am aware I can send it in to Garmin for 'assessment', and then likely get a new watch at X%, but would like to try the battery route. thanks Chris 072 211 7725

IIRC, GP Lama (serious/in-depth/trusted reviewer) was pretty impressed with the unit; maybe check out YouTube, he had quite a comprehensive review….

I get it, thanks for the Italics, now the iPhone story makes sense!

These were the bars i was discussing, (Bike Hub buy & sell…) and am now buying them and will - safely - make them work, with a small engineered adjustment. Will reply here in the new year, when they are fitted, and i can give them a ‘tri’ ! Chris

At 6 foot 3” (1m92), feel free to try out my ‘bog standard’ ‘L’ revolt, to see if it is a better fit for you, but you are right on the upper limit for a ‘L’,… I see there is 30mmof difference in ETT length between ‘L’ and ‘XL’…

Interesting. What size did you end up getting? Since there is a size ‘overlap’ between M/L and L suggested fitting, etc. M: 169–181 cm (5' 7"–5' 11") ML: 174–186 cm (5' 9"–6' 1") L: 179–191 cm (5' 10"–6' 3") The shorter stem would be easier to try out than changing out the seat-post, which is a very bike-specific shape- and fit-… Keen to see what works for you… @ChrisF?

…battling to,’get’ the analogy, Dicky; please explain…?! Dankie

Yes,menjoy indeed; great value for a fun package!

What idea has been ‘planted’, cannot now be UNplanted! 🤣

Am no expert, but having done some extended touring with heavy-ish loads, a spoke-count of 32 - 36 is recommended over the ‘usual’ 28 in the rear wheel. In the old days, there was also the option of using non-butted spokes for additional strength (citation/confirmation needed!), but POSSIBLY start by looking at a higher spoke-count REAR wheel - will let others with more experience chime in. Cheers Chris

Yes, context indeed! I grew up doing Tri’s, and have done a fair bit of long-distance cycling (multiple-weeks type stuff…)… …so i reckon tri bars set up right could be an aid (and a ‘drug!) to my future riding; would like to do a Munga one day, chasing @Buff…

Ok, EARLY 60’s baby here, it all relative!!! 😅

Have been using SQLabs 'inner bar ends' as 'pseudo' tri-bars, for many years, but both they and Spirgrips only fit ROUND handlebars....