It's hard to beat working with good bikefitter. That being said, good bikefitters are very, very few and far between. The problem with measure-and-calculate bike fitting is that it relies on average assumptions. Bell curves suggest most of us are anything but average. Any system that uses physical measurements to calculate a bike sizing (including guarantees of decimal-point accuracy) has to be viewed with complete skepticism. But worse is that, even when a proper pre-purchase physical assessment and functional assessment has been performed, by a good fitter, most people display widely diverse biomechanical responses during a dynamic fitting on a bike. In addition these diverse responses change depending on the load, fatigue and neural stresses on the rider. What I'm saying is that you can feel free to plug-and-play bikefit measurements - the web is full of different "systems", each guaranteed to give you a different result, but you are ballparking about as accurately as a new salesman in a bike shop using "rule of thumb". The minimum requirement is to get a flexibility and functional physical assessment done, then factor in your riding style, requisites, goals and limitations. This will get you close to a good approximation based on your overall height . Then it is down to the fitter and his ability to take you through a dynamic fitting to achieve the desired result. And, yes, I've heard all the arguments about how you can do this at home with your ex-pro buddy, but really, you can't - at least not any better than the new salesman in a shop with some internet reading behind him. To the OP - are you young or old, flexible or stiff, muscled or slim, chunky or skinny? Are you trying to podium or are you riding to win age-group or just have some fun and stay healthy? A bigger frame will increase head-tube height but also increase reach. The stay lengths/wheelbase/saddle height are generally irrelevant. What is important is your ability to get proper saddle setback (and NOT the calculated kind) and a useable saddle height that lets you keep control of the pedal throughout the pedal stroke, and most importantly, a comfortable front-of-bike position that permits some option for anterior pelvic rotation and lessening of load on the hands and arms. This means, contrary to some of the popular myths being bandied about, a raised bar height with properly assessed balance and reach. If you are having lower back or hand pain, the larger frame might be a solution. Frankly, stem reach adjustments down to 60mm are absolutely fine and won't materially affect bike handling for our purposes. But slammed stems and the pro-wannabe long reach look are just guarantees of overuse injuries lying in wait.