D Vader

Ikon rear is good, but I think there are much better front tyres than Ardent ( its heavy without the performance benefit, rather do Rocket Ron 2.25 snakeskin, light, grippy and pretty tough)

Indoor training is probably much more structured and time-efficient. BUT I would rather slowly grind away at my wrists with a cheese grater than cycle indoors. ( riding a TT roadbike is 2nd least fun way to cycle)

There is a medium Santa cruz Highball in the Classifieds section on the Hub, I do not think you could find a better bike for that price.

Is this for service( work on bike) or shopping. For service I'd say Torqzone,( Doornkloof) not that close, but they do a pick-up service, in the east. Can't think of a more professional set-up in PTA ( or pretty much anywhere)

This idea that the customer is always right, is a problematic myth. Dude, the black looks great, don't be difficult. I think you have had pretty good service from BBT.

You can probably do more structured training on a road bike ( on the road ) and, in general , the maintenance is cheaper, but a MTB is a lot more fun and versatile. I sold my road bike a long time ago.

Well OP, once you have gotten the 27.5 suspension set up right and have done some rides along your regular routes, let us know what the difference was. I also upgraded from 29er to 26er by giving my old 26er to my wife and thereby upgrading my status and home brownie points.

Cause all your mates will be ahead of you:) ( Can't get the smiley icon to work )

Sterkte Johan This is close to my commute route. Makes me livid! We need a cycle safety awareness campaign aimed at the taxi industry! Also, wear neon and use lights day and night.

Santini and De Marchi are good, but I have not found the De Marchi to be worth the price. Ftech carbon bibs are my favourites, Italian at a much better price and feel.

Glad to see this is still on. Barberton Ultra is one of the toughest! MTB is RSA would be poorer without Barberton, just a pity it isn't more central.

Only 3 gram weight reduction, but the lever now being closer to the bars may suit people, also seems to have better modulation with pull rather than push ' plunger'. the callipers stay the same so you should be able to merely change/ upgrade. I like it!

Good to hear others answer this question, as I had to sort this out a week ago, found a similar profile hanger and just needed to drill a hole for the hanger bolt, seems even better than the original hanger ( more robust where needed). Such a common problem, we should have someone specializing in this. I think hangers are 'outdated' and cause more problems than they prevent, hence the newer direct mounts.

What pressures are you running? I am on 1.1 to 1.2 bar and they grip really well.

Very good price! I would pay a lot more, they are absolutely fantastic! ( 2.35 snakeskin Pacestar) Riding it on my SS now ( front) and totally in love, esp. on dry loose over hardpack. Don't let this get out, others will want them

Silverback. Much better wheels. Better cranks and better brakes. Better rear shock. Better aftersales service ( actually great service in my experience). All the above already stated by other posts. So why am I writing this?

I usually ride with 1 finger on the lever. Otherwise, just turn off the switch in your head that registers the rattle. You could possibly put some fibre washers in.?

I have a X-lite carbon, straight steerer ( with taper converter if needed) 29er fork. R1800 if interested.

I would say YES! Lock your shock at every possible opportunity, esp on the road, on every climb and obviously when you stand. I would go so far as to say your shock should be locked as a standard setting and only unlocked when really needed.( OK not really, but always on the tar) Every little bop sucks energy.

How was the rest of your service? If that was also bad then I would complain. On the other hand, I think it should be a crime to be offend able. We all need a sense of humour to handle Life. Look at the bigger picture/ pants, there are far more serious issues to get upset about.

Sounds like a factory/manufacturing dud, RR snakeskin has served me very well, get about 6000km as a front tyre. They seem to last well and then fail totally. Use Maxxis Ikon as rear tyre, lighter, faster rolling, more durable, and oddly better grip in the wet.

I just go through to the back and all and there I find it, but I don't use it.

Sounds like Great Britain for service!! Seriously though, my Rider 35 stopped working on the Pioneer ( day 1, must have been an EMP my ' vloermoer' sent out after everything went wrong on a hard day). I handed it in on Thursday, last week and the unit was fixed and returned by Friday. Well done Bryton and Eagle canyon cycles!!! I can now get back to the pre-occupation with data while Pedalling.

I had the same problem, as posted before, with this XT brakeset, after 2 warranty replacements, I got rid of them. The previous XT brakes are very reliable, easy to get pads and easy to service, perhaps get those for now ( about the same weight also). You should get a reasonable 2nd hand set for about R1500.

Please remember to Copperslip the thread onto which the cassette turns, if you do not do this it can be a real pain removing it ( it 'binds'), also lube ( spray light lube) into the cassette between the sleeve and cassette or it will get noisy later. I am sure Wyatt Earp already knows this, but just in case someone else is doing for you.