RodTi

Thanks W456 - keep us informed!

Cool beans! If you're struggling to upload the picture - let me know, and I will put it up for you.

I'll BUMP this for you for a bit, to make sure it gets seen. Can you give any further details about the bike? Components? Size? Model?

Sound advice this! They've seen you coming from a mile-off. There will be more, and better deals if you are patient. Good luck!

+1

Have no idea what brand name - might also be the KMC(??) - was just told it's a strong (and cheap) BMX chain.... presumably also a 1/8th...

Wonder if old 'Roberta' ever hangs around at the bottom of long climbs, waiting for unsuspecting male cyclists to come along.... to then crush them.

Words fail me...

Had a close look at the tensioner setup last night - and realised where the main problem was... In short [ ], the back end of the locator-tab, that slots into the dropout is too wide. The wheel nut is pushing up against it, which means the front end of the tab is not sitting flush against the dropout, as the skewer passes through it to screw in to the adjuster cap. I mentioned that I replaced my original skewer since I noticed a bend in the end of it - this was no doubt caused by the skewer being tightened with it not running straight. At the time, I noticed that the adjuster cap was sitting skew (which saw me examine the skewer and find the bend), but assumed this was because of the bend in the skewer [ stoopid me] - I now realise that the deformity was caused because of the adjuster cap pulling the skewer out of alignment, which in turn was caused by the locator-tab not sitting flush with the dropout.... The above has been confirmed by me not being able to get the new adjuster cap level on the new skewer either... This morning, I popped into a local engineering shop, and at a cost of Twenty ZA Ront, had them take 2mm off the back-end of the tab... This should prevent the wheel nut from forcing it out of alignment, which will hopefully allow the adjuster cap to bite the tab as it's supposed to - and have everything sit flush against the dropout, and thereby simultaneously prevent the tensioner from pivoting...

EggsOEWT&T being the first Hubber to guess [being the operative word? - Cyndi Lauper?? ] correctly, takes the pack of smarties (and a little something extra)! Send me a PM! See here and here... Yowzers. From this famous cover of Rolling Stones [check out those cover stories ] to this... [sigh]...

+1

What's wrong with 'Skin' shots? Some of the articles are a bit on the light side, but the home improvement section must be seen to be believed....

Absolutely - if your package is a large/valuable one... I occasionally order something for <R150 - not worth spending more on postage than the item being ordered - and then go Royal Mail...

Nope! But interesting guesses those!

Que?

That depends on how many smarties are in it.

Uhm.... Nope. C'mon Hubbers - Smarties on the line. U know u want some...

Chrome has a sense of humour...

A box of smarties to the first Hubber who works out who this is....

Did I mention I'm heavy? Chainline is straight - new chain, new sprocket at the back, new MonoVeloce SS specific blade up front... The problem presents at the tensioner. As mentioned, I have no doubts for the many/few(?) that might run with no problems, you will find many/few(?) who do have problems... In my case - I'm convinced that the skewer cap not taking enough thread on the skewer, and therefore not biting into the locator tab sufficiently to assist the adjustment bolt in preventing the tensioner from moving, is where things are going south... I don't want the hassle of fidgeting with the SS - so I'll either get this sorted, or go for a completely different option.

+1... Depending on what susser it is, you'd presumably have quite a bit of movement on the chain line as the suspension is activated?

Drongo - Surly looks the bizz, but DN's Gusset looks a treat too, at a fifth of the price... Did spot quite a few comments at the Gusset's review about using Loctite to keep things in place... That could work, no?

Hey DN - like the idea that it comes with it's own skewer nut, presuming that unlike the standard nut, it has little to no recess? It's design though is pretty similar to the one I have on - and mine isn't working... As mentioned, I need to constantly tighten up the adjuster bolt, since it eventually loses tension and pivots away from the chain.... Thinking about it some more - does the skewer nut offer additional force to prevent the pivot? I suspect that's where I'm picking up the problems on my one... With my skewer nut not being able to 'bite' up against the locator tab as much as what it probably should - it might be why the tensioner is able to pivot as easily as it does... Guess the skewer nut in addition to the adjuster bolt would work at keeping the tension up??

So I had a look around at various sites last night, getting a feel about tensioners and the like. Appears that they can be categorised, broadly, into two main categories - namely those that attach at the back - and those that are connected near to/on the BB. Of those at the back, they either - a.)dial/slot/screw only into/onto the existing hanger; or b.)as above AND are attached/connected to the QR skewer slot as well (like the one I have). With this being said - and based purely on my reading of various review placed up by cyclists over several years, on various sites - the following becomes apparent: 1.) Irrespective of the make or model, home-made/modified or bought new - almost all of them have users reporting issues pertaining to "loss of tension"... 2.) The above applies irrespective of whether the pulley/tensioner pushes up or down on the chain. 3.) Many comments are made regarding "having to re-tighten the bolt" - with these being spread out over those who occasionally do it whilst routinely cleaning the bike at home, or those who have to make adjustments whilst on the bike/trail. In short [], it appears that whilst there are obviously those that are fortunate in having no problems - there are plenty of SS riders who have issues with tensioners... Many of the replies to above, suggested the user check chain alignment and setup issues (as per the instructions of the specific tensioner)... However, there are those who record being 100% certain that all is as it should be, and it taking experimenting with 2/3 models before finding one that worked for them... Given that the magic ratio (thereby negating the need for a tensioner) apparently works a treat until your chain eventually starts stretching [] - for those who do not have the option of horizontal dropouts - the tensioner is a unavoidable part of the setup... I have now learnt that I should probably have gone for something like the Surly Singulator (or similar), as it being an example of a.) above, would not have interfered with my skewer... With this being said - the Surly also comes standard with a tension spring - whereas my current tensioner relies on its adjustment bolt 'staying put', as it were.... I will therefore try my hand at modifying what I have, and will look a-fresh as building my own from an old rear mech I have lying at home. Suffice it to say - if you're converting to a SS - put some thought into what tensioner you are going to purchase, since once the conversion is done, it remains the only part that could require continued 'adjustment-input' going forward - and if this can be avoided by choosing the right tensioner, then by all means, try and do so!

Had a listen - Also, quite a big thumbs up from the man: "British artist Morrissey, known for outspoken skepticism towards modern music, hailed the album on his official website True To You saying that "if there is any justice in the world Young The Giant will own most of it by August". He also expressed that "once every three thousand years, a band comes along who restore [the] precious component of faith". Morrissey himself was the vocalist of the 1980s band The Smiths."