Part 2 My heart sank as the police officer walked around to the driver’s side, but there was no need, you see Alfonso (the police officer) had not seen a vehicle the whole day (it was just after 14h00) and simply wanted to chat, no need to produce any documents at all. We chatted about where we had come from, where we were going and the condition of the roads. When I complimented him and his countryman on the condition of the road we were on he beamed a smile back at me that matched his crisp white shirt as he showed his pride in his country. I think we chatted for at least 20 minutes when I bid him good bye, waved at the soldier but ignored the sandbag man. I still could not see the rear LMG position perhaps there was none. The trip to Machaila was uneventful but the town itself was reminiscent of those towns you see in the old spaghetti westerns. The dusty streets were empty and people eyed us suspiciously over the rim of their beer glasses from the veranda of the lone pub as we rolled into town. All that was needed to complete the scene was Terence Hill’s blue eyes, Bud Spencer’s large frame and a tumble weed blowing across the road and we would be on the set of Trinity is My Name! Tracks 4 Africa guided us without a glitch to the Machaila Community Campsite, which was even signposted if you cared to glance a little higher than normal at the transmission line poles. The camp was deserted and there were no visible tyre tracks so we picked our spot for the night. As we were unpacking I noticed that we had been joined by a lone young billy goat. He made himself comfortable under our vehicle seeking respite from the hot sun, I could not see the rest of his herd nearby. After we unpacked we enjoyed our first 2M beer of the day while we waited for someone to arrive looking for payment. An hour passed and I was becoming uncomfortable with the fact that we had not paid, if you haven’t paid you are effectively squatters in a small town in a foreign country, this can’t be good. I decided to walk to the closest settlement to see if I could resolve this. I knew communication was going to be a challenge but I was ready for this. You see before we left home I loaded Google Translate - Portuguese language onto my mobile and it works like a charm. All you have to do is speak the phrase in English into the speaker, check that the responding text is correct and Google translates into the correct phrase in Portuguese which you can play back to the other party, no need to worry about bad pronunciation. We had loads of fun on our way to Punda Maria with a variety of phrases but now to test it in the real world. I arrived at the first settlement after a walk through the veld and did the polite thing which was to draw the attention of one of the inhabitants so that they would invite me into their area. I called out until a got the attention of an old lady who invited me in. She then instructed a young girl to deal with me. Great this was obviously a young girl who had been educated and can speak English, no need for Google! The one phrase that we practiced over and over was “Can you speak English?” I was mistaken English was not being taught here, no worries I was really proud of what I thought was a perfect rendition of this phrase with little to no detectable accent. “Você pode falar em Inglês” I said with absolute conviction, the blank stare I got in return told me in no uncertain terms that I was fooling myself. No worries Google to the rescue and I spoke into my device checked the text which read “No translation available without internet connection” We could only get the text translation not the voice. Huh, now what? We were reduced to hand signals and pointing eventually she said the word dinero and I nodded. Right we were getting somewhere, she pointed to another settlement and indicated that she would show me the way. As is the African custom I had to walk in front while she walked 5 meters behind me calling and pointing out the correct route every time I strayed off course. We arrived at the settlement and waited to be invited in which we were and my guide took over the communication and we were eventually joined by another young lady and my guide left. It took me some time to find out her name was Rose and she produced a book where other travellers had signed in. I scanned through other entries and saw that we were the first visitors they had in a month, I could also work out what the payment was R80 / vehicle and R40/person. I signed the book paid the money plus a little extra for a beaming Rose and returned back to our campsite. Great we were now legally here and under the protection of the village and their Chief. We can now safely settle in for the night we were legal.