NINER_boy

Some more pics...

Hi there HUBBERS Here my latest project SS Now all I need is Fork... HAPPY DAYS!!! DSC_7688.pdf DSC_7694.pdf

Hi Anticlimb ZTR Rims are really nice. I had Mavic CS29 wheels, and "upgraded" to a set ZTR Flow's with Hope hubs. I said "upgraded" as the ZTR Flow's are slightly heavier, but reliability was my main concern (my Mavic rear rim cracked longitudinally between some of the spokes). My ZTR Flow and Hope hub build came to 1850g. Me being 105kg's (that is why I went for the Flow), the strength of the wheel and build was important, as I like to fit and forget... And this is exactly what I got with my new wheels. One comment I have to make, lateral stiffness and wheel strength had my RIP9 feel like a NEW bike on the ZTR's!!! Really GOOD. In terms of lateral stiffness (witch is what you want on a 29er wheel), the Stan's beats the Mavic HANDS DOWN!!! I must add, the Stan's was built specific to my weight and riding style... Tubeless on the Stan's Flow is also rock solid. Be warned, the GEAX range of tyres fits REEEAALLLYYY tight on the Stan's rims. See this article : http://twentynineinches.com/2011/05/15/the-state-of-tubless-ness-tubeless-re-try-part-ii/ Recommendation for a build, visit Mike's Bikes, Greenside JHB, 011-888-8868. In my experience, really solid advice and they meet your demands / needs in a reliable answer with a well suited product. I had my wheelset built there, and 100% after about 6 months now... RE the rimtape, use the recommended STAN's rimtape width for the rim. Buy yourself a roll and keen in your spares box. Oh yes, the Flow's are recommended rider weight is around the 110kg mark. Happy building and then Hooping...

Hi "Bigger" HUBBERS Here is my pride and joy... Loving it more every day Enjoy

Hi Panini Between those tho sets: Easton EA70 all the way. My recommendation to you though would be... (based on your weight, same as me ) Have yourself a custom set of wheels built; Hope Pro II hubs Stan's ZTR Flow rims (the Flow is slightly heavier than the Crest, but BOMB-proof!!!) I have a set like those (29er), and they are a fit and forget item. Just the way I like it, low maintenance but RELIABLE. If you need some info on someone who cam help with a proper wheel build, PM me. Regards

Hi there Kandui I had the same issue. KCNC is your problem... Get yourself a proper seatclamp and do the following; 1. CLEAN everything (seatpost, seat tube, clamp ect. Degrease and scrub if you have to) 2. Lightly grease everything (seat rails, tubes, post) 3. Assemble 4. TORQUE to spec Problem solved. If you buy components, follow this guideline: Cheap, Strong, Light... Choose any 2

Covie, do you work for CWC?

I believe in paying for what I want / are getting, but that will still be (R200 + int shipping + local taxes) overcharged!!!

I just cannot see / believe a company would WANT to make LESS money than they currently are...

The reason for my concern is the following: 1. Say the current local retail for said item is R1000 2. New structure with CWC and CRC, CWC could sell the item for R600 (all imports and taxes incl) 3. Why would they give R400 of their profit away if the local market "would" allow for a asking price of R1000??? Not so sure the benefit will reach us in full. Because, as things are now, we are being SHAFTED badly (price wise)

My wife will have to pull up her socks... She's got competition!!!

Hubbers My biggest concern is the following: 1. Do we "lose" the price advantage of CRC? As CWC now imports and still have to add their cut on the deal... Reason for me asking: Full CRC retail price + shipping + import duties = At least 40% less locally (if you shop clever) 2. Does CWC now solely import CRC items? 3. Would we as individuals still be able to buy from CRC? Lets hope this boosts some competitive pricing locally, because for me to import at full retail, pay shipping and import taxes, and STILL up to 40% less than local prices, I just find ludicrous...

What a MONSTER of a machine!!! I LOVE the NINER brand, especially in black. That Air9 Carbon is the shizzzz!!! Definitely NO RWC for that man, just riding... Enjoy it Bud

100% Agreed with ROCK!!!!!!!!! Chains, handlebars.... I see nothing that is 29er specific in this equation. ROCK, you rock!!!

Hi there guys Any suggestions on dealers in JHB area? Thx

THX a mil Splat!!! That will solve my slipping / O-ring breakage issue. Regards

Hi there Hubbers Anybody with another idea / clamp for use on a Magicshine light (MJ816) OTHER than the supplied O-rings as a handlebar mount? Any advice will be welcome. Happy Hooping...

OH YES... On a 29er HT rig...

Hi there guys In the process of building my SS rig (waiting for frame, then just need to get a fork ) Will post pics... My question, what would you consider a the best all round gear ratio??? I am thinking around 34x18 Any suggestions??? Keep em Rolling...

Hi Pusher I have tried a few of the sealants on the market, and I LOVE Joe's the best. Reasons: 1. Cafe Latex; Made like rim strips in the inside of my tyre, IE no sealant available to seal the holes... 2. Stan's; Cool product, but within 2 weeks I remove the white pulp, and had to top up sealant quantity. In my opinion that pulp lowers the sealing ability, as ALL the latex particles accumulate and then not enough to seal... 3. Joe's; I have had months of riding (in the same conditions as all the other sealants) and nor pulping or stripping issues. Joe's is now the ONLY sealant I use. I hope this helps Regards

OK, point taken. Me, I am just a Dirt Monkey riding a MTB.

Cearus You will have to approach this methodically... START: 1. Get your new pedals and cleats fitted. Make sure you are happy with the cleat position 2. Get your saddle position sorted, as mentioned, knee relative to pedal axle... 3. Get the stem length fitted as per your requirements. If you move the cleat forward or backwards, you have to start all over to getting the seat aligned. By the way, RE the mention of more power output with a "backwards" seat fit... When you look at all the TDF guys during a TT, they keep on slipping forward and their knee seems to be in front of the pedal axle line, and this during MAX EFFORT... I wonder if that should not be an indication of max power per stroke???