NINER_boy

PS, cannot remember if you HAVE TO remove the whole crank. Wait, will go check quickly... ... ... ... You might get the outer ring fitted, but I think you will have to remove for the inner... Should take you around 35min... Let me know

Hi Kandiu You CAN do it all yourself with the appropriate size allen keys... (and a torque wrench) The crank ununstalls EASY (I also have XX, and do ALL my maintenance myself). For the crank, I think it is an 8mm allen key Just "loosen" the inside bolt, and this will push on the outer bolt, and retract the crank, out. Then replace the rings. The torque for that is 7Nm. Then fit the crank, and tighten the inside bolt to 50Nm. I can mail you a tech manual with this section explained. Just too big to attach on this forum. Let me know Whoilla, done and dusted.

IMO, "softies" ride LEKKER!!! 29er for life!!! I have a dual sus 29" and a Single Speed 29" bike, and will buidl / buy myself nothing other than 29". Loving it!!!

Sorry, I ment Phone...

Phoen the guys there Andre or Kerrigan. They are VERY helpfull. Happy Hoopin

Hi #RAH# Yip, I have tried that stuff before. I got around 90km out of an application (two rides) before I had to reapply (in the conditions where I stay). That was not enough, and I tried some other stuff as well. Using ChainL no5, and getting around 200km out of an allpication. This suits me better Enjoy your riding

You will be waisting in the LOOONG run. Now it is cheap and "half" OK. Ride on a dirt doad (not even racing hard), and in a few weeks you will start breaking spokes. Then fix and true the wheel. That will KEEP ON happening. Then, in a month or two from now, the BB will bo. Then in a mont or so from that the hubs will be shot, and wou will have to buils new wheels. And it will go on and on like that. So, pay double that (still not a lot for a MTB), and it will at least last you a year or two before the real expenses start again. Good luck

Hi MTB@cgcycling SICK bike!!!!! As I understood, the RDO was going to be a problem (price wise) and maybe NOT important. I am glad to see that they sorted that out, ai I thing we would have been at a BIG loss!!!! GREAT bike! I love it

Pleasure For me this is a "help and advice" forum, and not a slanting opportunity. Glad I could assist

Hi SkyLark The "gap" will always be there, bigger and smaller jumps in rear cog tooth count changes up or down (2, 3 or 4 tooth jumps per change). The point is, that the "gap" will be MORE accentuated with a bigger F ratio (bigger than a 1.5 ratio), and LESS accentuated with a smaller F ratio (smaller that 1.5 ratio). Now, you will have to find what works for you, but the solution to your "gap" is a smaller ratio between your 2 F chainrings. Cherio

Only GREAT experience to talk of. Had a replacement issue sorted in NO tim eby Andre and the team. Will support them any day of the week. Very helpfull and knowledgeable staff. You will not be disappointed!!!

In SlyLark's initial question his chainring sizes were mentioned as 36/22 That gives a ratio of 1.64 That made his "jumps" between gears (when changing on his rear mech) too big, and made him heel that there was a hole with some gears missing. IE the difference in pedal cadence (or distance covered per pedal stroke) was just too big.

Hi Cearus Front chainring ratios you get by dividing the bigger chainring's tooth count by the smaller chainrings tooth count; EG Ex1; 27 / 40 tooth chainring: Calculation 40/27=1.54 That is a ratio of 1:1.54 Ex 2; 26 / 39 tooth chainring: Calculation 39/26=1.5 That is a ratio of 1:1.5 What that means is that you will get 1.5 times more out of the exact same gear (on the cassette) on the bigger chainring (39tooth) than the small chainring (26tooth). Then, have a look at the posted gear ratio table, and do the following excercise: 1. Same chainring size, compare the distance covered on a 17tooth sprocket (17t on your cassette) vs the distance covered on a 18tooth sprocket. Note the jump in distance covered. 2. Now, use a 18tooth sprocket configuration, and compare the distance covered on a 32tooth chainring vs a 33tooth chainring. Note the "smaller" difference. NB, in both excercises there was JUST a 1tooth jump or difference... That is the point I wanted to get across, that increasing or decreasing FRONT chainring sizes will keep your gears "closer" to each other, than to try and compensate with your cassette. IMO, the 2x10 guys (in my case SRAM) got the calculations spot on with Front chainring ratios, in order to get the most out of your drivetrain. I hope this clarifies some...

Hey guys Me again I have a XX setup with 26 / 39 chainring sizes. Before I had 27 / 40, that ended up to be too much on my 29" bike (bigger wheels needs a smaller ratio to turn them over). Now the 26 /39 is PERFECT. At the rear I run a 11-32 cassette, and have never ran out of revs (fast down OR slow up). For me, the smaller ratio defenitely works.

Use the attached Track cycling chart as a refernce and explanation in what I tried to describe in words... Track-Cycling-Gear-Chart.pdf

I hope it helps MORE than confuses...

Hi SkyLark My advice would be to try and mimick the ratios and sizes of a tried and tested 2x10 ratios. EG; SRAM XX crainring ratio: 26 / 39 (your setup 22 / 36) Now, this is a 1 x 1.5 ratio change between the small and large rings. Thinking like this, your chainring ratio should be 22 / 33, and is far from that. You increase the large ring T count to NOT run out of revs at top end, but in so doing increase the small blade / large blade ratios, witch in turn makes the ratio (and revolution ) jumps at the rear sprocket that much more accentuated. Another issue you have is here; 11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36 (and this is a 10 speed cassette nuance) You have a 9x setup, witch will make the jumps even bigger and earlier because you have one less gear. So with your increased ratio jump at the Front, this will accentuate the ratio jumps at the rear sprocket as well. My suggestion would be: Get your F gearing ratios sorted as per 1 x 1.5 small and bigblade ratios. Around 24 / 36 (if you want to keep the 36 bigger ring option for top end revs). This will get the ratio difference at the rear down, and your gears "closer" to each other. You will see that the difference in "granny gear" will be relatively unnoticeable. Have a look at a chart of gear ratio calculations for track bikes and SS bikes. Say all is measured in distance travelled per pedal stroke; You will see that 1T difference in the rear will make you travel FURTHER than the same ratio with 1T increase in front chainring (if that does make sence???) These are now assumed values for explanation purposes 32x18; Distance per one pedal stroke =2m 32x17; Distance per one pedal stroke =2.7m 33x18; Distance per one pedal stroke =2.15m I hope this helps. I will try and find this mentioned chart online. The bottom line is: for a 2x9, get your fron chainring ratios closer than what they are. Happy hooping

Hi Niner My suggestion would be to use GORE Ride On cables. I use the extra long sealed cables, and run them fill length on my bike. Runs like a CHARM!!! Cycles Africa supplies them to our LBS. Regards

Hi Sam Fisher Had the same problem on my XX bike. Check the limit screws on the FD, and set the tune a 1/2 turn at a time to push the lower lomit further out (towards the crank). What I eventually did, is; Set your rear cassette to the lowest gear (biggest cog, "still confusing" ) Front smallest chainring Set the inner limis screw so that the FD catches on the chain when your rear is in the biggest sprocket. Set the limit JUST so that the FD does NOT touch the chain (smallest chainring and biggest sprocket Rear). You should be set. Did that, and mine workis like a CHARM, and also had that trouble for looong

Hey Iron I love my Race Kings too, Do you run yours tubed or tubeless??? I had sidewall cutting issues with the RK tubeless. Now with tubes in my SS.

Hey Iron You well? That the NINER Air 9 frame that is SS compatible with horizontal dropouts? Sounds LEKKER!!!

Snake is FAKE!!! At least this one is...

Hi there Using a Polar CS500, Stans ZTR Flow 29er and Schwalbe RAcing Ralphs Wheel circumference came to 2240mm. How, Pump your tyres to desired preassure / spec GET ON YOUR BIKE, with kit, waterbottles and the lot Measure your front wheel's distance covered with one FULL revolution. Whoilla, there is your input measurement. Happy Hooping

Guys, This is a copy and paste from my previous comments: "Dude Motorists hate OTHER motorists!!!" "I've been in a bus on Swiss passes... The bus WAITS behind the cyclist (a commuter) until it is safe to pass, and no one is worse for ware. Best of it all, the busses are ALWAYS on time, even considering everyone else on the road!!!! Our biggest problem (or two), is 1. Cyclists are seen to have NO right to the road, where we actually have FULL right as a road user. 2. The laws of the road ( IE accommodating cyclist and other road users) are NOT being enforced by our authorities that we "pay". It is much easier to sit somewhere and catch you in the car doing 110km in a 100km/h zone. Yep, I am yet to see that that kills someone obeying ALL the rules of the road!!!" Sela

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