Minion

That's not how you spot a leg press

It is, but if the device offsets the pedal forward or back by a certain amount, then the two riders will not reach the top at the same time. There will be a few degrees (constant) lead or lag. You'd correct it by removing the timing chain (is that the right term?), rotating one of the cranks by a few degrees and reconnecting the chain.

I forgot it was a tandem. If you're clever about where you put the the pedal hole, you could ensure that you can offset the crank by a fixed number of teeth and still have perfect synchronisation.

Unless you are using oval chainrings, it will have now effect at all. It's a pretty rigid, low force system. Mechanically, it will behave as if there were a crank arm runny directly from the pedal axle to the BB axis.

1.) I'd say go for aluminium. Unless you start going for the really expensive stuff, carbon will not be lighter and the stiffness differences will be minimal, especially for 100mm stems. 2.) In the range of 0° to 10°, stem rise does not have a significant effect on reach (there's a 1.5mm difference between 100mm flat and 10°). Whether or not you flip the stem depends entirely on what handlebar height you need and the length of your headtube. Provided you don't go to extreme numbers of spacers, it will not affect your handling at all (given the same bar height). For example, if you have a long head tube and you need to get the handlebars low, you'd use few spacers and point the stem down. If you needed more height, you'd use more spacers and flip the stem up. 3.) I don't know much about MTB geometry. It would probably depend on the relative sizes and angles of the frame. 4.) Unless you want a specific stem that is hard to get, I'd wait until the setup before making the final decision.

I know a couple more who'll kick my ass without it . There's a big difference between someone thinking that there is a difference and proper evidence that there is actually a difference. Perception and placebo can have a huge effect.

It's worse than that. Studies suggest can be translated as: We did a test. We saw an increase of 2.9%. But we didn't do any more tests. They might show a power loss. We don't know (and are afraid to look closely in case we find out).

Where did you get your actual race number? All I've got is an email with start group and time. I've always assumed the number had something to do with the order in which you entered or the order in which you were selected. Or maybe something like: Licensed groups - 1-1000 Open Seeded - 1001-10000 Unseeded groups - 10001+

Here's the spreadsheet. You need to download the zip file and open in Excel, rather than in Google Docs: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B7EkDBvTf9KcMmNjNWEwM2ItMzkyMC00NmY5LTllOGYtNDg0MTU4ODJmMDEw It's a bit limited in that you can't select or deselect profiles and it only includes races I did in 2009. I suppose it could be converted to a Google spreadsheet or some website app that everyone could access and update. I don't really have the time or inclination to do that, but if someone else wants to they're welcome to use my data. Other sites where you can get GPS profiles (though finding them easily does require the rider to name them correctly): Garmin Connect Strava MapMyRide

I've not had very good experiences with sealant in road tyres. For most of the punctures I've had it has just resulted in a messy spray. To some extent it will seal the puncture as an emergency measure, but only if you pump the tyre up to a lower pressure. I've never had sealant hold at pressures over 100psi.

There was a discussion about this at the end of last year: https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/109836-getting-knocked-down/page__st__32 In addition to our whole road system being set up to accommodate vehicles driving on the left, riding on the left also gives you and other drivers much more time to react due to lower relative speeds and the impact forces if you do get hit are much lower. Under some typical riding conditions, it's the difference between having 4s to react and less than 1s to react. If you do get hit, a head-one collision can be equivalent to getting hit by a car moving at 100km/h vs. the equivalent of a 20km/h impact if you're hit from behind. For some perspective, the NCAP pedestrian safety tests are only carried out at 36km/h. Riding against the traffic flow can increase the likelihood of a collision as well as increase its severity.

Have a look at the VA results from Saturday's Berge and Dale. Three in the top 15.

I'm having an issue with a number of classified ads (including my own: http://www.thehubsa....-sl24-wireless/). The thumbnail for the ad is not showing, though clicking on it still shows the full image. Anyone else having this problem or is it just me?

That would make a good reality soap opera. We could place bets on how long it would take before the try to kill each other (or worse...).

It'll protect you in much the same way that the law will protect you if your unlocked car gets stolen after you parked it in the middle of Diepsloot late on Friday night. Just because the law says you're allowed to to do something doesn't necessarily mean you should do it (please note the difference between allow and must). I think I missed your point about licensing a bike.

Possibly also wrong. The section of the regulations regarding the shoulder lane specifically mentions motor vehicles, where the rest of the regulations mention only vehicles. The definition of motor vehicle is a bit hazy as to whether or not it includes a pedal cycle. The regulations also say pedestrians must be on the pavement if there is one, otherwise they must be near the edge of the road, facing in the direction of oncoming traffic i.e. walking on the right hand side most of the time.

We went past a bit later (think it was the same incident) and the taxi was still there with cops etc.

Extended range fuel tank.

Depends on the wheel. More aerodynamic = faster. Higher level wheels like Zipps and HEDs get even more of an advantage in a cross wind and have been improved to handle well in those conditions too. If you do a search, you will find lots on info and reports from riders who have comfortably ridden the latest Zipps in Cape Town winds.

Although it's something of a PR failure if you come on here to create hype about a product and then people have to go and search to figure out what it is.

The Wahoo app works with ANT+ power meters already. http://www.dcrainmak...DC+Rainmaker%29

It can use any ANT+ head unit. I've used it with an Edge 705 and 800, a PC with a USB ANT+ dongle and an iPod Touch with the Wahoo ANT+ dongle. If you've got a phone with an ANT+ chip (e.g. most of the Sony Ericsson Xperia range) you can even use that.

According to school trig, a 100km ride up a 10% gradient (eish!!) would result in a difference of only 500m if one was measuring true distance and the other horizontal distance. You'd measure whichever wheel the speed magnet is attached to (rear if using a Garmin sensor). I think the setting is buried somewhere under the individual bike profiles (or it is on the Edge 800, at least).

The problem with a wheel sensor is that it's only as accurate as the value you use for the wheel circumference. My personal experience is that the actual circumference is usually 10mm or so different from the standard values given in the manual. If all of you had correctly set your wheel sizes, you'd probably find the values are very similar. My road riding experience is that my GPS distances are almost always within 50m/100km of the distance from the speed sensor.

I remember when they first started, Quarq were planning to create their own, open source head unit. But I think they've now abandoned that.