V12man

Easiest would be to wash the varnish with washing soda (pick and pay) - this is different to sugar soap - and prime with oil based primer then paint - why sand it a beyond a light scratch for adhesion?....

2 long boards you clamp together to compress it and a box cutter

Angle grinder with a flexible disk - I (my worker) once sanded the underside of a wooden floor and varnished that - about 160m2 of it.... and it's the only tool that works at a reasonable speed, although you have to pay attention or it creates ridges quickly. And don't forget a good mask and eye protection - working overhead is a b..stard.

Should have bought the Hilti..... when you have used one you won't go back..... converts concrete to butter...

What size plank? I have some offcuts I don't really plan to use.

I just used a couple of old kids beanbags - good excuse for destroying those....

It is interesting that Morecoffee - the official importer also sells via takealot - just another R100...

Play with a stud finder first - they are useful tools to have, given that their other functions is looking for electrical cables before you drill into a wall. I have filled a mates studio doors with sand before, (specially built to take the sand) and they are brilliant ito sound deadening - but they are extremely heavy and will guillotine a finger if they slam... (I see lots of these professionally) - so not really suitable for existing frames and doors - the polystyrene works almost as well and does not break the door over time.

Drill holes in the edge of the existing doors, fill with polystyrene balls and reseal the holes - easy, cheap and works well for sound deadening. You just have to figure out how many compartments are in the doors and where to drill the holes..... a stud finder works really well.

Just ask Aerobie - link them to this thread and page with pics... aerobie@aerobie.com

None of those - either: a - leave it and live with it, or b - chop out the floor, level and compact - put down some high density insulation and plastic sheeting, and relay the concrete - powerfloat the floor, and then put down an epoxy you can refinish when it gets damaged. Job done - anything else will need to be redone - and is therefore a waste of time and effort, and money - also - you might want to check for leaking pipes/irrigation etc around the garage.... sometimes that's a problem... and if you fix it, your damp goes away.

OK - still laughing - even on less than 2 hours sleep.... I see there is now a new Roastmaster cafe in Rosebank - top of 7th where the std bank used to be - not sure if they are roasting there, but they do roast in their PE shop - I will swing past there in a few days.

LOL - man you are polite....

Interest, but no time. Do yourself a favour and go chat to Sam from Ikohfi.co.za, or closer, Wayne at urbangrind.co.za or the guys at fathercoffee.co.za or state5 in greenside I think Schmeul at jozi blue also has a small setup.

I have a battery operated impact wrench from them.... you want these tools...

There is a hubber who can probably do this on ti pieces if you ask him nicely...

Looks very pretty - my only comment would be that the handle should taper slightly towards the head of the mallet - so when you are using it it will not tend to slip out of your hand on the stroke - a criticism I have of some surgical mallets too, which can get pretty slippery and hard to hang on to.

The basket - you get fewer fines in the coffee - and the overpressure safety valves work.

I got an email from them a week or two ago - dont think there are any issues.

Shop ground coffee is by definition (and practically) already stale by the time you get it home - and flavours are already significantly altered for the worse. Admittedly - this is less obvious in a mokka pot than in espresso, but you really need to get a quality grinder (hand or electric) and fresh beans to explore the improvement in taste you can get. You should definately go with fresh coffee and the rule of 15's (google this - there is plenty on the subject) - personally I can taste the difference in post grind time after about 8 - 10 minutes in espresso, and I am happy to demonstrate the difference to anybody who comes to drink my coffee - consider that a standing invitation

Call Camper - 011 793 4410 - he is in Strydom park - he can probably do it for you

You need to adjust your grind a bit - probably finer, or alternately add more coffee - again - using a scale is useful sometimes.

It's coming along slowly - unfortunately ran out of paint (not enough to be sure of the final coat) - so off to the paint shop again and finish it this weekend hopefully.

The work on both - 1 unit for each concurrently they reccomend.

This has huge application amongst off road motorbike and car racers if properly developed, it's better than a shock dyno and replaces a bunch of expensive kit to see what your setup is doing (and therefore almost no one does)