Max Headroom

Yup, love the beach - regularly do recovery ride to Melkbos from Durbanville - then beach from Melkbos to Koeberg and back - beach trip only about 8km but fantastic cool breeze and beautiful. (I have second set of wheels with old worn tyres that I use when route is mainly tar or plain dirt roads) The only bridges that have ever made me have doubts was the vaal river crossing (because the wood pallet bridge was starting to disintegrate - and the long bridge at the lagoon/coast on sani - because of the many riders on bridge in front of you that may go down. But to get to my point - I am also currently trying this ride till it breaks. I have a friend (110kg) who has not replaced any drive-train components for years on his road bike - and its still problem free. Another friend has his mtb serviced about every two months at local dealer - and of course they recommend changing everything - whole drive train and bearings. (he can afford it - so no problem for him ! I just wish I could buy his bikes when he sells, because everything is always brand new !; but frames too small for me). My budget is minuscule compared to his. In his defense, we are always amazed at the amount of hammering mtbs take and mostly without major failures (and little obvious damage)- from grinding in dust, sand, mud and rain to flying down steep rocky descents with bumps and ditches. I do my own maintenance, (road and two mtbs - and my son's road and mtb) - takes a lot of time, specially when doing the bearing, shock and forks as well. So, I am keen to see how well my drive train last - when all I am currently doing is clean and lube well after every ride. So my chain is already stretched past limit and cassette and chain-rings are showing some wear - but I am not replacing till gears jump/skip or whatever worse happens. Although the parts are worn, they appear to have married together. In the meantime I keep my eyes open for bargain prices on the components so that it will be a cheap-ish drive-train replacement if/when required. Only issues I can say I have noticed so far is occasional blip after changing and now that the chain is stretched, and bends sideways more, I need to be aware which gear I am in to get a easy chain-ring shift. (I ride 2x). On the other hand, the chains ability to bend sideways - has a benefit to cassette wear when the chain-line is at an angle. Compared to my previous habit of replacing the parts - chain as soon as 80% worn and cassette and rings after about every three chains (using new chain starts to skip at that stage) - I am sure this 'ride till its trouble' approach will save a pretty penny. Time will tell. Thinking....this might be a good subject for tech forum (now that we hear so little from Johan Bornman and no risk being scolded by him)

Entries still open http://racetec.co.za/calendar/4330

Jissis ....what is it with you guys. Nobody said do or don't ride bridges. I was stating the factors around bridge riding that I felt needed mention. I simply made a point that everyone but newbies have ridden bridges and the risk to your electronics and bearings must be taken into consideration before riding them (not after you go for a swim) - and that a chicken run is almost always available. My opinion is that organisers see water bridges as an attraction when in reality, riders do not consider them an important draw-card. (in fact I think riders generally don't know about a bridge till they get there) To Organisers, sorry did not intend to degrade the event or routes or your bridge; nor to discourage entries. To Newer riders or new to bridges - sorry I did not intend to make the actual riding technicality sound daunting, or to scare you off. Yes, on a hot day the swim will be refreshing - At this event the bridge is at the end (so no problem if you do get wet) - but if you are going to ride it - Simply make sure your important stuff is waterproof. It can be a fun and special experience to ride a bridge - and everyone will be a little nervous, not just you ! Anyway, if you follow a few simple rules - you won't have a problem. If I may - some pointers : * erm...yes waterproof electronics. * Start at a pace and gear you can maintain * Too slow - and you will have difficulty with balance and staying on line - or the bridge will start to sink if you are very slow or stop - or you might not make it up the off-ramp. * Too fast - and you could slip on curves in the bridge - or catch the rider in front of you. * Give the rider before you time to get going - the bridge can handle your weight fine, but two riders together will cause the bridge to sink too much ; - then you both swim. * Some bridges sink a bit more than others which creates a 'wake' in front of the rider. i.e. It feels if you are riding against a wave so you need to maintain your pace. * If you stop before the bridge (example. riders waiting to cross) - ask the guy behind you to give you some space to get going before he starts. * If a rider falls off in front of you - don't look at their swim technique - keep concentrating on where you are going - If the fallen rider tries to hang on the bridge or to get back on the bridge; shout to him that you are going to kick his teeth in. * If you fall in, (it will normally be head first) so hang onto your riding ray-ban glasses - don't laugh so much that it results in you drowning - and don't go back to the bridge ! just walk or swim out (at events where the water is deep, they will have helpers (kayaks and ****) but usually the dams are shallow and you can walk out. Now, getting back to the comment re "go ride on the road" and "bikes are made to get dirty" Bwaaahaaahaaa ...... you are so funny. ps. I do like the idea mention of placing a gap jump in a bridge. So, I think I have covered everyone who had a comment on my original words , phew, this is why I so seldom try to contribute to the forum topics - just not worth all the comments from readers who turn and twist one's topic without making a useful new contribution to it.

These damn dam crossings are so over rated. Everyone has done them so many times before. Fine when you use it to cross the rivers (Joburg2C, Sani etc) but I pity the guys who fall off because some idiot who fell off in front of them tries to climb back on the bridge, or guy in front goes too slow, or guy behind does not give them time/space/gap from the start. I am lucky to have crossed all event bridges fine, But, every time I see one ; I wonder if the event organisers realise that most of the guys who fall in, have - a Cell phone and bike GPS/Computer that cost thousands that might not be completely waterproof - further, the water often gets into wheel bearings, suspension bearing, bottom bracket, head-set and a couple of weeks later these riders discover they have to spend a fortune replacing these parts. Only time I though these bridges (when not required for actual river etc crossing) were justified, was a couple of years back (at Ride the Rhino tour finish) when they were giving prizes for the best wheelie on the bridge. Other than that, all they are doing is terrorising the novices, and increasing their cost of bike maintenance. (Yeah, sure there is often a chicken run - but riders are not brave enough to cop out.) ps. These Bottelary Hill Trails are amazing - I ride them every week - so see you there !!

Event Name: Worcester Heaven & Hills MTB When: 16 June 2018 Where: worcester, Western Cape Category: MTB Go to Event Page

Would be good idea to place a link here :-) so riders can easily find web entry info. ps. time to update the Maps on the website ? Blue , brown routes etc / Thanks for the fantastic trails - did my renewal yesterday !!!

Like most of you I always look at other cyclists (in my car or on my bike)to evaluate their visibility. I agree, the yellow or any colour is not enough. At night the Reflective clothing - especially around moving ankles are great. Flashing rear lights attract my attention the most from a distance. I am mainly interested in making my daytime visibility better. I see many riders with rear flashing lights during the day. However the light is hardly visible until on top of them : so just not bright enough. The (900-1000 lumin) front lights some (mainly mtb) guys use are in my opinion over kill and just blinding to others.- controlling in front of your bike is not as problematic as knowing that cars from behind see you. I have many little red lights collected over time and all basically only effective at night. Just got myself a 120 lumin rear and it's a bit better but still find one needs to keep the direct sun off it. Been thinking of making a collar around the outside edge to keep the sun off and the light in 'shade' But does it all really help ? Perhaps the danger is mainly drivers who are distreacted, just aren't looking - on cell, pissed or plain morons who don't give a **** about cyclist.

They not interested in participants. Even the website (which, by the way has incorrect link on this page) does not have info.

Praat jy van 'n padfiets ? Vir bergfiets het jy nie binnebande nodig nie. Kry net van die ingevoerdebinnebandlosebuitebande

Fantastic! Fantastic! New route! Guys did a lot to make it more rideable for the day with the wood chips on holes and wet spots. This is a proper mtb trail can't wait to go ride it again. Well done organizers and trailbuilders. Was ready to stop doing this ride annually because of the previous boring first half in the plots around town. Now it is a proper ride with great, mostly natural trail. I love Bottelary, wrlvanpas, hoogekraal etc. for the flowing trails, berms, switchbacks etc but non have natural raw element that this new trail around the dam has. Well done - loved every one of the 54 Km's.

Gravel section only about 800 meters and just like any other section of tar that's tricky, downhill or uneven road, you just let the bunch loosen up a bit and give everyone some space. Often do this section (on road bike) nothing to worry about

aaargh ... tried to post snow pics but can't figure out how !

Was it 2009 we even had a bit of snow ?

Per PPA: "73 km – 38km will be tar and the rest will be jeep track – so around 50% tar. Very little sand 47 km – 50% will be tar and 50 % will be jeep track. Very little sand" 50% tar - they should be ashamed !

yup, must be laps - measured distance from farm house to far side of quarry is only 2km

From the map (on web) it looks like the most boring route around field after field, that I have ever seen

this membership is best money spent in a long time ! That new piece of single trek (blue route ?) going uphill as a short cut on the red route is a fantastic build and rides like a dream ! Can't wait to see the next new track section now being developed ! Thanks Guys .... such great trails. I just wish you could find a way of building a route in and along the mountain for the red route return section (after the green route). After all the fun going out west, the trail back east to Radish is such an anticlimax ! Thanks for the constant work extending the trails !

Extra work for the calf muscle and achillies could also be due to your cleat being too close to the front toe end of your shoe. Check cleat position and move it back as far as your shoe allows. This will reduce the leverage which transfers to the calf and achillies. On most shoes, it will place the cleat in a better position related to your foot

Thanks for the detailed reply. Much appreciated.

Where is the Tap ?

On that same weekend (30 Aug) there is the Hopefield event near Darling ? eish

why do these people organise a mtb race - at 7am - at the time of year that it is still likely to be cold - and riders need to travel from CT Guaranteed to limit entries

Ha ha ha, nice try. Go check your mail and see for how long you kept me hanging on . Is that the best price, my mate will call you, blah blah blah. When a seller places an item at a bargain price, and gets 10 guys interested. The buyers better shape up re getting payment made. I told you that another buyer whom I though had lost interest , suddenly made payment to my bank account. It would have been too complicated to reverse the status. Next time you want an item get cracking on payment.

Tyre Plug is the best option

Coke, never snort coke light. (edit... oops sorry, wrong thread)