Max Headroom

Lourensford Classic April 2024- Wine Estate Class Distance Price (pp) Classic 59 km with 1600m climbing R 700.00 Maxi 40 km with 900m climbing R 600.00 Those prices - I assume it includes an e-bike rental !

Yup, Recently, Gerald hosted at the PE2Plett and listening to him at the nightly briefings, gave me hope again - I thought he sounded normal and capable of having a smooth discussion. But what a failure yesterday. The problem is, he can't concentrate - every simple sentence is mostly filled with 'erm' 'ah' 'eh'. He needs a speech therapist.

Sorry, if you don't believe in science; I can't help you. (If you are really interested, you don't need me to find research that comforts you: it's everywhere.)

Yeah, I know - it's the story of 'if the sun doesn't kill you, the washing machine will' My OP was not a crusade to convince anyone — but rather, that it occurred to me, that I need to also consider scientific proof re plastic dangers: in a cycling context. The point was that we try to avoid or eliminate the bad stuff (like your wife and doctor tells you):- do more exercise, eat less animal fat, use low fat dairy, eat more fibre etc etc. But, when it comes to continually drinking vast amounts of water etc out of Plastic bottles: we say ah, what the F*#k, I'm going to ignore science (that shows we vastly underestimate how seriously plastic affects our bodies) It's similar to smoking; if it doesn't kill you instantly, it can't be that bad ! Right ? Anyway, I think we are all tired of this topic now.

Oh, you are such a loafer - this is what HR average should look like : 😇

They look like a good option to me, of course nothing is as easy, cheap or convenient as plastic (for almost all daily-use items), but isn't this basically what guys cycled with before plastic? I do hate the idea that you cant sqeeze it !

Oh, there are many - just google 'is BPA Free - safe' Here, in no particular order, a couple :- https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2020/02/200218182202.htm https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/article/news-BPA-free-plastic-safety-chemicals-health https://www.livescience.com/63592-bpa-free-plastic-dangers.html https://www.greenmatters.com/p/bpa-free https://www.fertstert.org/article/S0015-0282(16)61382-1/fulltext https://www.nature.com/articles/jes20168 https://academic.oup.com/jes/article/3/9/1715/5537531?login=false https://www.cbc.ca/news/science/bpa-free-1.5404149 https://www.discovermagazine.com/health/many-bpa-free-plastics-are-toxic-some-are-worse-than-bpa https://www.tonyrobbins.com/health-vitality/plastic-water-bottles-safe/

While washing my water bottles and cleaning the tops - after yesterday's mtb ride, I started thinking of the plastic related risks. Plastics are ubiquitous, cheap and convenient, but they leach chemicals that contaminate our food and drink. Scientific results to-date linked plastic to serious health issues such as endocrine disruption, weight gain, insulin resistance, decreased reproductive health, prostate and breast cancer, various diseases, disability, diabetes, cardiovascular health risks and premature death at every stage of its life cycle. We are all aware of the plastic dangers, yet we spend hours on our bikes (often daily) drinking from plastic bottles and hydration packs, and seldom think of the plastic leaching into our bodies. Even when it is considered a 'safe plastic' bottle, other conditions like the sun/heat or the cleaning-scrub of the bottle affects the plastic breakdown. (I have had bottles getting so sun/road reflection heated that eventually they were impossible to drink) I checked the ratings on the bottom of my bottles for some comfort of the plastic rating. "BPA FREE" are the common keywords we now expect to see. Although Science shows that some BPA-Free plastic is made of BPA substitutes that are just as harmful as BPA. (Water bottles and food containers are often labelled "BPA-free."; However, scientists warn chemical alternatives, such as bisphenol S (BPS), aren't safe for people to use.) I noticed my bottles from the * CT Cycle Tour, * Ride Jo'burg, and some others had a Triangle with the number 4 - The symbol we associate with safe or BPE free, However, the bottles from USN, W2W, Biogen - had nothing on the bottom - therefore I have no info on the rating - (or the manufacturer) Are these bottles Safe ? Are these cheap imports ? Are our cycle bottle 'suppliers' negligent ? Are we killing ourselves while trying to stay healthy ? What alternatives do we have ? Ok, I'm going to go ride my bike now with the knowledge that we are all F#%*ed in so many ways.

Perhaps you rag was too synthetic / nylon - and slips. Try cotton rag. This process has never failed me. Actually, your sealant pic looks 'oily' ? I use Stans, Enduro or my home-made, all are/have latex that comes off with friction - which is why my method works for me.

If we assume it's not this guy - how did the perp. get this photo ? This guy is a stuntman and can be found on various websites. But is it him, or someone else using this pic as a ID ? Looks like a selfie - from lost/stolen phone perhaps ?

Here is what I do , wrap a rag around screwdriver handle, insert screwdriver in electric drill. 20 minutes to clean a very heavily packed tyre. No worries about chemicals like acetone effect on rubber etc. 20231217_153419_001.mp4

Yes, thanks I did see that - but I was hoping to get more info ..i.e. see the rider list on a Munga site with rider 'about' info etc.

Where does one find the list of riders ?

I'm really enjoying reading feedback from hubbers on their experience, so I decided to give my story as well. Entering the Race - Admin Balls up 1 : I have done all the 94.7 events since the start in 1997 - and after the 2022 finish I received an email personally addressed to me (from organisers) offering me an early entry at the old price - so of course I entered 'early' Some time later this year 2023, I again received a directly addresses invite to 'remember to enter'. Because I am an idiot, I entered again (in my opinion a flaw in the entry system which should have shown I was already entered) - and I was surprised to see I now had two entries. Substitution - Admin Balls up 2 : So, decided to get rid of the second entry. Race Admin twice confirmed the entry had been transferred to the new rider - but he still had not received any confirmation - so over 12 days of begging and 14 emails from me and a few from the new rider - it turned out that the Race Admin still didn't/couldn't get it done by race day !! ?? and the entry was wasted (aaargh !) So pathetic ! Please come back Tanya Harford ! (original 94.7 organiser who was excellent !) Seeding - Admin Balls up 3 : I received my seeding whatsapp advising I was in Group A - I knew that was a mistake - and later received an apology and was told, I was in fact reseeded to Group M. The first 'A' allocations was very optimistic / obviously wrong, but 'M' also didn't seem right either. I was eventually given seeding as Group H (which I was satisfied with) Parking at start - Admin Balls up 4 : Someone decided that without supervision - the attendants 'car guards' could/would control the directing of traffic and organising all by themselves. Like other hubbers mention, it was a mess - instead of standing at the corners and directing traffic, a traffic jam was created by every guard selecting for himself a car in the queue, running alongside and then insisting that he found your spot and therefore had to be paid - and no matter what was said, they would not go away, and were joined by other guards insisting payment was due. All in all, by the time I left after the race, I had given four different guys money - I just couldn't risk damage to the car (or myself) and couldn't take anymore fighting and screaming. My Ride Jo'burg : I agree with previous comments that the route was harder in the past - but I was younger then ! and I found this year's heat and hills tough going. The mistakes in seeding were apparent when we passed so many riders with early seeding that obviously were not capable of those group standards - and why why why do these people have to ride slowly (often two/three abreast) in the middle of the road, specially on the outgoing highway when the bunches were flying into them. I always love the bunches and speed from the start out on the M1 up to kayalami - but suffer on the major climbs back. Anyway, every year I get older and a few extra minutes added to my time - Last three years - 3.21 then 3.31 and now 3.35 (how I long for those days when I could do 2.42) Old age is not for sissies. Every ride without a major incident is a pleasure - so I will probably be back again in 2024. The supporters as always were fantastic, and its such a wonderful sight to see how the once white sport (in my early days) is enjoyed by so many fellow south africans and so many enthusiastic ladies. A Big thank-you to the "Karen R" (bib-number-name) that caught me again and again on the hills - and inspired me to go harder just to stay within sight of those absolutely Marvelous legs.

In Fantastic state

I'm retired 😛 ... so no problem with that 😎

Yes, but I remove it after about 10 rides to disassemble and rub individual cogs clean. Check the contact surfaces, bearings, free-wheel ratchets, etc and oil/grease where required. When cleaning on the bike, - if you didn't over-wax the chain and clean regularly, the cassette does not build-up so much gunk. If the soap brush wasn't enough, don't use/soak it with paraffin etc. I just wet the flat nylon brush (with a paint safe, non-caustic, acid free , water soluble like repsol degreaser. ) The (see pic) nylon brushes don't hold much liquid so it just wets the surface and the long thin bristles get into the required dirt spots. And then water hose off well, followed by rag held tight/flat to rub clean/dry between cogs. However, I don't skip a full removal and cleanup if I had a very wet muddy ride or deeper water crossing (example river at Boschendal), or done an event where I know they used high pressure cleaners, I check all bearing (including BB, pedals and wheelhubs) remove everything to check, clean-out and grease. Don't forget to first remove your rear derailleur battery !! forkit - this is quickly turning into a full service manual.

As the other hubbers are basically saying just take it to the LBS, I'll tell you what I do: 1) Do not take it to the LBS. Your question - must it be cleaned ? Its not just the Chain and Cassette that needs cleaning - Clean the Chain, Cassette, Chainring and Derailleur - it is the simplest and most regular maintenance requirement specially on a MTB. Anyone can do it and it takes even less time than driving/riding your bike to a LBS - not to mention the expense. 2) Yes, if you ride on dirt it is important that you: - i) use a dry chain lube and ii) clean these components regularly. Once you get to the putty/paste stage - in shows excessive lube and dirt which is basically a grinding paste destroying your components. 3) Clean these 4 items after every ride, even if your bike itself can skip a wash - not so for the drive-train parts which have constant friction. If my drive-train looks clean after one ride, I might give it a good rub-down with a rag (back-spin pedals) and add a little lube, but I never ride it twice without a proper clean. My regular cleaning process: a) To clean the dirt, dust and mud - Soak the bike and all part with soap including the chain and rest of drive chain parts.. Then, leave it for a few minutes for the soap to penetrate - then rinse with a hose on low pressure. This basically cleans the bike frame. b) I always use a quick link on my chains so its easy to remove it for a proper clean. Remove the chain. Take a thin flat screwdriver and scrape off all the remaining crud (lube-lumps, paste, gunge etc) off the Chainring, the Cassette sprockets, and both Derailleurs pulleys and cage. Rub the D-cage and tension and guide pulleys clean with a rag and inspect motion and condition. c) Clean between sprockets with a cassette brush dipped in soap - ( if necessary, I also use pipe-cleaners) d). I prefer paraffin as a solvent to clean my chains (place the chain in a paraffin bath/dish and shake till clean - repeat if still not clean after first go) Then I wash the chain with soap to remove all the paraffin - and leave it in the sun for a few minutes to dry) ( The dirty paraffin gets poured over old rags or dry used tea-leaf bags kept in a empty energy drink tub - The tea-leaf-bags etc soaked items later used for fantastic fire-starters ) e) I then place the dry chain out flat on newspaper - rollers exposed - and place one drop of pre-warmed wax lube (from holder in a cup of hot water) on each link of the chain and wait for it to soak in and dry before wiping it down with a rag and refitting to the bike. 4) Regarding frame protection - buy the ridiculously expensive clear film bike protection at your LBS - or get off-cuts from the local vinyl-sign maker - or buy 'Gorilla clear tape' Ok, that was a long answer ; but really not long or difficult process that I follow.

Agree ! Such a beautiful vehicle - but unfortunate not that cheap or easy to get one

Like others, I occasionally look at the FACEBOOK Market to see cycling related items - but then stumble onto something crazy or obviously fraudulent or just very interesting - but all a bit weird. I'll start the thread with this beauty. R 9,000 for this Pachard 1941 bus in CT - seller https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/profile/100072289753774 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1348123929440276/?ref=product_details&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks https://www.classic.com/veh/1941-packard-90-eight-door-nm81aD4/

Good position for Garmin - mostly in wind slip of handlebar - unlike resistance and wattage loss when mounted on the top-cap or standing up on handlebar. Just needs a bit of duct-tape from top front of Garmin and around the bar to create a smooth aircraft shape. https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/ineos-grenadiers-reveal-wattage-saving-of-duct-tape-aero-transponder-hack/

A couple of random thoughts in no particular order: Unlike road bikes that have less maintenance, you must check some items on your mtb bike before every ride - Clean lubed chain (and gear shifting test), Shock pressure, Fork pressure, Tyre pressure and thorn etc presence, Dropper post pressure, Brake lever play and pad wear, and consider your tubeless sealant condition/level. Sounds like a lot to check - but it will become second nature. Don't leave home without your Trail Permit Board ! Check the club website/facebook etc media on trail conditions. It very disappointing to get to a trail and find it is closed for maintenance etc When riding alone - keep in mind that you need to ride more conservative and controlled. If you fall, it could be that bad one you don't expect - and it could be a long time before help or another rider comes past - furthermore, if you are off the trail you could be hard to spot. Unlike road riding; you need to stand-up more to control your bike - example stand-up on tricky or rough technical trails or/and downhills Practice using your front brake - it grips ! especially on a straight line Don't ever drag your back wheel - it F@#$ up the trails Brake before you get to a corner/turn - not in the turn - danger plus drag - don't F@#$% up the trails Don't go riding single tracks if they are muddy/after heavy rain - itf @#$%^ up the trails Take you own bomb, plugs, tools etc. - don't expect others to help you Look at route maps to get an rough idea of where you are going to go - unlike road, most side roads will not lead to Rome - you will reach dead-ends - hike a bike obstacles - and angry farm owner and marshal abuse for leaving the trails. Plus, short cuts usually aren't In spite of the above - sometimes you will get lost - often due to missing a trail sign, go back and check. If its due to confusing or missing sign boards - tell the next marshal you see how disappointed you are ! (but be lekker - don't get into a fight) Look at maps for potential water restock points Be lekker - even if its a paid event - you don't have the right to hold the trail line or hold up other riders When you stop - get off the trail line to let others pass When faster riders approach from behind, get off the trail line When you legs give up on a climb, try not to get off - go to your easiest gear, lower your cadence and pace yourself - , it can be very difficult to remount/restart on steep hills - unlike roads, the surface will probably be loose Relating to the above, opinions differ on who has 'right of way' - the rider going down a narrow trail or the rider coming up the trail - if its steep, let the rider going up keep going - but don't be a box, judge each encounter on its own - sometimes the rider going down has no safe place to stop due to speed, loose trail surface etc - and sometimes the climbing rider sees its easier if he/she stops. Say hello and thank-you. Chances of falling are higher on mtb riding vs. road - Sooner or later you will fall - wear gloves Sooner or later you will eat bugs and flies - don't cry - HTFU Sooner or later you will get a Bee in your shirt or helmet - stop immediately or you will get stung (don't cry) Momentum is your friend - unlike road riding, don't stop just because you went slightly off trail, just keep riding and re-join Momentum ! - if you go too slow the rocks etc will try to stop your wheel 29er wheels are BIG, and with Momentum, your wheels will roll over most obstacles including rock gardens, river rocky beds, grass/weed lumps/tussocks. Keep momentum for bridges over fences etc - (but not so much that you ramp/take-off ! ) And get in a gear that lets you add a little power and speed in case you go too slow at the top. The fence bridge is no different to riding over a dirt bump - with the exception that stopping on top / putting a foot down is likely to end in tears There is nothing delicate in mtb riding - you must be confident and bully your bike over obstacles There is no shame in taking the 'B' line ( the safer route at an obstacle, drop-off, jump etc) Unlike road tyre pressure, hard tyres are not always better - depending on your route, decide on your tyre pressure before setting off on your ride Always wear your ICE identification bracelet on a ride. (don't ask how I learned some of these tips)

Yup, 120 Carbon Pro - best choice I made.

RACE FACT FILE: Date: 17 September 2023 Distances: 150km Monster and 100km Mini Monster Elevation: 150km: 2000m | 100km 1300m Terrain: 150km: 85km gravel | 65km tar 🤨