Brighter-Lights

If the photographer used good equipment and technique/composition - R45 per photo is VERY cheap... Even R100 for a good photo is cheap... Consider that the gear + insurance to do photography professionally costs at least 150k - 400k per setup to photograph sport events - for some this may even be a small budget. Then consider travel costs + accommodation + cost to get set up on the route (multiple photographers - (starting with 3 which already can barely cover a large event, but if 2 are dropped at a nice location on the route at least 2 nice photos of each rider can be captured) Then consider hiring a pro photographer and going to your favourite spot to get a few decent photos of you taken - will work out over a R1000 starting cheaply. I've had some terrible photos taken of me during races - the prints were bad quality and for me it was an insult receiving them after I paid - for a service like that I would not pay. But... the standard is higher now and I see some great photos taken at races that's posted on FB and for quality like that R45 would be cheap cheap cheap... ! If 30% of a 2000 large field buys their photo the total income is R27k - then pay the 3 photographers on your team, insurance for equipment, consider wear and tear on equipment, time spent travelling, accommodation, time spent getting the photographers out on the course, time spent fetching them after the event, time spent downloading and sorting a few thousand photos, more time spent uploading them and sorting them via race number etc. etc. - R27k in this example won't go very far.

In terms of the CPA the seller MUST make known any defects or known issues when selling anything used. It's very unfortunate and I learned the hard way. I now video the inspection of the box if it appears like there's any shipping damage or poor handling, video the opening of the box and video the inspection of the item - all in one cut - that way I'm covered 100%.

Thanks for the great report... really makes me itch...! ;-)

+1 for Saturdays

psi = tpi? I know someone who loves them on a 26er...

-> eBay

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All the gopro mounts work on the virb or drift camera's with a simple adapter mount... for me it was between Hero+ black, Virb Elite and Drift Ghost-S - decided to get the Drift Ghost-S... better slo-mo than the Virb, bigger screen, better battery life, lens can rotate -> more mounting options - much much much better user interface than the Gopro... better remote... the list goes on... need a dive case if you want to dive, but the std drift is 3m rated vs the garmin's 1m... std drift has extra back door with proper 3.5mm mic input if you want to use an external mic for film projects where with the virb you have to buy an extra non standard cable to use an external mic... Best all round camera Drift Ghost-S - also 35mbps - and Drift has been in the game a long time. BTW... if you want the Virb for the speed/HR/altitude overlay, you might as well get the std virb as the editing software allows you to integrate any garmin file and add overlay data to your video when editing... all the Virb Elite does is add the data realtime and offers wifi to a phone.

Why not the Ghost-S as well?

0.5mm change at the dropout needed for 6mm change at the arch for a 29er wheel... insignificant...

Facing, or filing dropout tabs is std. practice and the responses here merely indicates a total lack of knowledge. http://faqload.com/faqs/bicycle-components/suspension/rockshox-sid-wheel-not-sitting-straight http://morningstartools.com/Documents/dft.png In my beginning years I worked at a shop who was contracted to set up ride height and alignment on brand new vehicles from Merc, Mitsubishi, Toyota, Mazda etc. If you know how poorly new vehicles come set up from the factory you'd laugh - there simply is not time to do it properly as tolerances we worked at are less than a 10th of a degree... just loosening a bolt and tightening it again can create up to a degree or more change... Many of these vehicles don't have adjustment cams or slots and methods prescribed by the manufacturers are same as with this fork... sometimes control arms or rods are shimmed to achieve the desired spec... other times holes are slotted to enable adjustment... standard practice... I do agree however that the shop should first have determined that the lowers are skew and informed the client of the option to replace to lowers or file/scrape/face the lowers at the clients own risk...

Everybody is over reacting here... Don't know which fork, but it's known out there the RS had a callback on Sid's with skew lowers from the factory. Think of the forces experienced by a fork and how much it flexes - then imagine a heavy rider locking out his fork on a climb and forgetting to unlock on the downhill... it takes one big hit to bend the lowers... Besides the 2 new forks I bought with the above problem from the factory, I know of two other instances there lowers were bent/twisted taking hard hits while being locked out. The shop should have fitted the wheel to a few other bikes after making sure that the dishing is correct, then just told the owner that his lowers are bent and that they can alter the dropouts to temporary make it better at the owners risk. To get the wheel to move 5mm at the fork arch would need less than 1mm removed or added at the dropout tabs... they even could have demonstrated it by using feeler gauges added to the side that's lower... It's a common problem... just google... maybe not so common for hub experts... Any mechanical engineer would tell you that filing the dropout if done right would not create any risks - even if you remove 1mm - to have better matching surfaces between the hub flanges and the dropout tabs give a much stronger joint - I mean then what do you say about the dropout facing tool, or the brake tab facing tool, all removing material where it matters? Insignificant... or about resin tools used to stamp a few thousand sheet metal parts before they wear... or have you seen badly worn dropout tabs? Quite an amount of material that can be removed down there without catastrophic failure...

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/rock-shox-sid-problem

I've not read all the posts but google - is it a SID? there was a call back for SIDs where the lowers were cast skew... I bought 2 new SID's that had alignment issues - front wheel also kept moving after braking hard - one dropout was lower/higher than the other, hub flanges were not parallel to dropout tabs, wheel kept moving even with skewer very tight. I made a 9mm axle tool, filled the one side with epoxy, inserted the tool while epoxy cured, all problems fixed. I'm not saying it's the issue with your fork, but if the wheel is dished correctly and is still skew when fitted then the problem is with the fork's lowers. Not dangerous at all when using the right epoxy - many sheet metal forming dies are made from alu filled resin - hard enough to give up to 2000 stamped parts where several tons are at play - the downward force on a bike fork isn't a fraction of the forces the above tooling withstand... even unfilled epoxy will be more than hard enough.

It took awhile, but I finally have received all the items that needed replacement and I want to thank ASG for coming to the party - with aftersales service like that, I will buy Rudy Project with peace of mind and can recommend the brand to anyone. Much appreciated ASG, thank you.

2nd hand offers MUCH better value, especially when buying a 26er since the market is pro 29er... can buy a top level 26er bike, one that's won xc world cups 3 or 4 years ago for 1/4 of the price of the same spec 29er... I'm afraid that for 3-4k you're not going to get anything that will provide you with a positive ride experience, but for 6-8k there's many options of very well specced bikes.

I made the special tools and found all the related docs after some searching, but the docs really just confirmed what I already figured out myself. Servicing a FOX rear shock at home is super easy once you know how it works - I mean complete damper disassembly - it enabled me to systematically fine tune the damping circuit to dramatically improve performance for a lightweight rider on a Giant Anthem X.

Is this the same Specialized involved with Songo.info charity?

1.7-2 bar (depending on your weight) will give a much smoother ride than 3+ bar...and better traction.

Not the same instance I spoke of above, but another sequence of beautiful photos of a Brown Hyena dominating 3 Cheetah... http://www.wildcard.co.za/blog.htm?action=view-post&id=4713

I also want a IFP schrader valve adapter - price? Thanks http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mPZZD4om2qZ8eE34InWk5Iw.jpg

Not tried any Spez saddles but I don't like the Gobi. My personal choice - any Selle Italia SLR - once rode almost 450km in 24hr Solo on SLR 135 with not a mark down there - used cream though.

+1 Swat

So the cassette and chain are both brand new? How are the front chainrings? Slippage like you described normally happens with new/worn drivetrain components mixed together - IF everything else is aligned and adjusted properly. Could also be ghost shifting if it's a suspension bike.

Check out Superstar Components as well. http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/