Brighter-Lights

Awsome! Good luck!

This thread is about open bath oil volume... not damper oil... I think I said it clearly: "Synthetic manual transmission oil works great in the open bath... Store your bike upside down one night per week so some oil can seep through to the foam rings - you'll never have dry foam rings. "

Synthetic manual transmission oil works great in the open bath... Store your bike upside down one night per week so some oil can seep through to the foam rings - you'll never have dry foam rings.

What I do when receiving any important parcel is mount the camera on a tripod and video the unpacking sequence incl. inspection of the item. There are just instances where it would be difficult to prove that you're being honest and not taking a chance. Can easily be proven that the item wasn't as described or the order incomplete giving the seller no other choice but to rectify it.

I've even had a quick link disconnect on a rough downhill before but that happens once in 500 000km I guess ;-) It's all about front der adjustment. What's great about SRAM gripshift is that you can fine tune the front der position and what I like to do on rough downhills where I won't pedal is tune the der one click down should be nearly rubbing the chain and the chain won't rattle off of the big ring. Also change to #3 or #4 at the back to further increase the chain tension... Or just get a clutch rear mech. Also check how big the gap is between the front der cage and big chainring... cage should be 2-3mm higher than big ring.

Price is the same as the Black when the Black came out... $400... Black will now be discounted to $330 and Silver to $250... Good value in a Silver for $250...

Could the der hanger have bent transporting the bike from the shop home?

Neat work! Instead of adding the wedge, you also could've used foam and sanded it to shape before wrapping the carbon. Well done!

I'd like to see the responses a year from now... his opening statement says enough... cyclists freedom taken away into a government system... basically continuing what's been started under PAT

I think it very much depends on the circumstances and Brown Hyena involved, but it's known that Brown Hyena takes a kill from even a male Leopard. One more source then I'm out, not here to debate. ' Brown Hyena - Hyaena brunnea The brown hyena (Hyaena brunnea, formerly Parahyaena brunnea) is a species of hyena which occurs in Namibia, Botswana, western and southern Zimbabwe, southern Mozambique and South Africa. Brown hyenas can measure 86 to 150 cm (34 to 59 in) in head-and-body length, although they average 110 to 125 cm (43 to 49 in). The height at the shoulder is 71 to 88 cm (28 to 35 in) and the tail is 25 to 35 cm (9.8 to 14 in) long. Unlike the larger spotted hyena, there are no sizable differences between the sexes, though males may be slightly larger than the females. The average adult male weighs 40.2 to 43.7 kg (89 to 96 lb), while the average female weighs 37.7 to 40.2 kg (83 to 89 lb). The normal upper weight limit for the species is 55 kg (120 lb), although an occasional outsized specimen can weigh up to 67.6 to 72.6 kg (149 to 160 lb). Brown hyenas are primarily scavengers, the bulk of their diet consisting of carcasses killed by larger predators, though they may supplement their diet with rodents, insects, eggs and fruit. However, brown hyenas are aggressive scavengers, frequently appropriating the kills of black-backed jackals, cheetahs, and leopards, including adult male leopards. If you're a nature lover you should seriously read 'Cry of the Kalahari'!

Good reading... http://books.google.co.za/books?id=eBlckaRfyU4C&pg=PA135&lpg=PA135&dq=brown+hyena+dominates+leopard&source=bl&ots=MarvIChr32&sig=dra-kChbQ8EsTHXzIxse5_Heq9g&hl=en&sa=X&ei=xtxDUq_lAsSD4gTM-IHADg&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=brown%20hyena%20dominates%20leopard&f=false

Brown Hyena (as in the photos I posted and took myself) dominates Leopard and Cheetah... the first time I read about it was in the wonderful book 'Cry of the Kalahari' - then experienced it second hand seeing a beautiful sequence of photos a neighbour at Nossob camp in Kgalagadi showed me. On a cold winters morning (-8) a Brown Heyna attacked 3 Cheetah and took their kill... wish I had those photos to show here...happened near Mata Mata.

One more...

They mostly wander alone or in a male/female pair, but clans are not uncommon. Some pics I took...

Very shy animals... but not totally harmless, in the wild Brown Hyena dominates Leopard and Cheetah. Avg. weight around 40g but can be up to 75kg... Aardwolf on the other hand is totally harmless.

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/63085-trek-superfly-100-pro-size-l/ If it's your size... Then add R5k for new chainrings, brake pads as needed...

Get a good coach if you can afford it... else get 'The Mountainbiker's Training Bible' by Joe Friel

Started cycling August 2004 - after 8 years of total inactivity. September 2004 Karoo to Coast 5:23 September 2005 Karoo to Coast 3:27 Best performances by 2008 - never followed a training program, just rode like I felt. Then got a coach in 2009 and my passion for riding declined quite a bit - lots of interval and boring work. From there I didn't get much faster but endurance got better. It's very personal but I like to just go and ride like I feel, which resulted in over training most of the times - it changed now - goals change...

Performance can be improved dramatically in one year... even in 3 months. That's starting at ground zero...

I find that if I set up like the above, deflate neg chamber first, add + until % sag, then add neg.... if I add neg of +15 more than pos it will pull down the fork past 30% sag when riding. Certain sag % can be achieved with many pressure combos - in the end it depends on how hard you want the fork to feel and how often you want to hit 80% + travel. Also depends much on stem length and where your body is in relation to the fork. 73kg rider, SID WC carbon, 100mm, and I run 60 pos and 50 neg for rough terrain (25% sag) or up to 90/90 for gravel roads - but 90/90 on rough singletrack is just harsh and bumpy, even with slower rebound adjustment... very personal but I like the fork to be active over rough stuff and lock out when I stand up because the lower pressure I run doesn't feel best when pedalling standing up.

Keep the Dual Air... power in your hands...

What doesn't work 100%? Could you elaborate? Have you checked the oil level in the damper? Was the lockout threshold adjuster in the max or min position when the XLOC was bled? My two XX forks needed bleeding out of the box but they lock out and perform flawlessly. To the OP... for years I've liked lockout on the fork crown and used it on smooth climbs, but with the XX forks I love the lockout on the bar, even though it's heavier and taking up space on the bar - only downside is when turning the bike upside down you have to put a towel or fixture under the grips so the lockout lever won't get scratched...

Been shopping for a Rockshox monarch RT3... R2500 most places... yesterday a clearance at R700 ea. Or Monarch XX normally R3500 at one shop and then marked down to R1260 last month. Rockshox Ario was R3500 now R899.... Rudy lenses were R550 now R99 at one shop... American classic race 26er wheels were R6000, then R3000, now R5500 at another shop. Sid WC carbon was R5500 (26er), then R3000 at CWC during December now R7000? Massive profits!!!

Thanks very much. I bought them online from Bikewear but will contact Lizle soon.

I'm interested to hear if other users experienced similar quality issues I've experienced. I bought 2 Rudy Project Sterling helmets new. Both helmets came with the web/bug net type of padding. After less than 6 months, the seams on the pads popped open, as if they were not welded/fused properly. (only happened on one of the helmets initially, the other one some time later) The helmets came with spare sets of pads that were different to the bug net type. I replaced the bug net with the spare pads and they also popped open on the seams after very little use - maybe 3 months use... Within one year the retention system on both failed, one totally broke off. I found the red plastic parts on the helmet also faded quickly - poor UV resistance. Before these helmets I had a Uvex which pads looked like new after 2 years of frequent use. I bought 2 Catlike helmets in the meantime and no issues with them. The reason for this post is that I have 2 little used Rudy Sterling helmets in storage and wonder if it's worth replacing the retention system and pads yet again, or if the ones I have maybe had quality issues from the start... How long has your Rudy's pads and retention strap been lasting? I think under a year total use is a bit on the disappointing side...