philip.maree

Hi have Tubeless XT 29er Rims but cannot find proper 29er UST tires. I have fitted Continental Mountain Kings as a tubeless conversion but it is messy and I cannot get the tire to seat on the rim without using a bomb or going the to garage to use a compressor. So there are 2 questions 1. is it worth it running tubeless conversion or should I just run tubed? 2. what tires work well as tubeless conversion?

Thanks. You know how difficult it is to find a picture of how the thing actually works. Possibly just my ignorance. I am running it geared, so I presume the QR Skewer just replaces the bolted skewer in the picture?

I am building a 29er geared but the rear QR Skewer doesn't tighten the wheel. So I reckon I need to fit the chaintug that Kiwi supplied but how does it work? Where do I attach it to? philip.maree2010-02-15 07:45:28

Just got an order from CRC detained by customs. Customs required a Clearing Agent to be appointed as the total value of the order was more that 500 pounds in value. Cost me R1300 to have it cleared via an agent on top of the vat which ends up being 27% for vat and handling. So lesson learned, if order greater that R6000 split it into 2 orders

This is what I have in mind for the 29-er. For the dual susp I have no idea yet. Will get that once in CT. http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/giant-xtc_1_29er_black-2.jpg Nice Bike. Have a look at the On-One Scandals that Kiwi sells as well. Excellent value. http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.za Do all your riding on that before you plunge into a dual suspension. You might just find you don't anything more. I have gone through 26er HT to 26er DS back to 26er HT and am now waiting to build my 29er HT. philip.maree2010-02-09 02:50:31

Get a proper 29er HT and you will not need a dual suspension.

Rock Shox are less maintenance intensive. But they are both awesome forks

I spent some time investigating the Carbon HT frame as an option. Stumbled upon this thread after hours of googling. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=536473 I decided to order the frame via Apricot Jam (http://www.DVbicycles.com). Unfortunately with Chinese shipment I still haven't received my frame and it's a month later. Had to make another plan in the meantime. I think it's a worthwhile exercise if you are not in a hurry to get the frame.

I've got a 2009 Rock Shox Reba SL with remote lockout for R3800. Awesome fork! Will post pics tomorrow and can email them to you if interested

I actually asked if they can't give me a similar shock from one of their bikes on the floor but they said they cannot do that. I didn't want to push the issue. Normally in a chain of people having to produce some result it is inevitable that the blame shifts depending on who you speak to. And it seems that it might be the case and point in this instance as well. I only know what I was told by Cyclelab.

Why not? OUTsurance will pay you according to the quote, you in turn pay the supplier. Are OUTsurance going to salvage the damaged fork? Dunno if Outsurance is going to salvage the fork. The claim has been processed so to change it at this point is not something they want to do. I have already checked with them.

Then I guess I am the exception to the rule

My steerer tube of my Reba broke and I claimed from Outsurance to have the fork replaced. Outsurance sent me to Cyclelab Centurion and I got the assessment, quote and approval of the claim done within a day which is absolutely amazing. Big for Outsurance and Cyclelab for the quick handling of this claim. Now is where the gripe starts. Cyclelab contacted the agent yesterday morning and to order a Reba. They were told that it will have to shipped form Cape Town. Cyclelab told them that it was urgent and wanted it couriered overnight as I wanted to do Baberton this weekend. When I phoned Cyclelab this morning I was told that the fork did not arrive and that there is no expectation of it arriving at all and that it normally takes 4 to 5 days for orders to arrive from Cape Town. 4 to 5 days to get a fork from Cape Town to PTA!!! Normal postage is quicker! I think the Rock Shox agents are pathetic and that they could have done this quickly but just don't give a cr@p! Luckily Cyclelab was nice enough to offer me a loan fork so all is not lost! philip.maree2010-01-29 05:04:14

Thanks Mampara! I just couldn't get my head around it. Staring at the tree and not seeing the forest.

So the liner should be exposed then on areas like the down tube for example between cable stops? If I understand correctly then, the link outers are put on the same place as where normal cable outers would be placed with the cable in the liner exposed where the cable would have been exposed as per normal? Does this make sense? I am confused? I thought they were continuous outer cabling philip.maree2010-01-22 03:32:41

I bought a set of I-Link gear cables for my new Canaan frame. Built the bike last evening but found that there isn't enough outer links to cover the whole stretch of liner supplied. So the questions I have are 1. Should there be exposed cables when fitting I-Links? 2. Do you expose the liner or do you cut that as well? 3. What is the point if some portion is exposed on getting I-Links? 4. Should I go and buy another set for the outer links and save the cable and liner for later? I googled it last night but not with much success. Any advice/response would be appreciated

Thanks for the explanation Ox. So it has more to do with the handling of the bike rather than the travel, correct?

I have a rockshox reba sl 2008 80mm model. What would the effect be of running 80mm travel upfront and 100mm travel in the rear?

I have heard that the rear and front travel should be similar. Why is this? I have a 80mm Fork and I am looking to upgrade my HT to a dual sus but the rear travel on a dual sus frame is 100mm. philip.maree2010-01-14 03:23:03

and I take all the other elements like tyres' date=' riding surface and weather were the same? On lose gravel you will never get the same traction as you would on tar so it does not matter if you've got a 203mm disc and use all ten fingers.[/quote'] Fair comment. The conditions where roughly the same but what it does give me is more confidence to brake later with less effort into the corners. That is just my preference though.

Better stopping power. why do you need "better" stopping power? If you're standing still not prove that your brakes are good enough? "better" stopping power = quicker to point where you are standing still. I found that I can use one finger on the lever with little effort in most cases to be able to break. When I had a 160mm up front I had to use multiple fingers and really break "hard" to be able to stop.

Better stopping power.

Are you running 180mm or 160mm rotor up front? If 180mm, what adapter did you use?