philip.maree

Why not? OUTsurance will pay you according to the quote, you in turn pay the supplier. Are OUTsurance going to salvage the damaged fork? Dunno if Outsurance is going to salvage the fork. The claim has been processed so to change it at this point is not something they want to do. I have already checked with them.

Then I guess I am the exception to the rule

My steerer tube of my Reba broke and I claimed from Outsurance to have the fork replaced. Outsurance sent me to Cyclelab Centurion and I got the assessment, quote and approval of the claim done within a day which is absolutely amazing. Big for Outsurance and Cyclelab for the quick handling of this claim. Now is where the gripe starts. Cyclelab contacted the agent yesterday morning and to order a Reba. They were told that it will have to shipped form Cape Town. Cyclelab told them that it was urgent and wanted it couriered overnight as I wanted to do Baberton this weekend. When I phoned Cyclelab this morning I was told that the fork did not arrive and that there is no expectation of it arriving at all and that it normally takes 4 to 5 days for orders to arrive from Cape Town. 4 to 5 days to get a fork from Cape Town to PTA!!! Normal postage is quicker! I think the Rock Shox agents are pathetic and that they could have done this quickly but just don't give a cr@p! Luckily Cyclelab was nice enough to offer me a loan fork so all is not lost! philip.maree2010-01-29 05:04:14

Thanks Mampara! I just couldn't get my head around it. Staring at the tree and not seeing the forest.

So the liner should be exposed then on areas like the down tube for example between cable stops? If I understand correctly then, the link outers are put on the same place as where normal cable outers would be placed with the cable in the liner exposed where the cable would have been exposed as per normal? Does this make sense? I am confused? I thought they were continuous outer cabling philip.maree2010-01-22 03:32:41

I bought a set of I-Link gear cables for my new Canaan frame. Built the bike last evening but found that there isn't enough outer links to cover the whole stretch of liner supplied. So the questions I have are 1. Should there be exposed cables when fitting I-Links? 2. Do you expose the liner or do you cut that as well? 3. What is the point if some portion is exposed on getting I-Links? 4. Should I go and buy another set for the outer links and save the cable and liner for later? I googled it last night but not with much success. Any advice/response would be appreciated

Thanks for the explanation Ox. So it has more to do with the handling of the bike rather than the travel, correct?

I have a rockshox reba sl 2008 80mm model. What would the effect be of running 80mm travel upfront and 100mm travel in the rear?

I have heard that the rear and front travel should be similar. Why is this? I have a 80mm Fork and I am looking to upgrade my HT to a dual sus but the rear travel on a dual sus frame is 100mm. philip.maree2010-01-14 03:23:03

and I take all the other elements like tyres' date=' riding surface and weather were the same? On lose gravel you will never get the same traction as you would on tar so it does not matter if you've got a 203mm disc and use all ten fingers.[/quote'] Fair comment. The conditions where roughly the same but what it does give me is more confidence to brake later with less effort into the corners. That is just my preference though.

Better stopping power. why do you need "better" stopping power? If you're standing still not prove that your brakes are good enough? "better" stopping power = quicker to point where you are standing still. I found that I can use one finger on the lever with little effort in most cases to be able to break. When I had a 160mm up front I had to use multiple fingers and really break "hard" to be able to stop.

Better stopping power.

Are you running 180mm or 160mm rotor up front? If 180mm, what adapter did you use?

Oi' date=' that's a can of worms Sounds like you have a sloping top tube, so the first thing to remember is that if that angle is different (one slopes more than the other), you're going to get a different size. You want the virtual top tube -- the horizontal one. Then there's angles: seat tube angle changes the effective top tube. And there's head-tube height, which will change low your handlebars can go. [/quote'] The current frame has a 70.5? head tube angle and a 73? seat tube angle The new 20" frame has a 71? heat tube angle and a 73? seat tube angle The new 22" frame has a 71? heat tube angle and a 72.5? seat tube angle So what it boils down to is that the seat tube length is different, correct?

I am looking to buy another hardtail frame but I am currently sitting the following dilemma My current frame is 'n 20" with a top tube length of 605mm. The 20" frame that I am looking to buy has a top tube length of 585mm and the 22" frame has a top tube length of 595mm. Should I rather go for the 22" frame? Or what else should I be taking into consideration

out of those 3, Merida 96 3000D

Just put some lube on the link before you do the wiggle thing. I found that helps when the link is really stubborn.

2010 - The year of the FUGLY kits!

I believe I won the lotto next week' date=' so will have enough spare cash. Fork: RockShox Reba - versus SID?Crank: Truvative Noir - Are the Truvative BB's any good compared to xtr? Brakes: Avid Elixir CR - Versus Formular R1? [/quote'] Reba vs SID, weight and price. Reba's are awesome value for money. Truvative BB's vs XTR - Don't know if they are any better. XTR's rule though. Elixir vs Formula, price. But since you won the lotto, go SID, XTR and Formula then. All good choices.

Go SRAM XX if you have a lot of money! Otherwise here is a list of components that won't break the bank but also won't let you down. Fork: RockShox Reba Crank: Shimano XT / Truvative Noir Wheels: Shimano XT Brakes: Avid Elixir CR Shifters: SRAM X0 RD: SRAM X0 FD: SRAM X9/X0 Post - Bar -Stem: Anything light. KCNC comes to mind. The Red KCNC post would look so awesome of a white Zula. philip.maree2009-12-11 05:58:27

Take a look at Silverback. You get the most bike for the money you spent. I think their Nabraska goes for around R9k http://www.silverbacklab.com/int_site/specs/nabraska.jpg You will struggle to find another brand that will beat that for value. My advice, mountain biking is very addictive and recreation only lasts that long . So buy a decent bike from the beginning philip.maree2009-12-11 02:55:03

It depends on the riding you do. You will get a more versatile bike in the Anthem. Components can always be replaced with time though and then you can go lighter.