quickdraw

Sounds like your cable housing is too long/short between the front and rear triangle. When the bike is on the stand the gears will shift smoothly but when you sit on the bike the rear shock compresses and the section of housing that runs between the front and rear flexes(not sure if that is the correct term) and affects the tension on the inner cable causing your gears to jump up and down. To cut a long story short - try running a longer housing and check that the cable routiing is correct.quickdraw2009-08-11 12:22:22

It's easier - basically the valve stem without the strip

You need a crankpuller for an ISIS splined BB. *NB - NOT THE ONE FOR TAPERED SQUARE BBs

Yep, some avid ultimates will look good with your XO shifters

Hi I have a Kenda Karm 2.1 UST - thinking of getting a Conti Mountain/Race/Speed king USt. What would be the best option - Karma front and speed/race king rear or Karma rear and Mountain King front? Added: I am currently running a Revolt Super X up front and smallblock 8 rear - anybody use the Super X in winter?quickdraw2009-07-22 05:46:53

Rather go for the 520 or 540s, they are a bit better in muddy conditions. The 505 is still based on the older Shimano design.

Actually think the Kona is lighter - it is my current steed and the frame comes in at about 1.4kg (fairly light for an alu hardtail)

Hi Which would you choose between and Kona Kula Primo frame and a Cannondale F700 (caad4) frame? Why?

I'm in would need confirmation on whether it is the Friday or Monday - need to put in the leave. Mmmm and cost?

Come on Johan, choose a date. If this is definately gonna happen then I am going to hold off on sending my fork in for a service

My Kona Kula primo frame + 1k

What type of brakes is it. Could try using new washers or v-bake jobbies if they are avids. clean it all off and add a smidgen of grease. Sometimes the washers, etc gets an imprint from the previous setting so when you tighten the mounting bolts the caliper shifts back to the previous imprints. Also tighten them very slowly and alternating between bolts in small increments.

When are you having one in CT?

Thanks Lefty, all I needed to hear.

Thanks, did you find the rush comfortable size wise? Looking to possibly replace the hardtail for the scalpel for longer rides. Actually checked and the horizontal top tube length of the small rush is longer than the Scalpel (575 and 559) My current hardtails top tube is 570 - 575 (need to confirm) and I use a layback seatpost and flipped 90mm stem.quickdraw2009-03-23 00:18:59

Howdy Would a size small Scalpel, be too small for me - 1.75m? I am thinking yes.

Sweet, going to do my best to be there - gotta pencil it in before the wifey reserves that date

What kind of fitness levels are required, would like to join but I am a bit on the unfit/slow side of things?

When you ride the bike, take your weight off the saddle while you pedal and ride over a few bumps and check if the sound is still there. If there is no click with your weight off the saddle - remove seatpost and clean out seat tube and apply some grease, also remove saddle from post and clean rails and mounts for rails apply a LITTLE grease and re-assemble. make sure your seatpost clamp is also nice ind tight.

How do chainrings wear?

Sweet, if things don't go right this eve (gonna try an easy-out) then I will give them a shout.

This is the bolt that is used to mount the rear shock onto the frame?

Thanks, that is a bit of good news. Do you think the bolt can be removed without damaging the frame? As stated passes through mount on one side, through the bushings and shocks eye and screws into the ount on the other side.

Hi Johan, It is the rear shock - the top shock mounting bolt slides through the one side and screws directly into the the mount on the other side (it is a single bolt and not the male/female type). The "sleeve" (forgive my terminology) is the basically just the outer casing of the shock (If it was a suspension fork then on the slider close to where it meets the stanchion) - will get those pics up.quickdraw2009-02-17 13:51:16

I am busy trying to add some life to my cousin's Tomac Revolver, unfortunately there are two serious looking things. The top shock mounting bolt appears to have dug itself in for WW2 and the hex bolt's head is starting to round off with attempts to loosen it. Does anyone know of a place in CT that can drill it out? The second thing is the shock itself (Manitou swinger 3-way) appears to have some deep corrosion spots on the sleeve (white powdery and seems to go quite deep into the metal (I scraped most of it away) - should the shock be replaced? I will try and get some pics up tomorrow.