quintonb

Running a 46/21. Live in a really hilly area. Good for climbing, but over-spin on the descends.

I live in Durban and the sea air is impossible when it comes to mating faces like BB cups against the frame. I always use Copper slip, its the best for threads, aluminium seat posts, etc. Every removable part on all my bikes has Copper slip on it. Makes like easy when you have to strip your bike and it helps eliminate creaking.

Just be aware that if there is a claim on the frame the distributors normally try and use the Indoor trainer as a way out. They tried that with my father-in-law when his Cervelo cracked. He has a track bike permanently set up on his trainer, so me got around that one.

Couldnt agree more. Also something to consider, Upgrade to 105 or alike and spend some money on good, light wheels, if you dont have already. Wheels alone would make the biggest difference. Something like Easton EA 70 or 90's.

Try Merlin cycles in the UK for group sets. They normally do a bundle style where you can buy Levers and Front and Rear Derailer, the if you want you can buy the rest later. My colleague got Ultegra for R6500.00 landed in SA. This was about 4 months ago though. http://www.merlincyc...set-grey-1.html http://www.merlincyc...0-gear-kit.html http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/road-parts/transmission/gear-sti-ergo-levers/shimano-ultegra-6700-sti-gear-kit.html The Ultegra gear kit is cheaper that STI lever only from CWC. Also if you buy it like this, no import duties and no VAT. Thats first hand from my colleague.

Simple, Caad 10 with 105

The Green and Black 'Dale is my 14 year old Cad 3 with 10 speed Ultegra. Still as strong as the day I bought it. Its worth keeping the frame, maybe you van use it as a training bike. Resale would be bad, so not even worth selling.

Not sure about your size, but if you are tall and strong and maybe a bit on the heavy side, stick with 'Dale. They make strong bikes. If its a Cad 3, the save up for a Caad 10. Its really a magic frame. IMO, I wouldn't downgrade to Tiagra also not a fan of those Pinarello frames. But that's just me.

Any Cannondale from back then is a bike that will never break. I have a nearly 14 year old Cad 3 and its brilliant. I wouldn't bother with a Caad 8 if anything get a Caad 10, as light as most carbon frames. Really good bike. Otherwise like you said, Campag Athena 11 speed is what I would do. Either way any Cannondale Alu frame will last a very long time. What Cannondale are you currently riding, Caad 5?

Thats not what I understand. They cut the ITB in "Half" so that one half stays infront of the bone and the other at the back of the bone. The reason the ITB gets sore is because it rubs back and forth over the bone and it gets inflamed and thats where the pain comes from. By cutting the ITB it never rub over the bone, so no more inflimation. Thats just my Laymans understanding of it. I am be wrong.

I would say its an option. A friend of mine had hers done, she is a physio in the Joburg Area and is very happy. She says you should double that recovery time. She took 3 months off from doing anything. Didn't even swim. She has just run her 5th Comrades and did the full Iron man last year.

Not stupid at all, I would say probably no it wont effect the bonded lugs. But then there is always that slim chance it may. Are you planning on taking the clear coat off?

I actually own that specific Yellow/Orange Colnago Master now

Maxxis ICON. CWC have them for R390 at the moment

100% correct. They came out with Suntour GXP Groupsets. Its a very interesting bike from back then. They had almost perfected the Lugged Alu frame, but by then guys like Cannondale had perfected the welded Alu frame. So the Lugged Alu frames died a slow death.

Nice bike, I had forgotten about those. If I recall they ran production until the early '90's. A more cost effective frame than the Vitus of the day. I am under correction, but I think the tubes in the Litage were threaded as well as bonded, Unlike the Vitus and Alan's. That one looks in good shape. Not sure if they worth anything, apart from it being a nice bike. They had really "cool" looking seat stays.

Love your work Jared. How would they be for a re-chrome on a frame? I have 2 classic Colnago frames that are in need of the rear triangle being re-chromed. My issue is I have heard that the acid they clean the steel with before chroming could cause the silver solder to break down and the frame to "fall" apart. You have any experience with these issues?

Looks amazing. Just out of interest, who did the re-chroming?

Now this is Vintage Bike Porn.

It amazes me that people are trying to justify why cyclists/pedestrians are being hit and killed. Take a step back people and listen to what you are saying, we are killing people, fathers, mothers, children. Yet people like Jerome think if they can justify it, its all ok. We have dehumanized ourselves, they are in our way so if we have to kill them to get to where we are going so be it, accidents happen. Only reason accidents happen is if someone has done something wrong, cyclist or motorist, but they don't just happen. We are talking about taking human lives as if it were just another obstacle in the way. Hope the lady involved has a speedy recovery. Hope the driver gets what he deserves.

Anything Cannondale, but my personal favourite Colnago Master (Cant beat steel)

Cannondale without a doubt (IMO)

Take a look at the links. I have a 1988 Cannondale "Black Lightning" built as a SS, I used these cranks and chain tensioner, both brilliant. You can also use a "half link" chain and do away with a chain tensioner. I would say Trek use an English BB Thread. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17724 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=75323 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31089