quintonb

Nice looking calculator.

Good luck. And buy the Cannondale if its the right size. Brilliant frame that CAAD 10.

I would be inclined to have a pro bike fitting. Then you will be 100% sure its the right size for you, and any bike you buy in the future can be referenced off that fitment.

Thats a pretty wide range. You sure you input the correct info. Shouldnt give such a wide range. But honestly with that inseam I would say the 56 may just do the job. Who knew.

Take a look at this site, it will give you a pretty good idea of size. http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer I would say more along the lines of a 58cm... but see what the calculator spits out. Seems like you have shortish legs for your height.

Depends greatly on your inseam and reach. I have a short body with longer than normal arms and legs. The reason I chose a 58 is I used to ride a 60cm, but it felt too cumbersome. General rule with Cannondale is if you normally ride a 60cm, you could get away with riding 1 frame size down, ie. 58cm. Generally taller guys like ourselves fair better on conventional frame geometries. Compact frames never really seem to fit. Generally speaking that is.

At 1.89m tall that 56cm may be a little on the small side. I am 1.89M tall (6foot 2") and I ride a 58cm Cannondale, but I have a 905mm Inseam

Agreed, also probably the lightest Alu frame on the market at the moment. Cant beat the strength to weight ratio of Cannondale.

Bullet proof rim. I run 28 hole Open Pro's on very old Coda hubs, wheels around 12 years old. Love them But if I were to spend 5 to 7k on wheels I would buy Easton EA70's. Great value for money and Strong.

Riding down is fine, its getting back up thats the issue. I ride up High Street with a laptop bag on my back, so for me these ratios work well.

Running a 46/21. Live in a really hilly area. Good for climbing, but over-spin on the descends.

I live in Durban and the sea air is impossible when it comes to mating faces like BB cups against the frame. I always use Copper slip, its the best for threads, aluminium seat posts, etc. Every removable part on all my bikes has Copper slip on it. Makes like easy when you have to strip your bike and it helps eliminate creaking.

Just be aware that if there is a claim on the frame the distributors normally try and use the Indoor trainer as a way out. They tried that with my father-in-law when his Cervelo cracked. He has a track bike permanently set up on his trainer, so me got around that one.

Couldnt agree more. Also something to consider, Upgrade to 105 or alike and spend some money on good, light wheels, if you dont have already. Wheels alone would make the biggest difference. Something like Easton EA 70 or 90's.

Try Merlin cycles in the UK for group sets. They normally do a bundle style where you can buy Levers and Front and Rear Derailer, the if you want you can buy the rest later. My colleague got Ultegra for R6500.00 landed in SA. This was about 4 months ago though. http://www.merlincyc...set-grey-1.html http://www.merlincyc...0-gear-kit.html http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/road-parts/transmission/gear-sti-ergo-levers/shimano-ultegra-6700-sti-gear-kit.html The Ultegra gear kit is cheaper that STI lever only from CWC. Also if you buy it like this, no import duties and no VAT. Thats first hand from my colleague.

Simple, Caad 10 with 105

The Green and Black 'Dale is my 14 year old Cad 3 with 10 speed Ultegra. Still as strong as the day I bought it. Its worth keeping the frame, maybe you van use it as a training bike. Resale would be bad, so not even worth selling.

Not sure about your size, but if you are tall and strong and maybe a bit on the heavy side, stick with 'Dale. They make strong bikes. If its a Cad 3, the save up for a Caad 10. Its really a magic frame. IMO, I wouldn't downgrade to Tiagra also not a fan of those Pinarello frames. But that's just me.

Any Cannondale from back then is a bike that will never break. I have a nearly 14 year old Cad 3 and its brilliant. I wouldn't bother with a Caad 8 if anything get a Caad 10, as light as most carbon frames. Really good bike. Otherwise like you said, Campag Athena 11 speed is what I would do. Either way any Cannondale Alu frame will last a very long time. What Cannondale are you currently riding, Caad 5?

Thats not what I understand. They cut the ITB in "Half" so that one half stays infront of the bone and the other at the back of the bone. The reason the ITB gets sore is because it rubs back and forth over the bone and it gets inflamed and thats where the pain comes from. By cutting the ITB it never rub over the bone, so no more inflimation. Thats just my Laymans understanding of it. I am be wrong.

I would say its an option. A friend of mine had hers done, she is a physio in the Joburg Area and is very happy. She says you should double that recovery time. She took 3 months off from doing anything. Didn't even swim. She has just run her 5th Comrades and did the full Iron man last year.

Not stupid at all, I would say probably no it wont effect the bonded lugs. But then there is always that slim chance it may. Are you planning on taking the clear coat off?

I actually own that specific Yellow/Orange Colnago Master now