4barlinkage

LOL! Dangle is unhappy..... Ironically enough, I don't ride a bike with a 4 bar linkage anymore (nice system before Specialized introduced their own shocks)... VPP, Quad link for me. Slick way to wake up the Dangle!!! I ride a FSA gravity light "handle"-bar in 740mm too. Oh, and a LoadedUSA one in 710mm

If the frame is a post mount it will have threads. IS frame mounts DON'T have threads.... If I recall correctly, Fuji doesn't use Post mount rear disc tabs. So there shouldn't be threads on the frame.

It will work perfectly fine. Just make sure your limit screws are adjusted properly. You may have tolerance issues with the front deraileur though... 2x10 front mechs generally differ according to what chainring combo you run. But if the deraileur works, the shifter will too

Odds are the bike shop forgot to retighten the bolts after they adjusted. You can push the pads back in to the caliper with a large flat screwdriver (use as a wedge, but try not hurt the pads too much). Suggest going back to the bike shop for replacement bolts. It's a common bolt so they should have plenty floating about. They can assist if it's their fault as well. Shouldn't take more than 10 min.

Ha ha! Thanks King Dangle! Man of much wisdom and cycling greatness! Yes I'm very young... 24 (Been riding since I was 7) Correct - I do ride in baggies, Normal cycling tops(like the pockets on the back - come in handy), no glasses(irritate my eyes), Bell Sweep XC helmet(funny as there is a piece missing on the back ). You missed Camelback though.... Always ride with a Camelback - Even on the road with a borrowed road bike Also a mass of segregation as I own a downhill bike, a marathon bike, all-mountain bike and heaven forbid... an SS... Soon to add a Reynolds 853 steel 650B hardtail to my collection Fad - Not for me... I ride my SS for the simplicity and training advantage it gives me. So do many other riders out there.... Confused about changing my "handle" to FSR.... Let me know how to do it and I may just

This is porn!!!!

I do get your point, just tired of all the anti this or that because he, she or they did it first or last or whatever... Just as school uniforms create solidarity in schools, I think that the whole dress up thing for the SS events creates a similar sense of solidarity. Why not all just look like knobs If guys want to ride their unique stuff on the trail, then let them do it! What makes you ride is what keeps you going. For you - Challenging yourself on different terrain on a SS. For me- just getting out and riding one of my bikes in the terrain it's intended for. For some random SSer - looking like a knob and having a good time being in the spotlight. Strangely enough, I think that having this whole 'dress-up' thing in the SS community has helped it grow as it appears fun and exciting to newbies. I have definitely noticed an increase over the last three years since I've been riding my SS. You will always have unique and different cliques in cycling.... Niner brigade... Rigid riders and dirt roadies.... Swear by 26ers... anti-niners.... to name a few. This keeps things fun and interesting although they can get a bit heated at times.... Got to take it with a pinch of salt

"I am getting so irritated with all these posers that are starting to ride SS bikes." - Maybe hate was a bad word to use here, but there's no happiness in this statement.... More bums on bikes is always going to be the winner Let the knobs take each other out and enjoy your ride... Guess I'm a patronizing poser... See you on the trail

Reba dual air Won't be a mistake!

Hey Dangle, why the hate? People enjoy riding bikes whether they be downhillers, all-mountain riders, single-speeders or race-snakes.... I've given up up caring about how people act and react to different types of riders out on the trail. Just going to make you more miserable if this bothers you... Say howzit, smile and keep riding... The trails too short to be stressed over who was riding a SS before it was cool...

I love loud hubs...... Let's the poor walker or novice cyclist in front of you know of their impending doom!

Should work fine. I run this setup on two of my bikes. The major difference on the front shifting is on the deraileur. 10-speed guide plates are narrower. Also there are many front deraileur options depending on the front chainring options. If you wifes SLX shifters are direct mount compatible, then changing to direct mount should get the shifters in her reach.

Sounds like a dead standard headset bearing to me. What is the bearing diameter?

Just throw the Road bike away and buy an MTB. No groups to suck wheels and worry about which knob is going to blow a fresh greeny onto your new 'SKY' team kit even though you're riding a specialized.... Ride for fun dammit! MTB - Much more fun in my opinion.....

Linden should definitely have. Have sent many guys there who have had luck. But 40 degrees....!? Holy mother of stem..... Bike fit disaster....

Hub change is the only option here. Shimano have always made there hubs to be of a relatively low decibel output. Still great stuff. Some loud hub options.... Definitely Hope if you want something to be heard (Pro 2 Evo is slightly quieter than the Pro 2). Dt and Chris King are a bit quieter(higher pitch, but still a great sound.) Hope and Chris King being the more reliable options here. There are other brands too, but I've seen alot of failed free-bodies out at events....

The general trend for next year in the mtb segment will be the move over of almost all brands to 650B for their dual-sus bike ranges and staying with 29" for hardtails. I've ridden all three sizes quite extensively through testing over the same route which compromises of flat open sections, tight twisty singletrack and lots of short sharp steep up and down trails. The 650B definitely offers the best of all worlds. It's the size they should have made from the beginning. My suggestions as follows: 29er wheel - Competitive racing in marathon style events and smoother less technical XCO events with minimal tight turns and short steep up and down bits. 650B wheel - Competitive XCO racing and Marathon events. In my opinion, it will become the new standard size of wheel as it has the benefits of 29" wheels (rolling effect and great turning grip) and very similar advantages to 26"wheels (quick acceleration and braking, plus great turn in and stiffness). The big thing with 650B is that you can still build a bike with great geometry and longer travel which tends to ruin longer travel 29ers. 26" wheel - Tight twisty XCO racing where light and fast wheels make a big impact. (Good turning speed, great acceleration and braking and stiffness) Would be suited to courses with lots of tight turns, short climbs and descents where acceleration is a big requirement. Will still be around for a long time so don't stress about continuity. Great for strong robust wheels.

Road cyclists and TT specialists in general *** themselves when they get on mtb's as the rapidly changing pace and intensity of higher cadence riding is something they don't experience on rouad bikes. Road bike do give great base though and help with strength training at low cadence. Hence allot of pro's doing road cycling to strengthen their base over longer low intensity rides and then doing shorter high intensity interval rides. The type of racing that would favour your strengths as they currently are would be marathon racing which tends to have large portioins of district road riding broken with the odd bit of singletrack or jeep track here and there. XC racing (thankfully) is starting to follow international trends and is becomming more technical and challenging. It also requires a rider to be physically strong as well as being able to maintain a high intensity of riding for prolonged periods of time(Roughly 1 and a half hours) (I'd guestimate 75-95% of your max) - It's hard....,. Your bike selection choice for competitive use on marathon racing would be a lightweight 29er hardtail. My suggestion here is screw everything else, look at light(but strong) wheels, a good frame(for racing I suggest a carbon option) and a decent fork. Everything else wears out and can be replaced over time. After the things I mentioned above, don't worry too much over parts, although I would suggest looking at SLX or better from Shimano or X-9 or above on SRAM. Don't judge the bike from the rear deraileur either(Rookie mistake). Rather have top-end shifters than a top-end deraileur. That's where the shifting quality comes from. Hope this helps