Brian Fantana

http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/8881/setup_checks/25884/photos/25050/s780_IMG_4218.jpg?1400776230 http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/8881/setup_checks/25884/photos/25051/s1600_IMG_4219.jpg?1400776297 http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/8881/setup_checks/25884/photos/25052/s1600_IMG_4221.jpg?1400776373

Now this is a grinder, Nuova Simonelli Mythos One:

The next step I would try is to grind a bit coarser, but use a funnel (to keep the grounds from falling out) while stirring the ground coffee inside the portafilter basket with a long needle. This distributes the grounds more evenly which works. You can then get away with a lighter tamp as well. I have managed to have a fast flowing shot and a shot that almost choked with the same grind size and tamping force but with the one I stirred the grounds before tamping and the other I did not.

Which is exactly what you want and need in a long travel hardtail. Modern long travel hardtails are all about long top tubes, low BB's, short chainstays and slack head angles.

I use an Arrarex Caravel. It is a manual lever espresso machine. Mine is a 1960's model which I have imported from Italy:

+1. In addition to that, one must remember that Orange is a UK based brand, and the designers are trail riders themselves. After a year or two of UK trail riding, nice lines and elaborate suspension designs will fly straight out the window, and reliability, simplicity and mud-proof components will become you top priorities.

The Giant is great value for money, so why don't you get the Reign, and with the change get Bird Zero (4.5 out of 5) : http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/category/frames/mountain-bike/product/review-bird-zero-15-48937/ http://www.birdmtb.com/zero-hardtail/ http://www.birdmtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/cropped14a.jpg http://www.birdmtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/cropped23.jpg

The only similarity is the curved top tube and the triangular junction where the seat tube and top tube meet. When you start looking at the rear suspension and the rear triangles, the two bikes are different in just about every way imaginable. At a glance here are a few differences: Rear triangle: Niner has a one-piece rear triangle which attaches to two suspension links. The Pyga only has one piece chainstays but there is a pivot just above the rear axle The Niner as the brace on the rear triangle between the left seat stay and the left chainstay The Pyga does not have this because the seatstays and the chainstays are not a one-piece design, but they are joined via a pivot above the rear axle. Lower Suspension Pivot The niner has a link that attaches to the front triangle and then runs below the BB and attaches to the rear triangle The Pyga's chainstays are attached to a pivot directly in the front triangle. This pivot is located above the bottom bracket.

And even more importantly: Use fresh beans Descale machines regularly Barista's should taste their own coffee from time to time Ensure that machine and grinder setup is correct every morning before business. Sadly the above only happens in a handful of shops nationwide, which is why I just make my espresso at home:

We stayed at a B&B outside Bergville the evening before Berg&Bush. The place had the coolest dogs: Dakota was spayed yesterday, so no running for this running mad one, for at least two weeks. Her older brother is looking very well after her.

Sad news. I am pretty sure I have met Nog earlier this year at the pub at Thomas River. He was absolutely crazy about his tennis ball and could jump/climb up the back of a Hilux with rails. JR's are very attached to their owners and will easily try to run after a car or bike.

After a day full of exercise on the farm:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=eubWYPhcEEo

In my opinion travel adjust is not really necessary if you ride a bike with less than 160mm travel. I have ridden many XCO's, marathons and ultra marathons with my Shova and my Intense with the Revelation fork at 150mm. Climbing is more about technique than fork travel. At Attakwas there are a few sections with 20%+ gradients where I managed just fine. I have also serviced RS U-turn and Fox Talas before (air spring and damper), and I prefer to work on a standard dual air fork than one with travel adjust.

I fixed your statement, cheers.

Currently running Maxxis Ignitor Lust 2.35 front and Maxxis Ardent Lust 2.25 rear. Very happy with the performance. My previous setup was a 2.35 Maxxis Highroller front and a 2.35 Maxxis Larsen TT rear. Also a nice combo, just got a bit randy on the rear in some corners. Nothing wrong with controlled drfting eh.

I agree, and I think with a head angle like that, steep, rocky climbs will be extremely difficult. For SA enduros, I believe 140-150mm of travel is enough with a head angle of 67-68. A rider's skill will make up for the rest.

Chris Porter's (owner of Mojo Suspension) bike for Trans Provence (I think): 62.5 deg head angle Super long top tube and wheelbase

Bird Cycles - Aeris. Long, low and slack. Looks like it could be a nice ride:

The timing is the hardest part in organising an Enduro. It is easy to find trails suitable for a 4 stage enduro. You will be amazed at how technical an intermediate section of trail can become if it is being timed and the mix of competition, ego and adrenalin kicks in. But like you said, organisers are in it for the money and will concentrate on mass participation. I organised an Enduro this year and we just about broke even, which is good for a first event of its kind in our province. I am not a professional organiser though.

If you are fit marathons can be a blast. I ride Attakwas whenever I can on my trail bike, and I keep going back, because it is such a blast. I will rather ride boring gravel road than sit on the couch and watch TV. Technical trails that point downward are still my favourite though.