Brian Fantana

So in your expert opinion, why does 15W40 spray spots all over my rim and frame during application, and 80w90 gear oil does not?

I have one fundamental problem with CrossFit. It becomes competitive, which means that speed trumps form. I any workout form should trump speed. If you cannot do your reps properly, go slower. My wife brought this home in 2012 somehwere: www.glomail.co.za/glomail_products_insanity.asp I was cross with her for buying some nonsense that you see on infomercials. So I thought I should at least give it a shot before returning it, and it was quite tough to start off with, but I became stronger and faster quite quickly. I have done the 60 day program 4 times now, and it is really great. It contains a lot of push up variations, core exercises and plyometrics. It helped my mountain biking in leaps and bounds(not speed only, but how good I feel after a long ride, how long I can stay comfortable etc). I feel as strong as I did when I played rugby at university. The best part: No weights or equipment, just a 4 x 4 m space.

It makes a massive difference. I have a few pairs of Endura baggies, and they have saved me my Giordana bibs on quite a few occasions. The good quality baggy shorts are a lot tougher than you might think, and they can withstand a lot of abrasion.

I don't run with VFF but with NB Minimus which is a minimalist with a Vibram sole. The transition period is tough, and long. But totally worth it. The transformation of your leg muscles and running style is astounding. It seems that in our society everything must be a quick fix or ultra luxury, anything that requires a little perseverance is labelled as ineffective.

Multi grade oil is too thin for a chain lube application. It will leave small black spots all over your chainstays and areas surrounding your chain. I have been using 80W90 gear oil for more than a year now. It is a lot heavier than multi grade and it does not spray any oil when you apply it, nor does it create strands. I apply it the evening before a ride, and wipe the excess off the next morning, completely (as in COMPLETELY). My chain runs smooth, and quiet for 100km easily. It does not attract dirt or dust (because you wiped the excess off). There will be a little bit of black residue on the chain rollers and on the tips of the cogs after a ride, but it is cleaned off very easily. The biggest advantage is that there is no gunk build up as with wax based lubricants, and the drivetrain remains smooth quiet for a long ride. Most important thing, wipe excess off before your ride. I usually ride for 500m inside the complex and shift through all the gears, and wipe the excess off after that. Anyway, that is my experience and opinion, please don't spitbraai me online because of it.

My wife & I will be there. Lovely area. My swaerries bachelors party was on the same farm where the race starts. See you guys there!!

Long Term Test: http://enduro-mtb.com/en/enduro-long-term-test-2014-the-cube-fritzz-160-hpa-pro-27-5/

It is a hit and miss, unless their batch numbers are somehow related to a roast date. I have bought WW beans before, and they were fresh 1 or 2 times, but I got stale beans way too often. I only buy from my local roaster now. The beans are never more than 5 days after roast date, and for the last year or so, they sell me 300g packets at 250g price. Seems like they overfill the packet if you are a regular customer. It is amazing how easy it is to taste the difference between stale beans and fresh beans. I once bought beans 3 days after roast date from my local roaster. I made 3-4 delicious cups, and then we went on holiday for two weeks. I forgot the beans at home, and when we returned I made some coffee. No matter what I did it just did not taste the same. The above was when using Aeropress, I can only imagine that the difference will be far greater when you make espresso.

I am not a cepetonian or Tokai regular, so I don't know if there is a suitable spot. I just mentioned in general that most trails could do with a pump track.

Awesome, thanks man!!

A pump track at a trail's start/finish area will go a long way in addressing the lack of skill of your average SA MTB rider.

Can you carry a full face on it? I already have a Dakine Session 8L pack, but would like a nice large pack for exploration and expedition rides.

You're asking it wrong, it should be: "Is the sink #endurospecific?" Haha!

Saw this one on Facebook. Either the dog is from the apartheid era or the domestic worker took taking the dog for a walk a bit literally. Hahahaha:

You can join us on a 50km MTB ride in Longmore Forest tomorrow, you can check the details of the ride here: http://www.fattracks.co.za/news/longmore_forest_ride_10_may

If you take on a sport with passion and commitment, most of types of sport will be tough and enjoyable at the same time. Cycling in all its forms is an awesome sport, so is rugby, tennis, paddling, surfing etc. If you have ever done a three hour surf session in big swell, cycling won't seem that tough anymore. Same for a tough rugby game, it is high intensity and your body takes knocks all over. But then again an XCO race or Ultra XCM like Attakwas can be just as hard or harder than the above mentioned sports. It's about how well you are prepared and how far you push yourself. I really miss the rugby from my university days. The camaraderie and sore post match body cannot be rivalled by other sports.

Duran van Eeden is a character of note. Almost the SA version of Cedric Gracia!!

Well, before we can have another Enduro in PE, I think we need to start an Enduro Committee where each member gets his turn to organise one event per year. I won't have time to organise another one this year, as I need to manage the marathon series our club will be hosting later this year, and I am busy setting up permanently marked and maintained routes in the Baakens Valley.

2 tickets purchased. Good luck for the season Pottie!!

From the Peak beacon on Cocks Comb:

Jbay on the right, Karoo on the left. Elandsriver valley in the middle.

Mr XCO:

I think the caliper is supplied with a set of pads, so you "score" R150-R200.

Here are two wheel size videos. Both will make you want to ride that specific size: Pick your poison and ride the hell out of it!!

I have driven hundreds of km's with our mountain bikes on towbar carrier of my vehicle. There are no scuff marks from debris or stones hitting the bikes. The only problem is dust, which is easy to overcome, don't lube your chain before you drive on a gravel road. Wash your drivetrain, and wipe it dry the day before. After travelling on gravel road, you just wipe the dust off you chain and cassette and lubricate. Easy.