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Butterbean

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Everything posted by Butterbean

  1. Look, the seller is dodgy, but i dont think you're squeaky clean in this either. Normally, you receive something that doesn't work as intended, you contact the seller and ask how he would like to proceed. This gives him the option to take it back and have a look himself, or send you to his trusted mech to take a look. You recieved the bike, found a fault, and took it to your own expert, who could have easily done more damage or created detrimental damage to a part that could have had a very small issue instead. You buy a car from a dealer, and if something goes wrong in those first 6 months, they handle the complaint, not your buddy down the road... The friend is there for advice, not for a botched repair... Again, both parties suck here, but i think you should have gone about all of this totally differently.
  2. Im glad you got that off your chest.
  3. Seems like it could be from the Chainring fixing nut, or the bolt that joins the spindle themselves? Might need a thorough strip, degrease, and relube, since its a prone area for dirt and ingress.
  4. Just went through this... The romin and Phenom differ in the side profile, ie, the romin is much more curved than the flatter phenom. I use a phenom on offroad bikes, and a romin on the roadie. I find the romin is great if you're not moving around a lot, so sit in the dip and stay there, she's good to go. The phenom seems to feel much better for off and on the saddle on the mtb and especially the gravel bike. Curvier saddles like the Romin are supposed to be better for those with less flexibility, and the toupe is designed as a race snake road saddle really... Coming off of a Fizik, yoi might be aware of their flexibility design designations which are similar to the Spez shape differences. (fizik recommends the curvy Aliante for less flexibile people, and the flat Arione for flexible, low sling racers. Their widths vary accordingly too, without choice like the Spez offers have).
  5. Also tried this stuff for a while. Its supposed to turn into foam and fill the air volume of the tyre while agitated, which sounds okay, but it turns into a tube in its own right, blocks valves, and dries out... Went back to Enduroseal and no more hassles...
  6. But you can, ahem, Maaknplan, and get a tanpan shift interface that'll sort it.
  7. https://www.junkmail.co.za/accessories/car-accessories/gauteng/vw-classic-beetle-teardrop-roof-rack/b75f27ce61f64c6784b1142e44ae5afb kyk hier... Little bit of modding to fit some standard bike racks and you're a for away
  8. I think anything on the back would look ***. Roof rack man... Roof rack.
  9. You'll need to do it via the roof rack, otherwise i can imagine SeaSucker might have something... But roof luggage racks are pretty retro and suit the beetle aesthetic.
  10. Might be chain line related, had this issue before.
  11. Measure the hub spacing yourself. It seems like they used a boost front hub, but standard rear as its one of the FAQs. Otherwise, double check with Silverback themselves, they're normally quite good at helping out.
  12. Insurance will only cover damage as a result of an event, ie, you ride into a rock and break something. But just having rims show hairline fractures? Thats wear and tear...
  13. Lyne is a fantastic choice. The service is great, good hubs, and a great wheelset. Im running the AMPv2 on the Silverback Stratos and they're amazing, even under my 120kg weight. Another good option is Rapide wheels. 25mm rim option if you're set on XC riding, and had phenomenal service and support from Wayne. Have a set on my gravel bike, and they've survived some hella rough riding without hassle under my considerable weight... Tips? Dont cheap out. Get brass nipples. Hub quality counts. Weight limits should be a big consideration factor. Dont get wheels with weird standards or proprietary spokes or hubs.
  14. I don't know if he still has some, but i bought a converter from SuperSywurm a while back...
  15. Just chat to the shop you bought them from. They must sort you out.
  16. Apparently its not uncommon with these. Michelin has in the pasy responded that its a pre treatment sprayed onto the under layers before the final top layer is applied and vulcanized. If they get it wrong, too much is applied and can ooze out like this. Apparently only affects very small batches, and is nothing to worry about from their view, and anecdotal evidence from people who've had the same issue...
  17. It doesnt up matter where the bike or you were located. You dropped 60k on an unseen bike and that wasn't smart, no matter how you slice this... Have you asked him the same questions re replacement parts? Hes the only one that could answer. I think you're within your rights to insist on like for like replacements, but you manage that with him. Good luck man. Hope it works out. Next time, maybe pay that teensy bit extra and have a local mechanic look over a bike you want to buy. Can't see a seller refusing, and its worth the money to have someone like Droo give you a green light.
  18. Dealer or not, its a used bike. You're expecting the service of a nee bike purchase, which is something you kinda write off in return for the discount of a used bike... I think he's doing the right thing by offering replacements on damaged parts. Id expect a car dealer to do the same. But to insist on a full refund for replacement parts is an issue. How does the internal mechanism get damaged from a crash? Anyway, i think you're making a much bigger fuss of this than you should be. You didnt inspect a bike you paid for, which was silly. If you're going to believe everyone's judgement of condition than i would suggest browsing the "comments on classifieds" thread and see the varying states of parts that are so often described as MINT. Put your toys back in the cot, get your best expert to inspect the rest of the bike and agree on replacement options. Then go ride your bike and feel better about the world.
  19. The only thing you'll be missing is closer gaps between gears (which doesn't matter as much as on the road), the top and bottom end gearing will be the same as any other speed. The other thing you'll miss out on is the ridiculous prices of 11spd gear... 8 speed stuff is super cheap, available in wide range of ratio choices, and reliable as hell. Go for it, you won't be missing anything tangible.
  20. They have also updated the pivot bolts themselves. The first versions only took 4nm to tighten, and the new ones are hella strong. And much thicker. I bent a couple ofnmy pivots bolts and the replacements are 100%.
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