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Butterbean

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Everything posted by Butterbean

  1. Yeha I did this to my giant anthem. There are some hacked permanent ways, and some less permanent ways to get it done.. Hacked permanent - use a dremel and a small drillbit to open up the cable stops on the frame. Once this is done you can simply feed a continuous outer along the standard points and Bob is generally moved into your aunts house without hassle. However, you lose warrantee, you might want to paint the exposed alu again, etc.... There's also the risk that you bodge it up and ruin the stops, but that's up to you to judge... Second, and more shoddy, is cable ties along the frame wherever to hold the cable. It'll most likely look ***, and scratch the paint, but it gets the job done without hurting the outers. Lastly, you can try, but with less sure results, some cable tie anchors from Builders. Little squares with a raised platform, double sided tape on the underside, that you stick on the frame and then cable tie the cables on to. There are bike specific versions of this idea but I haven't found in SA despite much searching. The builders anchors are a little brittle, but they do work and you just don't crank down on the cable tie. If you like your bike and don't plan on selling in the next year or so, just drill the stops and make it look right. The rest is all just attempts that will probably not end up as ideal as you'd like.
  2. Using Saguaro 2.25 rear, Barzo 2.35 front. The Sag is a little too fast rolling for my riding, as I do lose rear grip on loose climbs and loose corners. The barzo is great tho and sticks super well. To date, and touching wood, I haven't had a single sidewall cut or serious puncture, so they're lasting really well. Main driver was popularity and price, and honestly I can't see myself moving away from them while they're priced like they are. Might end up with a Barzo rear too, but we'll see how it goes.
  3. Yeah it really doesn't. I once peeled off a 2L ice cream tubs worth of sealant, as a large amount had dried in a tyre off a used bike I bought. It didn't weight all that much, and was certainly not worth the effort.
  4. Mixture of two things. Patience and Elbow Grease. There's no chemistry or tricks and tips that'll help. Sometimes a green pot scourer can help, but not often. Peeling off the bits like a bad sunburn is about as good as it gets and it takes a *** long time. If it's just a light coating, leave it be. If it's heavy, you might need to scrape it off with something like a dulled knife to save some weight... But it's still not likely worth the time...
  5. Sorry, last condition... I'm a heavy bastard, North of 115kgs so ideas need to match, if you have any....
  6. Hahaa sorry... It requires 29" QR or QR rear, 15TA front, disk wheels. Needs a narrower rim as the bike is used for 90% road, 10% gravel riding. So narrow tyres, not MTB tyres.
  7. Yeah rapide is the first place I looked. They have a great narrower rim gravel set, but at 5700ish, it's nearly what I paid for the bike so it's far too steep... Maybe if he has his black Friday deal again this year, but I need to get riding. The issue is the QR hubs, and the wide trend of rims. I have Lyne wheels on the MTB, and love them. But I run mainly road tyres and so need a rim around the 19-21ish ID.
  8. So, I have a cheap, cheerful, disk brake road/mild gravel bike. It's a GT grade that I got on clearance from Sportsmans and I love it, a lot! I sold the original heavy wheels and tyres and popped my Giant PXC2 wheelset on there with a 15mm TA to QR adapter in the front. Worked great but I rode over a brick a few weeks back, and the already slightly bent rims are now toast. So, I need a seriously budget solution. I'm fine with just a rim replacement if it comes in reasonably, but wouldn't mind replacing with a lighter wheelset that still strong and gravel capable. Bike is QR front and rear so am quietly hoping that somewhere in a dusty corner of a bike shop there are some great wheels waiting for a new home.... Anyway, lemme know. Honestly I couldn't spend more than 2500 on this exercise, whichever way it goes...
  9. You're 100%. The roof rack on those trailers is only 1m wide. You could go custom and widen the rack at a trailer builder, shouldn't be tooooo expensive but it's really the only option for a four bike, at least, 4 modern mountain bikes.
  10. Yeah I like Squirt too... The trick is to apply, then wipe the excess. If you don't, it gunks up but that's not the product, that's user error. I clean and relube every 100kms or so so it's not too bad...
  11. Hey man I have a lightly used 11-50 sunrace cassette. Make me a sleezy offer and I'm sure we can make a plan to take it off my hands...
  12. Stick with Shimano. These appear great but bearings don't last and serviceability isn't wonderful. The small weight penalty with Shimano is well worth the reliability
  13. Why not a Silverback Stratos? A little on the heavy side, but super strong frames and we'll speccd in that price range on a brand new bike.
  14. When I was new to riding I used lockouts all the time. I thought it was just the right thing to do. But then I stopped. I don't really know why. But tar, climbs, jeep track, whatever, I want full squish. It's just better. If you're out the saddle climbing, the right gear and smooth pedaling will avoid that major Bob. And like someone else said, locked out on tar, a dual sus feels super weird... Plus who wants to worry about getting to a part of a trail and not knowing if you're in the right position, looking at your shock or whatever, or even worse, getting to the bottom of a hectic section and the lockouts weren't disengaged. Just ride it, you'll like it.
  15. Jesus yes good catch... Late night responses...
  16. Yeah man get a shock pump. And get one that has a deflation valve on the pump so you can be more accurate and much less time consuming. Your weight in Pounds is a good starting point, but you should be aiming for 30% sag. Add or remove air to achieve this. You test this by getting on the bike, gently, putting your weight on the pedals, standing on them, with hands on the bars and weight centered. Don't Bob or bounce. Check where the shock travel is at that point. You want 30% there. Then, ride your bike. If you do your typical kind of ride, and you use all your travel too often or you bottom out, go to 25% sag instead. If you find, after all your normal riding, you don't touch the last 2cm of travel, go for more sag and enjoy pusher rides... I think it was one of the Fox Corporate engineers who felt you should use 100% of your travel at least once on your normal riding route... Other feel you shouldn't go close. This is all a starting point, there's loads more to learn, but this is where you can start and tune it to you. Rebound comes next, but get the pressure right first.
  17. Yeha that for sure looks like an attempt but then playing it cool once the fortuner stopped so quickly... It was dead quiet when he made the attempt and then all of a sudden cars all around and willing to stop.... Assholes..
  18. How much do you enjoy rebuilding pedals regularly? If it's on the never side of the scale - Shimano...
  19. That's a great offer man. But honestly it wouldn't sit well with me to take it up for free, and I'm not in a position right now to fairly compensate you. I would love this to be extended, even in part though, to a more respected and experienced hubber, I really think it will do wonders for your credibility and the attractiveness of your offers! Like the poster above, this is a golden opportunity, I just think you've got better ways to get it off the ground and gain momentum. Hopefully I can join in once all my personal nonsense is out of the way!
  20. Hahaha I also use "thanks for your input" as a polite **** off... But seriously. While the event mentioned was years ago, it IS unfortunately related. It's the same business model, with people being just as dependant on you as those customers were. But okay. Let's leave that in the past. Second, if the price drops are to drum up business, why not present that up front? Instead of advertising one price then dropping it, why not advertise the lower price and state that this is to drive business, Normal price is X... It just comes across less scroogey my man. The once off access is cool. I would definitely make a bigger point of this - for reals, it's your biggest selling point to this crowd. I wanna see what's so exclusive about it! Lastly, you must bear in mind we have good memories here... I don't want to see ride photos from your scheduled photo shoots - maybe invite a journalist to your rides, or even a well respected hubber to review your product and post it here, like most companies do. Your business is in embryo and we need to know that you can be trusted and deliver on what you promise... Anyway, again, best of luck bruv. It's a tough game out there.
  21. Hahaha I also use "thanks for your input" as a polite **** off... But seriously. While the event mentioned was years ago, it IS unfortunately related. It's the same business model, with people being just as dependant on you as those customers were. But okay. Let's leave that in the past. Second, if the price drops are to drum up business, why not present that up front? Instead of advertising one price then dropping it, why not advertise the lower price and state that this is to drive business, Normal price is X... It just comes across less scroogey my man. The once off access is cool. I would definitely make a bigger point of this - for reals, it's your biggest selling point to this crowd. I wanna see what's so exclusive about it! Lastly, you must bear in mind we have good memories here... I don't want to see ride photos from your scheduled photo shoots - maybe invite a journalist to your rides, or even a well respected hubber to review your product and post it here, like most companies do. Your business is in embryo and we need to know that you can be trusted and deliver on what you promise... Anyway, again, best of luck bruv. It's a tough game out there.
  22. You know man... I gotta be honest here... Ive seen the multitude of adverts you've posted, and I understand you're trying something new. But, a couple of problems stick out and you might wanna consider addressing them. One, your reputation for caring for groups of people depending on you is horrific. I can tell you now, I would have sued the absolute pants off you if you deserted me in a foreign country without food or a plan, or even an honest announcement of the reason for your departure. Second, you keep coming in with this loaded price for these 'adventures' and end up dropping pricing when attendance is poor. From my perspective, it seems you're happy to rip me off, and no one else is interested. Lastly, honestly, you don't seem to be offering anything I can't plan and do on my own with my mates for less money, less risk, and more choice and convenience. Hubbers in general are a pretty handy DIY bunch, so I don't see this being your target market. I get that your service might be great for international visitors, but your reputation and value offering is diluted every time you post on your own threads with no replies. Maybe, just maybe, some ride reports, trip videos, or similar would help build some Gees and trust in your product, and help me feel more secure that you're not gonna dump me in the desert with my bike and drive off... Use it, don't use it, but I feel like staying silent would be a disservice. Good luck man.
  23. You know man... I gotta be honest here... Ive seen the multitude of adverts you've posted, and I understand you're trying something new. But, a couple of problems stick out and you might wanna consider addressing them. One, your reputation for caring for groups of people depending on you is horrific. I can tell you now, I would have sued the absolute pants off you if you deserted me in a foreign country without food or a plan, or even an honest announcement of the reason for your departure. Second, you keep coming in with this loaded price for these 'adventures' and end up dropping pricing when attendance is poor. From my perspective, it seems you're happy to rip me off, and no one else is interested. Lastly, honestly, you don't seem to be offering anything I can't plan and do on my own with my mates for less money, less risk, and more choice and convenience. Hubbers in general are a pretty handy DIY bunch, so I don't see this being your target market. I get that your service might be great for international visitors, but your reputation and value offering is diluted every time you post on your own threads with no replies. Maybe, just maybe, some ride reports, trip videos, or similar would help build some Gees and trust in your product, and help me feel more secure that you're not gonna dump me in the desert with my bike and drive off... Use it, don't use it, but I feel like staying silent would be a disservice. Good luck man.
  24. Well, as long as the handlebars stay the same distance from the steerer on a horizontal plane, then, nothing to worry about except how *** it looks and the aero costs.. The only time handling will change on a road bike and stem changes is length. Longer stems mean more stable bike. But that's due to how far forward the handlebars are. A huge rise stem would be the same as a very long steerer but same length stem... I'm hoping I'm making sense...
  25. Well, depending on many things, but since metal can be quite flexible when you need it to be, it's possible for the metal to flex, while the paint cracks. Car paint applied badly or mixed incorrectly with hardener can have this happen very quickly, while you'll be hard pressed to find a vehicle panel that cracks of its own accord... So it's not Likely. It's not common. But it's very possible.
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