Butterbean

I get that this is awesome and all.... Buuuuuuuut... If youre a really passionate cyclist, surely, for that kinda money, youd be building something like, absolutely phenomenal. I mean, this is cool and all, being a off the bike shop floor bike, but there are so many more passionate, awe inspiring, and just downright secy bikes to build and ride than this... Maybe im missing the point. I suppose its moot anyway cause i doubt i could ever see myself buying something like this, ever. But even with that said, it just doesnt make me want it. I dont want to put it on a poster of my 15 year old self's wall. Somehow, spez manages to make bikes that you know will look outdated in 4 years.... I dunno. This just doesn't make me say "its awfully expensive, but i would spend it if i had it"...

Looks like that canned fix a flat stuff CWC sold for a while, a while back.

Using Saguaro 2.25 rear, Barzo 2.35 front. The Sag is a little too fast rolling for my riding, as I do lose rear grip on loose climbs and loose corners. The barzo is great tho and sticks super well. To date, and touching wood, I haven't had a single sidewall cut or serious puncture, so they're lasting really well. Main driver was popularity and price, and honestly I can't see myself moving away from them while they're priced like they are. Might end up with a Barzo rear too, but we'll see how it goes.

In that range, choose the ones with the best hubs... I got some Lyne Amp wheels and am incredibly impressed with how they're holding up. And of course legendary service.

Hahaha I know right? I guess the gist should have been - just cause it's been put on a part, doesn't mean mistakes can't be made... Apparently this fault was communicated to dealers but it leaves Joe DIY out to dry... I don't know Scott bikes at all, but figure if the bolt breaks at the printed torque, the manufacturer might be at fault before he shells out for a new pivot set.

Shared because I ran into this on a bike of my own. Tightened pivot bolt to printed torque using a wrench, snapped the bolt. Spoke to manufacturer and they confirmed wrong figured were printed. Recommended torque was 4nm, printed value was 10nm. Bolt replaced by the manufacturer.

Apparently on some bikes or runs of bolts, that NM print is the bolt limit, not the normal torque settings... Contact Scott dealers and see what's going on.

Why, did your parents call you S-Works?

Wannabees trails are open and easy enough for a kid for sure.

I just pinch the open side of the wheels with a rag or my old T shirts, and cycle the gears around until all the muck is off... Hasn't failed me yet and doesn't take much time or effort. Ive found it gunks up heavily when too much chain lube is applied but I'm no expert.

If you like a thinner chamois the assos aren't the way to go. The chamois is on that cusp of too much, in my opinion. I like a thin chamois too and the vermarc are great. The giordana also have a thicker chamois but unlike the assos it feels like it doesn't bunch up or get creased, so they're supremely comfortable without feeling like you've stuffed a pillow in your Gooch.

I have a selection... Vermarc MTN branded bibs. Thin chamois, great lycra and the shoulder straps are this great webbed fabric. They're a solid 9/10 for me, and I only really start feeling sore after three or four hours on the bike. Use these for training and the indoor trainer mostly, but quite happy to ride with them on the weekend. They're not flashy but they work incredibly well. Assos.. Have some of the green pad and pink pad lowest of the range ones... Still Hella expensive. They're good. The pink ones have a strange fit and I don't like the low cut front, but everything else is good. Shoulder straps on both a tree comfy, and definitely my go to shorts for very long rides. But top of the pops - giordana FRC bibs. Super quality, from the pad to the lycra and shoulder straps, it fits my body best by far and the pad is otherworldly. They're not even top of the range goirdanas but theyre incredible. Leg grippers seem fragile at first but they've held up perfectly well. I really like the seam placement on these too. I'm 125kgs on a good day at the moment, use a spez romin 155 saddle, and have my bikes fitted to me. So there's a little background - generally as the fatty I am, a bike saddle will hurt no matter what, but those bibs above do a phenomenal job of keeping my relatively comfortable.

Yeah it's a bit silly to decide who needs cream for how long and when... Personally, I weight 125 kgs, and any time on the bike longer than 30 mins dictates the need for chamois cream. Yes I use high quality bibs. Yes I have my bike fitted to me. Yes I have a saddle that fits and is wide enough for my sitbones. I still need at least a light layer to prevent friction.

Bennets baby bum cream is amazing... It is hard to wash out on the first try, it's super oily... Which is great for the ride, your Mrs might be annoyed, however. If its soft enough for a baby's ass, it should be fine on yours. I've been using it for about two years without hassle.

I'm at the point now where I tell anyone who says they're taking it that cash is king. First one with money in my hand or account will take it home. Normally, they're quite happy to just etf and collect or take delivery whenever suits them, and that suits me just fine.

I'm obviously totally unqualified to comment knowing little about either carbon, or insurance. But there are some questions to be raised with the insurer, in my opinion. First, how do they account for the voiding of the manufacturer warrantee? Will they be assuming this after the repair? Second, how does the carbon specialist ensure they use the exact type of carbon, the same type of resin, and the same layup directions and thickness to ensure frame characteristics are what you bought and paid for, and paid to insure so you would not risk those qualities? Third, from what I know about frame building, the jigs used are extremely important in lining up bearings, tubing, and frame straightness. Is the repairer able to accurately mirror these in how own environment during the repairs to make sure bearings line up perfectly, gaps are correct, and will not result in longer term damage and wear to headset or BB bearings, wheel axles and bearings, and ensuring alignment is correct for safe braking and no additional wear or shifting issues on the drivetrain? Once those are answered by both parties then the call can be made. I doubt they'll be able to answer all of those to your comfort.

Perhaps see if Eqstra would be willing to help on worst affected spots? I know they did that cradle sweep exercise a couple of years back, so likely they have the equipment and someone there passionate about cycling and advertising.

I'm not sure I understand, claren drive is the R44 between GB and rooi els.

I joined the bikehub I think in 2013... And this ad was up back then. Dudes never dropped his price.

Wannabes road crew have rides that way often, would be well worth it if you're riding in a bunch on that road. If you're alone, I find the way out from Somerset west is fine, but coming back the shoulder is minimal and you basically have cars and cliffs. It's not the most pleasant, but that being said people do tend to give loads of room.

Had a fun experience just the other day - did a quick lube service on my fox float CTD shock, and once cleaned, relubed, with float fluid in the right places, it was time to simply bring the can back up to the too threads and screw together... Struggled like a bastard trying to get the can close enough to the threads, hurt palms, etc... Until I realised the CTD switch had moved from the D to the T.... Flicked it back, and the easiest thing in the world... The silliest things...

Ha! It's not bad enough that you can still walk into a shop, be ignored, told you're wrong and don't know what you want, and just flat out lied to. And then they overcharge you for the privilege. It's so frustrating. You have such great owners and mechanics, and then the polar opposite of just ultra shitty, ultra cocky asshats.

I've found the way that works for me to remember is, with the bike on its wheels, and the Allen key/spanner perpendicular to the ground but sticking above the crank, towards the back of the bike is loose, and towards the front is tight. Both sides. I usually like to have the arm horizontal to the ground but pointing to the front. That was a I can get leverage by holding the back brake and no holding on crank arms needs to take place. Might help someone avoiding a strip.

Nah, I don't think you realise how slow some of these guys are and how quick they would be caught by the racy Bois... I really think they should start at back and not be allowed to pass a bicyclist. Again, if someone is unfit/fat/old/disabled, but riding without assistance, then anyone with assisnce shouldn't be entitled to blast past. Sit behind. If you get bored, maybe lose the motor and try it without, might be a lot more fun. And go for a skills course FFS

Doesn't seem like it. And ill be honest. Before this race I did think E bikes should be welcomed and had no issue... Until I got bothered by one. Smaller lady, on a grey Scott E bike. Overtook me on the climbs, but had zero confidence or skills in the single track sections. So I would get overtaken, then stuck behind. Eventually find a gap and overtake, just to be overtaken again and have to sit on the brakes... My opinion now is, if you're riding an E bike for medical or physical limitation reasons, you should start at the back of the group, and no passing of normal bikes allowed. If someone is ultra slow because they're also physically limited, then you should stay at the speed, unless it's wide roads or keep track. I don't feel like those with E bikes should be able to gain a super unfair advantage over those using a proper bicycle, and then making them suffer. It was so ridiculously annoying and something has to be figured out.