MoreTrails

Ones without the points go at trigger shifter/cable and derailler/cable interface. Ones with points are anywhere in between. Advise - don't cut the outer to short like i did! mines about 3mm to short and now squeaks. Have fun

Kiwi, price on that limited edition orange Summer Season same as stated before hand - around 2k?

Bump, no one with bright ideas out there? Related to the crankset of course...

Hear Hear

Ok, wierd....don't know why that loaded twice from 2 different people...

Ok, wierd....don't know why that loaded twice from 2 different people...

I am keen to build a classic compact crankset 42/29 on a standard triple ring spider. I am using a LX/Hone crankset Anything I need to be aware of? Any advise that needs to be parted with? Off the top of my head I would imagine that the spacing of chainrings on the crankset is quite crucial.... Shot ouen's

I am keen to build a classic compact crankset 42/29 on a standard triple ring spider. I am using a LX/Hone crankset Anything I need to be aware of? Any advise that needs to be parted with? Off the top of my head I would imagine that the spacing of chainrings on the crankset is quite crucial.... Shot ouen's

And the Kore stem and seat post. Didn't they bring these out in ano purple towards the end?

That bike is MINT, haven't seen one of those in ages. I remember those Tioga disks, laced with a 1 piece kevlar cord over the kevler disk weave. The owner of Knysna Cycle works used to race one back in the day, that thing you could hear coming from a mile away with the amount of reasonance it use to make!!! They also used to dis integrate in spectacular fashion when the kevlar cord broke... Do you guys remember the Manitou fork Johnny T used to race on that bike - machine from billet alu...it looked so cool. Man I wanted one of those things! That and the Mountain Cycles San Andreas full sus bike....

Yeah, another vote for the green!!!

Yeah Rock, you said it!!! I am with you man Slate Grey frame, ano green wheels. As for the tongue in cheek carbon - noted! Brain not firing on all cylinders - than again never really is!!! G-Spot, built just below Eden with some super smooth lines and radical over 90 degree berms....Think I might have sneaked a stealth ride in there, was under the imoression it was a private trail, but I am super keen to go ride it again. Otherwise Delvera this weekend? All welcome

cbrunsdon - its never worth it controllin yourself when it comes to a Morewood - resistence is futile!!! Just buy one and you will understand.... You will also be better off for it, the bike that punchs above its weight, is locally designed and hand made and is worth every single penny!!!

You playing with your bike again...? We must hook up for a ride again. Before you take it all apart and can't ride!!!

I dig the grey and the red, or maybe the grey with blue. The stealth black on black has been done - try something new? What about the grey with green wheels - don't I9 make green bits and pieces? And if you can get the grey to be matt and the rest glossy then you smiling! Blockhouse - carbon fibre on bike like that is a sin mate! I don't think that bike is aimed to go anywhere but down - at speed - rider screaming like a kid with a new toy!

You can do the work yourself as erikt123 has indicated - Mavic's are pretty simple to service. But you need and all the right tools otherwise its just a mission. Use Finishline green to lube the freehub and nylon washer, thats unless you have Mavic Freehub oil or mineral oil lieing around. About 5-10 drops will sort you out. And one of on the nylon washer. However if the nylon washer os worn you are going to have to replace the freehub body. Check this by grabbing the cassette while still on the freehub and see if you can wiggle it around. There will be some play to allow it to spin but if its loose with alot of play it is time to replace. Unfortunatly that washer is Mavics biggest failing if it is not serviced regularly.

Hey Mongoose dude, glad to hear the LBS got your wheel sorted! Have a lekker race...

The fact that there is a claim of hitting 2 cyclists is scary, but to see this guy Ken has now gone and bought a 2m cattle prod to stir up the situation - well thats crazy. Cradleresident, I can understand the frustration of the bike races and not being able to move through the area. But one this is for sure: YOU 'FRIEND' KEN IS RIGHT WANKER AND DESERVES WHAT EVER COMES HIS WAY!

OK, i'm old...

BMC should be able to sort you out - 021 448 4692. Speak to Jared or Kevin

Droo, maybe time to put a stiffer spring in the fork - your riding is coming on and that soft spring is not healthy for loony stuff you doing... Enjoy the Manitou - not as supple but eats those big bumps. You may have to fiddle with the rear shock - that Manitou is tall so puts a bit more pressue on the rear shock which then tends to blow through it travel if soft

Please retake photo - details are unclear and partially masked... Also portrait layout would best as it would include a full size version of the center picture on the wall with the VERY good looking legs Never pixelate a bottom bracket - thats cheating. However a small yellow star might be more in keeping with a retro "Scope" feel

Maybe strip the bike again and the problem will disappear??? Buy a mtb and then you can sell your problem... * hat coat door - SLAM*

Yup' date=' at this years epic. [/quote'] Saw some of the ladies racing the Cobalts at the WC in Maritzburg on thier 4x bikes - so I suppose if you smooth then they will last... Colours are specific to the type of riding you doing as Crow mentioned: Blue (Cobalt) are for XC Orange (Iodine) are for All mountain Green (Sage) and Red (???) are for downhill