IdeJongh

Body fat and BMI are not 100% related so cant compare. BMI is influence by build, muscle mass, ect etc. I look like a stick insect and my BMI was at 24 for years, at a health survey at work they classed me overweight...then the rest of the office refused to participate. True body fat is the best indicator, and the resistivity measurements by the gym equipment is a fair estimation but still not 100% correct, so don't take it too serious.

Ive seen worse marked routes and better marked routes, but nothing really to complain about. A lot to praise though, nice fun route, singletrack was sublime, the second lap we when through there at pant pooping speed. But the guyz should really use SS timing, worth the extra cash! Fun day out!

Entered this morning, so amped!! Now its ass on the seat time!

Giggling at the typical Hub replies. Thanks TNT. But the "" works. Thanks for this, learnt something new today

A bomb really works just as well, but making this difficult is the combination - - Non-UST tyre - Non-UST rim - No rim strips Which is why the bmx tube might be needed.

Oh as EttieneB says, you're using tape not strips. Eish. Works for some, I dont like. Where is it actually leaking, the rim or the valve/spokes? If you can't get it to seal, my suggestion is to go the 20" BMX tube route, have dont it many times and works like a bomb (pardon the pun )

Its purely because you want to press the tyre flat when inflating so the expanding air presses directly onto the sidewalls, pressing them into the rim. I've found, and purely my opinion, not doing the you're more likely to see gaps form between the tyre and the sidewall. As to the solidifying effect of the sealant - thats why I use OKO, doesnt do it at all, and is thicker, and contains various shapes of particles that help seal any puncture you get. Also doesn't drip out when rotating the wheel beforehand.

First time I did it, I thought the tyre was exploding, nearly got a bloody heart attack.

Used Xmarks non-UST many times in conversions and they work just fine. The are prone to sidewall cuts, so just keep an eye out for that.

Another tip - after youve assembled the whole lot (stans in, tires on, walls soaped, told kids to go play somewhere else) Hold onto the skewer, place the wheel on the floor pressing down so the rim pinches the tire, roll the wheel all the way around a couple of times, its distributes the stans, and bends the sidewalls into the correct positions. You probably know the rest but what the heck - place wheel in the ground with valve at the bottom, again press down on the rim and quickly open up bomb. Should hear the bead 'cracking' into place.

Wow dude, what a bike hey! If I were into all this tar riding that might have tickled my fancy. Great price. For the lady - too big. But good luck with the sale.

Thanks for the feedback so far, will add the Giant to the list. She's not racing competitively no, but looking to find something in her budget (wish that was my budget )

Hi Folks After we've gone through the normal, roady vs mounty bashing, "ride them all and decide what you want" etc replies - Question 1: Please shoot suggestions for road bikes between R30k and R40k? Its for a lady I know who wants to buy new. Ive looked at a few and will make suggestions, but my knowledge of the differences in the various frames is LIMITED to say the least. Question 2: She queried about deep section wheels. When do they start adding benefit? Only at higher avg speeds? Will they screw you in hilly races? (considering that most SA road races are relatively flat Shops are welcome to pitch. And out of the norm ideas always welcome. Thanks folks! (Bikes Ive looked at that seem to fit the bill - Pinarello FP3 Cannondale Synapse Eddy Merckx EMX-3)

1. Bend your arms lowering your upper body and sit on the tip of your saddle. This shifts your center of mass forward. 2. Practice pedaling a fluid circular strokes. By 'pumping' your legs up and down you apply too much uneven force. By applying constant force your front is less likely to lift AND added bonus, your back wheel is less likely to slip. Enjoy!

Awesome article about it - In summary its a function of your height and weight and obviously how much you've trained it - so 1. Loose some kg's 2. Practice it 3. Hurt the rest of us on the way up Sit / Stand climb article

No worries man, enjoy learning about the sport. What you CAN push to is your max and like mampara said, best is to do a test (proper warmup, progressively harder hill repeats, or something of the sort). What you SHOULD push to depends on many things - - Your fitness, we just read of a guy dying from a heart attack because he was perhaps pushing to hard (with respect could have been other issues as well). - Your goal during the ride, are you doing base training, tech stuff, intervals or having fun, its all different

Plus here is some literature on how to utilize your HR zones for training - Joe Friel Blog - Heart Rate Zones

Check this out for a broad coverage of the topic - Wikipedia - Heart Rate

Wow, loaded question...hmmm, let start with - 1. How old are you? 2. How fit are you? 3. Too high for what? Fat burning / Riding / Racing? There are a lot of variables here to understand first.

Feb is close dude...hahaha

Word of encouragement for all the okes picking up some weight - especially if you've hit the gym last week for the first time in a while, it is expected that you will gain some weight initially as your muscles retain some water during the exercise. Keep at it, the kgs will start melting soon!

Good luck to all the okes going strong, the first couple of weeks are the toughest but you and your body get into a routine and then it goes much easier! And you will never look back! @Charl a note of the PhedraCut - as far as I know was designed for low cardio gym people (typical weight lifters) as it contains a hormone that boosts your HR pushing you into the fat burning zone during normal gymming activity. Which can make it dangreous for us cyclists while out on the trail/road. I could be wrong and anybody with more info i more than welcome to correct me, I'd rather not take the chance.

Thats random, I can open it up...weird. Cant post the excel sheet for some reason, when I try and upload it fails. Will still email to those who want.

Hey folks - I see someone requested I pop the sheet on here - If you have any questions on it just shout. How it works – • Enter actual and target weights with the time frame • Select your activity level (excluding exercise) (it’s a drop down) which will impact on your base output, as you say your normal energy output for ‘doing nothing’. • Fill in the input and exercise with the corresponding kCal and copy the balance to the 3rd sheet for the balance of that day. The kCal target is based on a pound of body fat equating to 3500kCal, and its divided by 0.45 (pound to kg) so is actually nearly doubled to get to kCal per kg of body fat. In other words to loose a pound you must have a 3500kCal deficit and to loose a kg you must have a (3500/0.45) 7777kCal deficit. Basic kCal balance.zip

Did this a while back, do it once off and then makes for easy lunch. Make healthy salsa (chopped tomatoe, onion, greenpepper, seasoning with a bit of lemon juice) and freeze small portions Then in the morning grab a portion + tuna + low fat yogurt and mix it all up for lunch. Yummy, quick and very nutitious!