100Tours

Also these - clamps for formula R1 levers

Barrel adjusters - any takers?

I have switched over to the Shimano trail pedals on my MTB and they are awesome (Shimano MTB cleat with a wide platform). Personally I feel that you can put more power through the bigger pedal (ie no shoe flex/wobble), and there is no cleat pressure that you might get from smaller pedals. I'd say go for it. you won't look back.

No - I've had old units replaced at end of life at a discount from Garmin. Well out of warrantee. My Garmin history started in 2014 with a second hand Garmin520 bought on the hub, replaced by Garmin for nominal cost - about R700 - when the battery died, then replaced again with a 520plus (R900) when I damaged the replacement in a fall. The 520 plus eventually tired (battery) and they sold me a discounted 530 to replace it (R1200). My first 530 I broke when I caught it in a slammed boot lid (R1500), my second one expired after a particularly hot 44degC ride in the Karoo (replaced for free). That is 5 new or reconditioned devices over 9 years for R4300 (plus maybe R1500 for the initial hub purchase). Maybe some of them should have lasted a bit longer, but I don't think any other supplier offers anything like this. Most of the complaints seem to be that they don't want to support swapping out your own batteries - same as any other electronics manufacturer.

Does Wahoo offer replacements in South Afica? Personally I've only ever had great service from Garmin (even if I have to endure not having access to my GPS for 10 days while they're assessing and replacing it 😛)

If you're lucky you will find a 700cx40mm spare tube, but otherwise I tend to use the narrowest 29er tube I can find (1.8" or 1.9" if possible). I also think it is important to use a slime tube. you've just had a flat on tubeless, chances are your tyre is full of tiny thorns and glass, a slime tube is just so much safer to prevent the second flat.

For a MTB, I've never thought it worth it. How much does aero matter on your mtb rides? If you are aiming to win races or you're riding a lot of district roads then maybe it does. I'd be curious to see figures on how different the CdA is on this vs a normal stem/bar setup for an upright mtb setup (the standard nest of cables is still up front on the new bar anyway). For a road bike I'm much more of a fan. You're more likely to have days out in a headwind or just to hold higher speeds for longer. Also the road bike will have the advantage of having more room for a proper wing profile on the horizontal part of the bar.

I think that 1x is more damaging/more demanding for chains than 2x. i.e. 1x requires a wider range of out-of-line movement. I used to run Campagnolo chains on everything, and they were brilliant. But they're expensive, so I have recently experimented with KMC. This was a mistake, they have worn out at very low mileage. I'm hoping for better results on the 1110 SRAMs. I haven't used SRAM chains sine I ran 9s groupsets, but they seem to be a good cost/durability balance.

If you can take a picture I might be able to answer that 😄 But yes it is a 'standard' Shimano cable end. your LBS should have one lying around

something like this -

If the issue is mud jamming up the steel cable inside the cable housing you might try this bodge.. - Find a cable stop with a long 'tail' (basically sheaths the steel inner cable after it leaves the housing. - insert steel cable through cap - fill (inside cap) with a blob of silicone and push this all the way through the tail. - cure. The cable will cut through the silicone, but it will fit so tightly that mud doesn't get in. Or you can still go 1x, but that's kinda expensive

In a 2x drivetrain you generally only use a little more than half the cluster with each chainring - so you have maybe 2x7 = 14 ratios that you regularly use with a 2x11 drivetrain. (vs 12 ratios in a 1x12 drive) You're trying to solve 3 issues really - The range of gears available - SRAM Eagle has a 520% range on a 10-52 cassette, Classified are advertising 534% as their top end option. The size of the steps between the gears - and 2x drivetrains do have an advantage here. Eagle will have steps of 15-20% increases between gears, Classified will have maybe 10%-15% steps. Weight - and Eagle is proabably lighter? I haven't checked.

I would head out via Krugersdorp/ontdekkers, and then down sterkfontein - it is about 10km longer, but probably a nicer ride.

Planetary would be more efficient than a front deraileur caked with cane field mud, but thats about it.

to be fair to Classified they have come up with an innovative solution to address the limits of 11s drivetrains. But SRAM came out with 12s, and that mostly addressed those issues anyway, and all the okes who could afford Classified went 12s long ago.

they have hidden an extra (planetary gear) 'gearbox' in between the cassette and the hub. you can either ride this 'fixed' which then works like a normal 1x setup, or 'free' where it adds a step-down ratio between the cassette rotation and the hub rotation (cassette rotates faster than the hub). This acts like being in the small chainring gear. But to Hambini's point you then have an efficiency loss in the new step-down gear. I think he used 97% efficient for the 'fixed' arrangement, and 97% of 97% for the 'free' setting. the extra ~3% loss is about 10w out of your 400W peak power output

Expensive and less efficient? (although once you're in the mud I guess the efficiency thing falls away). I'm sure you'll see a few around, but I suspect you cover the same ground with a 12s or a 13s drivetrain (assuming no-one is going 2x13) - I doubt you get much in added gear range or tighter ratios between 2x11 on a classified hub vs a 1x13.

I have drilled T6 aluminium and titanium frames for bottle cages and Di2 cables with no issue, and even taken a grinder to the Alu frame to take off some unwanted mounts. The Ti bike has done well over a thousand k's on gravel, and about 4000 on tar for the Alu frame. My drilling approach is to start with a small dremel to make a pilot indent and then follow with a larger drill. I also prefer to use a cutting paste on the drill to keep things cooler. Just don't slip when you start the hole, and as everyone says, at your own risk.

spare grub screw holder?

They're open before 5 on weekdays. I think you'll find them open on weekends. Perhaps call them?

- box from box man. I think you can keep the rear wheel on in these boxes. R220 - remove front wheel, seatpost, and handlebar off of stem. Pack in box, making sure they loose bits wont rub. usually I tape them to the frame somewhere. - deliver to the courier guy depot (this is cheaper). Recent shipping was around R700, but depends on weight

I did them through Kim at Carbon Bike repair in Northriding - bike ridden by my wife R1600 bought me these plus a set of Lefty decals in August 2020. I'm not sure if there was anything else in that order.

I'd just ask the Courier guy - it is cheapest if you take it to their depot. Guess about R600

How do you feel about purple 🤣 I had these done in jhb. Will need to look up where