100Tours

Garmin will almost always (in my experience) do a 'service exchange' - i.e. take it in, get them to assess it, and they will most likely sell you a new/reconditioned unit at a significant discount. I have had numerous good experiences with this process.

I do too - difference is I've rolled a tyre off the rim before 😅

I was just about to say don't try this with non-tubeless tyres 😗 My approach would be tubeless rim tape topped off with electrical tape orange seal, or even the cheap green tyre sealant from sportsmans BUT, proper tubeless tyres..

Tandems are very accommodating on the back - they have shore rear seat tubes (i.e. can take a range of seatpost lengths), and the stoker mostly just needs to be stable. We ride a L/S cannondale - I'm a 56 frame usually, and my wife is a 48.

I am busy doing the same thing, give or take for shining up spokes you might try scrubbing with aluminium foil and water/coke. I also find that builders 'all metal polysh' does a good job, although its a bit more expensive. the polish works well with a polishing wheel. I also use a polishing wheel on the dremel for the tiny bits, but that too is a pricey exercise. Also re-chroming seems cheap once you have dealt with any surface pitting. The process I have followed here for a chrome fork has been strip chrome (using an electroplating business), then sand/polish with the drill, then back to the platers for new chrome.

it's about time. this is the Giro after all

I am amazed by what this team is doing. No money wasted on yesterday's heros, just riders with potential achieving awesome results. I want to know the story of the brains behind it and I wish this had been DiData (rather than hosting Twitter wars with the 'missile).

I have more than one bike, sometimes I even have friends ride them. I've never imagined that I'm spending that money on anyone else - if someone wants to come for a ride I assume that they're investing time in me (no one has ever asked me to pay for their time. I'd probably say no to that 😁🤯). Having a laugh - Do you have more chairs at home than the family can all sit in? or teaspoons? Are they worth it?

I'm on your side here - they are behaving legally, but they're being inconsiderate. That's probably the issue underlying most road user conflict.

I assume that's in the UK? Bad news is you're going to get done for calling the truck wide - I didn't get to your second para even :-&

probably a few 10,000 km's in the mud before you wear through 🤔 If you ever do that you should have the rear triangle chromed and mounted as a trophy to your powerful legs.. You'll be fine. however if you are really worried you should get a new bike just in case.

Try it with 700c gravel wheels. Should work

My old(er) Campag rims are 2-way fit, which cannot take a new tubeless tyre - they are just impossible to fit. Perhaps something to be aware of. Try fitting the tyre before you tape the rims. Other than that you should be fine.

I eventually bought a 142mm adapter for my Hunt wheelset and carefully trimmed it to fit (over a few iterations). While shims would have been an option (if I recall the adjustments were 1x 1.7mm and 1x 0.8mm) they also needed to match the external diameter spec to fit into the frame cutouts. Also losing a shim while e.g. changing a flat seemed both inevitable and a little disappointing. From another site - SCS moved the cassette 2,5mm inward on the hub to be able to get a decent chainline with short chainstays. But with moving the cassette 2,5mm inward and at the same time use 12x135 it ended up with aftermarket wheels being an issue as the cassettes would touch the frame, or once you got the cassette side right, then the disk would touch on the other side.. The Diverge launched with a 415mm rear stay - newer models have a 425mm stay and regular hubs.

Specialised briefly produced a brand spanking new-and-unique rear hub standard for disks called SCS on the Diverge, Roubaix and the Crux a few years ago. While most gravel/road disk hubs were 135mm wide, SCS was 137.5mm in width. i.e. the extra 2.5mm basically indistinguishable to the naked eye - you didn't even need a different length thru axle. There was no branding on these frames that might give away their engineering brilliance either. The difference in frame clearance off of the disk itself was about 1.5mm. Then they sold their bikes with an unremarkable in-house wheelset that begged to be upgraded. You can just imagine my surprise..

This is not meant to be a bike fit discussion - more I'm learning about bike handling, and trying to make good decisions about how to put together better bikes. If bike fit is what you're after have a look for the RAD method on youtube - that's my new favourite bike sizing method. Anyway on to choosing better geometry - and this probably matters most for gravel or monstercross type builds where you're combining unmatched frames and forks, or perhaps just shopping for new toys. I haven't yet figured out how to calculate the results - I am of the school of 'fit it and see'. The big 3 measures are seemingly rear stay length, fork trail, and BB drop - is there anything else that matters? So I did some rough measuring on a few bikes that I enjoy - as follows. Fork trail Stays BB drop track 45 400 75 road 1 65 400 75 road 2 70 400 75 gravel 100 420 55 hardtail 29er 150 440 55 Which explains a lot - check that tiny trail number on the track bike (not like you ever need to turn corners). Trail on the mtb is a bit overstated 'coz I measured that without anyone sitting on the bike to compress the shock, but this makes a pretty cool series of measures. Very pleasing to an engineering eye. Also my gravel bike is a 26" frame running 700c wheels with a 700c fork - so it's a bit of a weird one, but that's a lot of fork trail and not a lot of BB drop. Having said that it still rides really well and holds its head very confidently on bumpy gravel, and it has tons of pedal clearance - but its probably a bad idea for bunch riding, the steering is decidedly sluggish. I'm also writing off any plans to put a longer fork on the MTB - I'm already pushing those trail limits. Anyway an interesting exercise - I'm keen to hear if anyone else thinks about these things 🤯

I have Shigura's on both my gravel bike and my tandem - Magura calipers paired with Ultegra road levers. They are absolutely fantastic and they've run probably 2000km so far. Magura makes a tandem length brake hose for added happiness. I'm running Magura e-bike level 203mm disks on the tandem and SRAM 160mm centreline's on the gravel bike. Big plus's are no rubbing due to Magura's magnetic brake pad attachment (keeps the pads vertical rather than Shimnao's angled spring solution), and 0.2mm greater clearance on the disk. Lots of power and no complications so far.

I am keeping myself busy with a little rebuild project and quite excited about it so far - can anyone help with the following: 1. Someone to do hard chroming in Jo'burg? the frame stays are ok, but the fork chrome is gone 2. Vintage 32h rims. the front is a Mavic red label, but the rear rim is some australian improvisation. I'd either buy a single or a pair depending on what comes up. 3. White cable housing? brake and gear Thanks for any help

The best option is to divert cycling traffic onto any other route - although I realise that this may be impossible. Even if you can divert bicycles off of the main road only for limited sections this would allow you to have more tightly governed and signposted 'mixed use zones' in between the zones of badly behaved car traffic. European developments often use bike route turn off's to take bike traffic onto a secondary route for a few '00m before they merge back again.

So where would I find a pair of down tube cable stops? Something for a project I am working on. happy to pay.

Firstly congratulations. You slowly build a pyramid - 80 built on a few 60's, and then 100's built on a few 80's. One day when you look back you it is marvellous to see how these come together. For nutrition, my personal secret weapon is taking a enduro shake from pace and power the night before. That helps keep your blood sugar pretty stable, and keeps you fuelled well into the ride. If you start hungry/empty then there's never enough time to catch up. On ride day have a light breakfast, and eat something familiar to you. For me this is usually yoghurt/muesli or oats. But go with something that you'd usually eat in the mornings. On the ride a few fast bars, fruit cake, maybe a gel. just to keep the bonking at bay. My other fall back is brown rolls with chicken mayo (when I get tired of bars), or cheese and jam. Just something thats not too dry so you can munch it with a dry mouth.

That is the fault of your lube. Use a drier lube and wipe off the excess before riding - it will stay clean longer.

I would second this. I've been very pleased with bikes I have found second hand.

*stoker face

Ghetto opinion.. I get really good results with a wet wipe 😗 Wash with soap and water. rub off any remaining gunk with a wet wipe. 1 wet wipe = 1 clean chain. I do use a beautician-style wax melter from time to time if the chain needs some extreme lubing.